Help....... re: wine stoppers
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Come on, Paul. How expensive can a piece of wood be if it measured 2"X 2" X 24"? If someone wanted to make up a nice piece of walnut that size he could glue three selected 3/4 boards face to face and re-saw (band saw or rip) them to 2", of just use the piece as a 2 1/4" X 2 1/4" X 24" - mount it on the lathe and turn to your desired shape. Just think. You could get 10 or so bottle corks out of a piece like that. At even $6.00 per bd. ft. (and using 4" boards) the cost of this would be somewhere around 12 bucks. That's a minor cost compared to the metal parts.
I'm not a seasoned lathe person, but I didn't think anyone uses a tail center when making plates or bowls. I thought they use a face plate or a chuck! Just slide the headstock all the way to the left and turn away.
I'm not a seasoned lathe person, but I didn't think anyone uses a tail center when making plates or bowls. I thought they use a face plate or a chuck! Just slide the headstock all the way to the left and turn away.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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I use the tailstock to round the material and get a tenon on so I can grab it in a chuck. I was thinking of more much more exotic woods where a small piece cost me $20.
The metal parts from Shopsmith were less the $10 and the one from Parkard is $14. Maybe if I had more skill I would be able to figure out other ways to do this. For now I follow what I was taught from older turners here in Portland. Every turning starts with the tailstock supporting the work.
The metal parts from Shopsmith were less the $10 and the one from Parkard is $14. Maybe if I had more skill I would be able to figure out other ways to do this. For now I follow what I was taught from older turners here in Portland. Every turning starts with the tailstock supporting the work.
tailstock extension pictures
Just FYI- I took pictures of the gap between the drive center and the live center on my 520, using both standard and universal tool rests, with and without the Packard Woodworks MT2 extension. Hope the pix come out OK, I'm a newbie at this.
Standard tool rest, no extension, 3 1/2" gap (quill fully extended)
Standard tool rest with extension, no gap (quill not fully extended, either!)
Universal tool rest, no extension, 6" gap (quill fully extended)
Universal tool rest with extension, 2" gap (quill fully extended)
Exotic wood wine stopper blanks are usually just 2-3" long, so the tailstock extension lets you add a tenon for a chuck while turning between centers. Then you can do the rest of the turning on the chuck, if you want.
Gary
Standard tool rest, no extension, 3 1/2" gap (quill fully extended)
Standard tool rest with extension, no gap (quill not fully extended, either!)
Universal tool rest, no extension, 6" gap (quill fully extended)
Universal tool rest with extension, 2" gap (quill fully extended)
Exotic wood wine stopper blanks are usually just 2-3" long, so the tailstock extension lets you add a tenon for a chuck while turning between centers. Then you can do the rest of the turning on the chuck, if you want.
Gary
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greitz wrote:Just FYI- I took pictures of the gap between the drive center and the live center on my 520, using both standard and universal tool rests, with and without the Packard Woodworks MT2 extension. Hope the pix come out OK, I'm a newbie at this.
Gary
Pictures are great, and with the chuck adding a few inches this is a perfect solution. If I ever want to turn something really small between centers (or more importantly align the centers) I can use the Packard extender and the two Shopsmith extenders. When I get mine I will post some pictures. I think this adds a lot of flexibility with the universal tool rest which really limits your turning ability small items with an extension.
Thanks for all the help
I just ordered the #2 MT to #2 MT extension from Packard.
Hi,smredleg wrote:I just ordered the #2 MT to #2 MT extension from Packard.
Just used my extension and found out the hard way that there are some issues with this and the shopsmith parts.
As it turns out the shopsmith parts (at least the ones I have) do not have a tang. So once you put them into the extender you have an issue getting them back out. As you know they make a piece called a drift that is a wedge shaped piece that goings in to the slot and it hits the tang and out pops your removable piece........ so what happens when you don't have that tang??? Well the two parts get stuck together... san the method used to normal seperate them, the drift falls though with nothing to touch.
