I was finally able to get registered, not sure what I was doing wrong.
Anyway, I just acquired my first SS. It is a basket case 1961 I believe Goldie Serial # 369690. I have already made a few mistakes, but nothing I can't over come.
I will post some pictures and embed some youtube videos as I go along. I have already learned a lot from all of you browsing the forum.
Anyway thanks in advanced and I hope I am not too annoying.
Allen
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A little rust on the Way, Bench and Table mounting tubes but nothing that cannot be corrected.
Serial Number 369690 would be from March 1961. It is very close to my Goldie S/N 370596C made in April and John Dalton's 369902C also made in March. Does yours have a "C" suffix hand engraved after the serial number as seen in the picture below? If so, like John's and mine it would have the special Gilmer Drive parts used just prior to the change to the Poly V Drive in May 1961. That is unless they have been changed by a previous owner.
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.
Because of a scratch the engraved C almost looks like an e.
Ask any questions you come up with. We are always glad to help.
Russ
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
Here is where I started. The accessory table was stuck in the hinge side, so before I could even raise it, I had to get that loose. I soaked it in PB Blaster a couple of times and then persuaded it with a rubber malate to come loose.
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Then I had to remove the 6" saw blade from it and remove the headstock.
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After that, I put the pieces of the 5/8 arbor in a bin of rust911 that I had left over from de-rusting a continental engine block out of a Clark forklift I am restoring.
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Now on to the extension table. I removed the four bolts that hold the bracket and tubes on it. Then I put the bracket in a vice and tapped on the first tube lightly using a socket and a socket extension with a hammer to remove the tube from the bracket. The first one came out fairly easy and I put it in the Rust911.
If you remember, I said I have already made some mistakes. The other tube would not budge. Against my better instincts, I got impatient and put the bracket in my press and with a couple of pumps of the jack, ping "who's your daddy" I broke one ear off of the bracket.
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So now I have to either weld it back on, find someone who can for me or get a new one. The other tube is still in the bracket to boot.
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Yes patience is definitely a virtue with no regrets.
Fortunately a replacement is easily obtained.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
So we set the extension table aside for now. I then got back to the base disassembly.
I this picture you can better see the condition of the base tubes and way tubes.
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So in my first post I stated I have already made a few mistakes. Here comes number two.
I couldn't get the roll pin out shaft of the base to remove the arm. Somebody had driven it in too far. I tried multiple things to get it out. Putting a screw in it, drilling it out, etc. So I resorted to a cut off wheel to cut the shaft off on each side of the arm.
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I now see some JB weld in my future.
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The side of the shaft with the roll pin in it is still in the base. I hope that I can mount it in my drill press and drill it out now.
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As for #2, did you consider driving the roll pin IN rather than pulling it out? Of course not, you were not aware that a hole exists on the internal side of the bore to allow that.
Soooo please consult herein before the mistake count gets bigger!
Oh and welcome to the funny farm here.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
JPG wrote: ↑Wed Jul 17, 2024 10:25 am
As for #2, did you consider driving the roll pin IN rather than pulling it out? Of course not, you were not aware that a hole exists on the internal side of the bore to allow that.
Soooo please consult herein before the mistake count gets bigger!
Oh and welcome to the funny farm here.
Well that just makes too much sense! I will do that in the future. In my defense It took me 4 or 5 days to get registered, for some reason the board would not send me the activation email.
