How to Adjust for Drift on the Bandsaw

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Wed Feb 18, 2009 5:00 pm

YOu know at the first and last traveling academy I attended they showed how to adjust out drift. I remember them resawing 4 inch wood cutting a thickness that you could see light behind. I don't remember everything but I remember thinking all that they are doing in outlined in the Bandsaw setup manual that comes with the bandsaw and in PTWFE.

I know all the current magazines talk drift, and most Bandsaw fences are built to adjust for drift, but I also know what I saw. The adjusted the Bandsaw to remove all drift and used the mitre gauge captured in the cast iron mitre slots as a fence.

I can still see the wood they held up to the light and seeing the light coming through it.

Len · Post by **Len** » Thu Feb 19, 2009 9:20 pm

Ed, Rick Davis did that in our class and I could not believe what my eyes saw! That band saw went on my wish list before the class was over. Got the thin scrap of wood, came home and showed SWMBO and she said ALMOST nothing when the band saw arrived!

calver · Post by **calver** » Fri Feb 20, 2009 6:16 pm

Has anyone tried using the Kreg bandsaw with the ShopSmith.

Dave C.

calver · Post by **calver** » Fri Feb 20, 2009 6:17 pm

Sorry I meant Kreg band saw fence

cincinnati10 · Post by **cincinnati10** » Mon Mar 02, 2009 7:16 am

Wow! I was wondering if it were possible to slice wood paper thin on this saw. I saw it done on a $3000 Laguna with their driftmaster fence and wanted one, but can't get it into my budget just yet.

I don't need paper thin veneers, just that consistency of cut. Now to attempt it with my SS.

cincinnati10 · Post by **cincinnati10** » Mon Mar 02, 2009 7:34 am

calver wrote:Has anyone tried using the Kreg bandsaw fence with the ShopSmith.

Dave C.

I have not, but the temptation is there. I talked with Kreg extensively about it. I am considering drilling the edges of the cast iron table for the mounting brackets. I may need to fabricate a special bracket or split the rail to change the bandsaw blade. Otherwise you have to remove the rail each time you change the blade. Also I wanted to builld a short extension table and extend the excess rail to the right of the table and not to the left as shown in the Kreg photos. It seems I would need to support the rear of the fence.

I will call Kreg again today to get the rail and fence dimensions. It is designed for a 14" bandsaw. But I feel confident it can be modified to work on the SS.

I found the fence on sale last night for $90 including a free resaw attachment. Add the micro adjust for $15 and shipping is free.

I'm tempted.

iclark · Post by **iclark** » Mon Mar 02, 2009 2:31 pm

Dave,

with the iron table, had you considered the Magswitch products:
either the Mag Jig to attach the fence to the table or one of their mag fences instead of the Kreig?

http://magswitch.com.au/aus/component/c ... oodworking

I haven't tried them with the aluminum tables (of course) but they seem like an interesting option.

not made in USA, but not China either. I've seen some of the line at Woodcraft. there is a distributors list on the website.

Ivan

Len · Post by **Len** » Mon Mar 02, 2009 4:02 pm

cincinnati10 wrote:Wow! I was wondering if it were possible to slice wood paper thin on this saw. I saw it done on a $3000 Laguna with their driftmaster fence and wanted one, but can't get it into my budget just yet. I don't need paper thin veneers, just that consistency of cut. Now to attempt it with my SS.

It was a 1/32" piece of pine from a band saw I watched Rick Davis cut in November 2007. I kept it just to make sure, brought it home and showed SWMBO. Within a year I had a band saw. One could see light though it! Now one-ten-thousandths? Seeing is believing.

rkh2 · Post by **rkh2** » Mon Mar 02, 2009 5:24 pm

calver

In response to your question about the Kreg Bandsaw Fence. Yes, I purchased it over a year ago and have been very satisfied with it. It can me mounted to the aluminum table with out any issues. There is no problem with making blade changes and they can be done with everything mounted to the table. If you have the older cast iron table, like cincinnati10 mentioned, there is modifications that need to be done. Like Len mentioned, I also watched Mike Cobb, one of the ex-TA instructors cut a piece of wood thin enough to see light come through it. It's probably not a necessity to have but sure is nice and right now I see it is on sale, but there may be a waiting period for it. I will give it a thumbs up.