Well Maintained Model ER

[chapmanruss]

I would follow JPG's recommendation on the start capacitor. Out of all the Model 10E, 10ER, Mark 5/V and Mark 2 Shopsmith's I have restored, including those waiting to be restored, I have yet to have a bad start capacitor. That includes 2 original, very early A. O. Smith 1/2 HP motors (shown below) on my Model 10E first production tools which are now over 76 years old.

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A O Smith 1-2 HP Motor early version r.jpg (140.07 KiB) Viewed 3596 times

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Although not a problem, one of the confusing parts in this topic is now going between the Model 10ER and the Mark 5. I believe Kevin's comment about staying with a 1/2 HP motor refers to the Model 10ER. Mark 5/V's started with a 3/4 HP motor going to the 1-1/8 HP motor in the early 1960's.

Something I noticed in the picture of your Model 10ER is the flexible shaft and how it is attached to the spindle.
It is not how the Shopsmith/Magna Flexible Shaft attaches. I also have a flexible shaft made by another manufacturer which goes directly on a 1/2" shaft which can be used on a Shopsmith using the Flexible Shaft Adapter. That is one of two interesting things I saw in that picture. The other is the use of the knob instead of a set screw for holding the Motor Mount Bracket in the Headstock. That knob is probably missing from its original spot on the Model 10ER.

[Redcloudz]

Russ thanks for your observation but just understand that the machine is exactly how it was the day I picked it up. I know SQUAT about ShopSmith which is the reason I'm here. I know that there are some old "diehards" here that wouldn't mind giving a green hand a little knowledge! And I DO respect every bit of info you guys are posting. The way I learned that the capacitor is bad was by removing the bottom cover and observing that one of the capacitor terminals was detached.... COMPLETELY detached. So I found an old capacitor here and hooked it to the motor in a no load position (belt removed). Flipped the switch and she ran like a Cadillac. The capacitor is weak so it definitely will not start the motor under a load. That being said I'm just gonna order the 270-324 unit since it obviously has to have a new one anyway. On another note I dug thru a plastic tote full of stuff that came with my ER and could use a little help identifying some parts. I feel pretty certain that #3 is a broken speed changer but have no clue on the other pieces. Thanks in advance!

[Redcloudz]

Oh I almost forgot....where do y'all buy the paint for these machines?

[jsburger]

Russ thanks for your observation but just understand that the machine is exactly how it was the day I picked it up. I know SQUAT about ShopSmith which is the reason I'm here. I know that there are some old "diehards" here that wouldn't mind giving a green hand a little knowledge! And I DO respect every bit of info you guys are posting. The way I learned that the capacitor is bad was by removing the bottom cover and observing that one of the capacitor terminals was detached.... COMPLETELY detached. So I found an old capacitor here and hooked it to the motor in a no load position (belt removed). Flipped the switch and she ran like a Cadillac. The capacitor is weak so it definitely will not start the motor under a load. That being said I'm just gonna order the 270-324 unit since it obviously has to have a new one anyway. On another note I dug thru a plastic tote full of stuff that came with my ER and could use a little help identifying some parts. I feel pretty certain that #3 is a broken speed changer but have no clue on the other pieces. Thanks in advance!

First welcome to the forum. We are here to help.

You are correct on #3

#1 is the extension table.
#2 is the jointer/shaper fence
#4 is a sanding disk
#5 is parts from a work hold down system. Unusable without the rest of the parts. Think feather boards.
#6 Not sure. It doesn't look like a SS part.
#7 is the miter slot extension that fits on the front of the table on the fence bar.
#8 is the table raiser arm. It goes on the table post and engages the screw crank in the carriage to raise and lower the main table.

[Redcloudz]

Thank you John. This is much appreciated.

Harold

[chapmanruss]

Since John has already identified the parts I won't repeat that. Don't get rid of the broken Speed Changer since parts can be used to make another one work. The Pulley Assembly could go on one that is missing it. As for the Sanding Disk #4 it is not a Shopsmith/Magna one but if it has a 5/8" bore it could mount on the Spindle. It is common to get non-Shopsmith parts with a used Shopsmith.

Below is my Model 10ER which shows the Extension Table in place on the Tailstock. The Miter is sitting on the Front Table Extension #7 and it is hard to see but the Table Riser Arm #8 is there on the front table post above the Carriage. The crank going up through the bottom of the Carriage pushes on the Table Riser Arm to adjust the height of the Table. DO NOT CRANK the Table Riser to raise the Table with the Table Locks on the Carriage locked. That can damage the Table Riser Assembly especially the arm.

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R64000.jpg (91.51 KiB) Viewed 3483 times

[chapmanruss]

Since you have the motor "Detached" it would be a good time to determine the condition of the Headstock Bearings. Turning the Headstock Pulley by hand does it turn easily and smoothly? If so great but if not remove the Quill Assembly from the Headstock to see which bearings are bad, the Quill or Drive Sleeve Bearings. To remover the Quill first remove the locking nuts and square hole washer off the Gauge Rod. Turn the Quill extension handle to extend the quill all the way out until it releases. Pull the Quill the rest of the way out of the Headstock but DO NOT let go of the handle. Turn the handle back to remove the spring tension before letting it go. With the Quill out you can check the bearings in it to see if they turn easily and smoothly. The same can be done for the Drive Sleeve Assembly which is still in the Headstock. If either the Quill or Drive Sleeve Assembly does not turn easily or smoothly the bearings should be replaced. Both the Quill and Drive Sleeve Assembly each have two bearings.