Papa: Here is the long answer to your question]http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/prod ... e_1_10.pdf[/url] The Answer is on pages 6,7 and one line on page 8. These manuals are available from Shopsmith.papahammer8 wrote:thanks Dusty have followed Nicks instuctions . but a lil confusing. is the high speed position at the top of sheave rim or is it the low speed.
Speed Control and Frightening Noises
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Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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papahammer8
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- Location: lafayette alabama
Dusty yes i have opened her up. it is on low speed setting and my belt is a 1/8th below top of sheaves. have ran her up and down . it adjust smoothly. it's just i c the illistration nick sent us it looks like i should be at high speed when belt is at top of control sheaves. think i am seeing this backwards.which makes since to me cause i was shaping when i heard the grinding noise . it was control sheave hitting thee set screw the set screw was lose .if i am at high speed the sheave is at it's widest hitting the set screw. sorry about my typing not the best at it to much sawdust on the ol brain. thanks dusty.
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papahammer8
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Sorry PAPA! That's all I know too! Just start over and slowly understand and go through the instructions. If I remember correctly, it took me several tries to get it right. Now (after a couple of times) setting speed is a snap! You will find the same. After you finally get it set the first time, you will feel real satisfied with your skill. Don't give up - Your carpenter's skill will come through!papahammer8 wrote:Chuck all i know is to remove speed control and start over . thanks papahammer
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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papahammer8
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- Location: lafayette alabama
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BobRepairs
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- Location: Reno, NV
Replacing the Speed Dial - My experience
Nick - Over the years have found that when this dial has been replaced by a DIY it generally comes loose or gets strppped again.
When putting on the dial you should make sure the spring is seated correctly on the plate, between the marks, and the recess in the shaft is aligned so that you can place the dial with the wrench already in the set screw on the shaft. To tighten the screw, you have to make sure you push the dial against the spring, and make sure the set screw goes into the recess. I rock it slightly while tightening, and put lock tite on the set screw, even tho a new one usually has the red dot.
I have never been able to put the dial on with the speed dial set on the high mark. To get the recess on the shaft in the right place, I off-set the dial for the amount of movement of the shaft.
Have not run into one of the unsealed control sheave bearings in any of the hundreds of headstocks have repaired, or new parts have ordered. When did this change take place? You can get a little lube into the sealed bearings during assembly if you know how, but extra oil will not help these , in my opinion. Bob Fulwider
When putting on the dial you should make sure the spring is seated correctly on the plate, between the marks, and the recess in the shaft is aligned so that you can place the dial with the wrench already in the set screw on the shaft. To tighten the screw, you have to make sure you push the dial against the spring, and make sure the set screw goes into the recess. I rock it slightly while tightening, and put lock tite on the set screw, even tho a new one usually has the red dot.
I have never been able to put the dial on with the speed dial set on the high mark. To get the recess on the shaft in the right place, I off-set the dial for the amount of movement of the shaft.
Have not run into one of the unsealed control sheave bearings in any of the hundreds of headstocks have repaired, or new parts have ordered. When did this change take place? You can get a little lube into the sealed bearings during assembly if you know how, but extra oil will not help these , in my opinion. Bob Fulwider
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james.miller
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Adjusting the high speed stop screw
The older high speed adjustment stop screws are 1/8" shorter length than the new ones so you may have to buy a new stop screw. I went to Ace Hardware and bought a set screw that size and pitch 1.25" long then ground the tip shorter and rounded over and smooth it like the original.
My solution to setting the speed was I finally bought a "laser photo non contact digital tachometer" from e-bay. It was less than $30 including shipping.
In use I found that it works better when held about 18" away from the side of the shaft. Just for giggles and grins I checked the speed of the motor itself and found it slightly fast and the speed settings are close but not dead on. The Shopsmith is an adjustable pulley belt drive speed changer so there are many things that affect the speed like the wear of the belt and pulleys.