So am I the only one who noticed this????
If you have and have a solution please post... I have them apart but I have a feeling not everyone has the same tools I do... I will post some pictures later today or soon....
Ed
Sorry it took me so long to get back to this.
First the pictures:
http://new.photos.yahoo.com/elv60504@sbcglobal.net/album/576460762332474015
EDIT:
New location of pictures is at:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/12199425@N ... 718314614/
(11/28/07)
The "problem" I am seeing is that the shopsmith tail stock parts do not have (nor do they need) a tang at the end of the MT2. If you look at the picture DSCF1393 you can see the shopsmith live center on the left and what the tang looks like on the right.
When you insert the live center into the 3" extension the hole where the drift goes is empty as see in photo DSCF1459. The picture is not to great but anyway it shows no part of the live center...... so when you insert the drift it drops through as they is nothing to hit.
I ended up using a "fork" that is normally used for tie rod ends (think auto) to seperate them.
How come I seem to be the only one that has seen this???
Ed
First the pictures:
http://new.photos.yahoo.com/elv60504@sbcglobal.net/album/576460762332474015
EDIT:
New location of pictures is at:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/12199425@N ... 718314614/
(11/28/07)
The "problem" I am seeing is that the shopsmith tail stock parts do not have (nor do they need) a tang at the end of the MT2. If you look at the picture DSCF1393 you can see the shopsmith live center on the left and what the tang looks like on the right.
When you insert the live center into the 3" extension the hole where the drift goes is empty as see in photo DSCF1459. The picture is not to great but anyway it shows no part of the live center...... so when you insert the drift it drops through as they is nothing to hit.
I ended up using a "fork" that is normally used for tie rod ends (think auto) to seperate them.
How come I seem to be the only one that has seen this???
Ed
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reible wrote:How come I seem to be the only one that has seen this???
Ed
I am not using a Shopsmith Live center with it yet. I don't have a drift (never heard of one before today), the live center I have has a tang but without knowing about the drift I was going to use a big screwdriver to separate the parts.
Where do you get a drift? Search of the Web and eBay for "Drift Pin" do yield some odd results (NSFW) but no Drift.
paulmcohen wrote:I am not using a Shopsmith Live center with it yet. I don't have a drift (never heard of one before today), the live center I have has a tang but without knowing about the drift I was going to use a big screwdriver to separate the parts.
Where do you get a drift? Search of the Web and eBay for "Drift Pin" do yield some odd results (NSFW) but no Drift.
Hi,
They come with some drill presses and I have seen them with lathe packages... machine shops use them as a lot of the larger drill bits use this method. If you have a local store that sells these type tools then they might help you. Also note they come in different sizes so the one you want will most likely have a 2 stamped on it for MT2.
I did a quick search and found that grizzly has them, only a $1.75 but the postage is $7.70.... ouch! They call them a drift key. They picture a set but for the price I think you only get one... when you blow up the picture you see they are showing a 1 to 4 set and the price is for the 2 size.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/searchresults.aspx?q=drift+key&submit.x=0&submit.y=0
Anyway that is the story of that.
Ed
SS live center removal from Packard's taper extension
I'm awaiting my SS 4" chisel rest arrival today. I had my 510 ready to go when I started reading the problem of extracting the live center. I foned Packard, and explained the problem. Their slimline revolving center #110405 has an extra long taper that extends about 3/16" into the lower opening. Should make it easier to drift out if I want too. What the hell... another $50. But this hobby is great and don't have to lie to my bride, like it did when I owned my sailboat(s). "Dear, I need to get a larger tactical compass." Never told her I needed 2 @ $200+. a pop.
Got back last week from Evansville, IN only to get another 7-1/2 of really wet snow. The snow thrower is off the tractor and I had to hand shovel that stuff.
Wayne
Milwaukee
Got back last week from Evansville, IN only to get another 7-1/2 of really wet snow. The snow thrower is off the tractor and I had to hand shovel that stuff.
Wayne
Milwaukee