A couple of questions on removing and reassembling the motor sheaves.
1. Does it make any difference which way the spring goes on? Does one end have a larger diameter? If so which end goes towards the motor?
2. What am I looking for on the sheaves that would indicate the sheaves need replacement?
3. When they mesh together they are really hard to get apart. Is that normal?
4. Is there a trick to removing the fan sheave? I removed the allen screw but it is on there tight? I do not want to bend or break anything.
I appreciate any response. I am working to restore an 81 headstock I got at an estate sale.
Removing Motor Sheaves
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- JPG
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Re: Removing Motor Sheaves
If the sheave is hard to move when closed with NO spring, It may need more oil or cleaner shaft. It really really will move freely(gravity when vertical)Duckman wrote: ↑Mon Jul 22, 2024 9:51 pm A couple of questions on removing and reassembling the motor sheaves.
1. Does it make any difference which way the spring goes on? Does one end have a larger diameter? If so which end goes towards the motor?NO difference
2. What am I looking for on the sheaves that would indicate the sheaves need replacement? Wear
3. When they mesh together they are really hard to get apart. Is that normal?That spring say Yep that's normal
4. Is there a trick to removing the fan sheave? I removed the allen screw but it is on there tight? I do not want to bend or break anything. wedge(gently but sufficently) between sheave and motor bell near shaft Key removed???
I appreciate any response. I am working to restore an 81 headstock I got at an estate sale.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Re: Removing Motor Sheaves
I have done the wedge trick on another machine. I thought there might be a different way. The floating sheave moves pretty well. I cleaned the motor shaft and oiled it with 3 in one. Thanks for the response. DUCKMAN
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Re: Removing Motor Sheaves
3 in 1 is for door hinges and the like IMHO. No place for that oil and rotating machinery. Even their SAE 20Wt for 1/4HP or larger oil is a better choice.
Kevin
Kevin
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Re: Removing Motor Sheaves
I do not think the machinery will mind the odor.Real1shepperd wrote: ↑Sat Aug 03, 2024 1:14 am 3 in 1 is for door hinges and the like IMHO. No place for that oil and rotating machinery. Even their SAE 20Wt for 1/4HP or larger oil is a better choice.
Kevin
I also consider it appropriate since in is simply stinky #10.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Re: Removing Motor Sheaves
10Wt would be pretty light and I doubt if that particular formulation is designed for any machinery rotating at speed. I do know that their 1/4HP and larger formulation is, and have used it in electric motors for decades. Who said anything about odor?JPG wrote: ↑Sat Aug 03, 2024 12:08 pmI do not think the machinery will mind the odor.Real1shepperd wrote: ↑Sat Aug 03, 2024 1:14 am 3 in 1 is for door hinges and the like IMHO. No place for that oil and rotating machinery. Even their SAE 20Wt for 1/4HP or larger oil is a better choice.
Kevin
I also consider it appropriate since in is simply stinky #10.
Kevin
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Re: Removing Motor Sheaves
# 10 is what SS has recommended since they began in 1947.
Recent folks at ss have been known to say something else.
Mostly we are dealing with sliding parts(movable sheaves).
Recent folks at ss have been known to say something else.
Mostly we are dealing with sliding parts(movable sheaves).
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Re: Removing Motor Sheaves
Oils have come a LONG way fwd since 1947, to say the least. I will always take advantage of a newer formulation if it's specified for the task.
Kevin
Kevin