This is the ebayer I bought my tach from. http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Digital-Laser-P ... dZViewItem But any of them should work.
For an inexpensive tach it is pretty accurate, when I point it at the fluorescent lights in my shop it reads from 7198-7201 rpm the actual flicker rate of the lights that it is reading is exactly 7200 flickers per minute.
Someone mentioned using loctite on the setscrew of the speed control dial. Unless it is loctite specifically for aluminum I generally don't use loctite on aluminum. Some aluminum alloys will seize to the steal screw when loctite is used, then when you try to undo the screw in the future it strips the threads out of the aluminum. I don't know if the alloy shopsmith uses will have this problem.
A better alternative is probably the red dot on the setscrew, you can buy setscrews with an anti vibration patch already applied or if you're like me and want all of the nuts and bolts on your Shopsmith treated you can buy an ounce of a product called Vibra-Tite by ND. You paint it on the thread and let it cure for at least 10 minuets (I prefer overnight) then assemble and you will feel the compound causing resistance to twisting which helps the parts to not vibrate loose. Unfortunately this will effect the reading of a torque wrench.
Jim in Tucson
My solution to setting the speed was I finally bought a "laser photo non contact digital tachometer" from e-bay. It was less than $30 including shipping.
In use I found that it works better when held about 18" away from the side of the shaft. Just for giggles and grins I checked the speed of the motor itself and found it slightly fast and the speed settings are close but not dead on. The Shopsmith is an adjustable pulley belt drive speed changer so there are many things that affect the speed like the wear of the belt and pulleys.
This is the ebayer I bought my tach from. http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Digital-Laser-P ... dZViewItem But any of them should work.
For an inexpensive tach it is pretty accurate, when I point it at the fluorescent lights in my shop it reads from 7198-7201 rpm the actual flicker rate of the lights that it is reading is exactly 7200 flickers per minute.
Someone mentioned using loctite on the setscrew of the speed control dial. Unless it is loctite specifically for aluminum I generally don't use loctite on aluminum. Some aluminum alloys will seize to the steal screw when loctite is used, then when you try to undo the screw in the future it strips the threads out of the aluminum. I don't know if the alloy shopsmith uses will have this problem.
A better alternative is probably the red dot on the setscrew, you can buy setscrews with an anti vibration patch already applied or if you're like me and want all of the nuts and bolts on your Shopsmith treated you can buy an ounce of a product called Vibra-Tite by ND. You paint it on the thread and let it cure for at least 10 minuets (I prefer overnight) then assemble and you will feel the compound causing resistance to twisting which helps the parts to not vibrate loose. Unfortunately this will effect the reading of a torque wrench.
Jim in Tucson
I was having the same problem trying to adjust the high speed on the ShopSmith I just acquired. Read this forum, read the instructions a few times, and still could not figure it out. So I'm sitting there wondering how I somehow messed up my machine so it was backwards, like papahammer8, and everyone else seemed to have gotten it figured out.papahammer8 wrote:Chuck i believe i installed the speed control mechanism wrong when i replaced. just read the pdf high speed is at the top of sheave . now i just got to figure out how to reverve it. any suggestion would be greatly appreciated. all i know is to remove speed control and start over . thanks papahammer
Then I realized my problem. There are two sheeves, upper and lower ones. It's the lower sheeves where you want to be measuring the 1/16"-1/8", not the upper sheeves. Sure enough after reading the instructions closer it says "lower" sheeve. Doh! I promptly smacked my head against the wall for being so dense.
It should be the case that at SLOW, the belt is near top of upper sheeve, and bottom of lower sheeve. At FAST, everything switches, the belt is near bottom of upper sheeve, and top of lower sheeve.
If you're looking at the wrong sheeve, things appear backwards from described in the instructions and on the forum here. Stand on your head and things will look right.
Hope this helps anyone else getting similarly confused.
Ryan
-- Supreme Grandmaster of the Obvious --
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a1gutterman
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