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DLB

GetterDone wrote I plan to buy a Top shaft coupler from SS.

I have been researching for 4 other different items on the Headstock rebuild on my 1981 Mark V.

4 Questions / Here I Go :)

1st is the belts.

I found 504170 and 504193-16 on Amazon.

Question is - Is there a Better source?

Where do you get yours?

I've always bought belts from Shopsmith, their sizes are not readily available though there are one or more ebay sellers that carry replacements. That said, people here have recently reported receiving a BESTORQ 4L260 for the motor belt. As far as I'm concerned the jury is out on the performance of a standard belt size, but Amazon sells this belt. It is $9 for one, with significant reductions for greater quantity.

2nd is the bearings

I have read thru the bearing thread in the intro thread and there is lots of good info.

Do I go back with Shielded bearings or sealed bearings?

I use sealed bearings whenever possible. Others prefer to use whatever the OEM used, which is kind of back and forth over the years. My view is because the environment is often dusty and it's a relatively low RPM application.

I need 1 Quill bearing 6202-Z and 2 6205-Z shaft bearings.

What do you use and where is a good place to get them?

Here again, you'll get personal preferences. I like Timken, usually get them on Amazon or ebay, but I use ebay less all the time. Z or ZZ represent shielded bearings, where 2RS would be sealed. Is this a single bearing quill? If yes, it is a unique bearing with metric OD and width but 5/8" ID. Requires a -10 in the PN. ) If 6202 is correct, and I'm not sure it is, you'd want 6202-10-2RS (or-ZZ in lieu of -2RS for shielded.)

3rd is the Speed control handle.

I can get a new one for SS for $41.95 today.

I would like to get one that was suggested above that has the steel gear (Ebay seller)

Being a Machinist I would like to find out where a source is for that Gear rod Stock he is using and fix it myself. :D

I'm sure the seller would be happy to share that info! Or not. ;) I think the consensus here favors the refurbished handle over new.

4th is the Motor Speed Control Sheave

Convince me I will be money ahead to buy the Motor Speed Control Sheave w/Hardware from SS,

Instead of trying to fix mine.

It has a burr in one of the V grooves and I would want to replace the Button bearing also.

Thanks in advance for your help and suggestions.

- David

HopefulSSer

DLB wrote

I've always bought belts from Shopsmith, their sizes are not readily available though there are one or more ebay sellers that carry replacements. That said, people here have recently reported receiving a BESTORQ 4L260 for the motor belt. As far as I'm concerned the jury is out on the performance of a standard belt size, but Amazon sells this belt. It is $9 for one, with significant reductions for greater quantity.

Just to muddy the waters, I got a BESTORQ 4L260 from the mothership when I ordered last year.

Brand new it was just under 1/2" wide. I had some old (ca. 1960?) belts made by Pirelli that in used condition were nearly 9/16". I didn't like the operation of the Bestorq (it seemed that from "slow" to about C or D, turning the speed control made no difference.) Though it's a bit controversial, I've now installed a link belt and find the speed control more linear, and the whole machine quieter. There are concerns that a link belt will cause accelerated wear to the sheaves and I will monitor, and if I feel like this is happening I will change back to a conventional V belt.

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=22518

Though I can't find a reference now, I seem to recall that SS used to state that if the belt is <1/2" then it needs replacing. The currently supplied belt, new, is <1/2".

JPG

It has been suggested to use a metric 15 x 67 (IIRC) belt. It is very close to 9/16 x 26.5.

GetterDone

DLB wrote
GetterDone wrote I plan to buy a Top shaft coupler from SS.

I have been researching for 4 other different items on the Headstock rebuild on my 1981 Mark V.

4 Questions / Here I Go :)

1st is the belts.

I found 504170 and 504193-16 on Amazon.

Question is - Is there a Better source?

Where do you get yours?

I've always bought belts from Shopsmith, their sizes are not readily available though there are one or more ebay sellers that carry replacements. That said, people here have recently reported receiving a BESTORQ 4L260 for the motor belt. As far as I'm concerned the jury is out on the performance of a standard belt size, but Amazon sells this belt. It is $9 for one, with significant reductions for greater quantity.

2nd is the bearings

I have read thru the bearing thread in the intro thread and there is lots of good info.

Do I go back with Shielded bearings or sealed bearings?

I use sealed bearings whenever possible. Others prefer to use whatever the OEM used, which is kind of back and forth over the years. My view is because the environment is often dusty and it's a relatively low RPM application.

I need 1 Quill bearing 6202-Z and 2 6205-Z shaft bearings.

What do you use and where is a good place to get them?

Here again, you'll get personal preferences. I like Timken, usually get them on Amazon or ebay, but I use ebay less all the time. Z or ZZ represent shielded bearings, where 2RS would be sealed. Is this a single bearing quill? If yes, it is a unique bearing with metric OD and width but 5/8" ID. Requires a -10 in the PN. ) If 6202 is correct, and I'm not sure it is, you'd want 6202-10-2RS (or-ZZ in lieu of -2RS for shielded.)

3rd is the Speed control handle.

I can get a new one for SS for $41.95 today.

I would like to get one that was suggested above that has the steel gear (Ebay seller)

Being a Machinist I would like to find out where a source is for that Gear rod Stock he is using and fix it myself. :D

I'm sure the seller would be happy to share that info! Or not. ;) I think the consensus here favors the refurbished handle over new.

4th is the Motor Speed Control Sheave

Convince me I will be money ahead to buy the Motor Speed Control Sheave w/Hardware from SS,

Instead of trying to fix mine.

It has a burr in one of the V grooves and I would want to replace the Button bearing also.

Thanks in advance for your help and suggestions.
- David

Thanks David

The Bestorq 4l 260 belt it is.

Amazon belts are out. :)

Sealed bearings would be my 1st choice.

I just wanted to hear it from the Experts.

I'm a Newbie to these machines / (Not to Machinery thou)

I am a Long time Timken Fan. :D

Thanks for the 2RS / This is a single bearing Quill.

I am going to message the guy on E bay.

All he can do is help or reject.

If he helps / I can fix More of these for someone else.

Thanks for the great info. :)

GetterDone

HopefulSSer wrote
DLB wrote

I've always bought belts from Shopsmith, their sizes are not readily available though there are one or more ebay sellers that carry replacements. That said, people here have recently reported receiving a BESTORQ 4L260 for the motor belt. As far as I'm concerned the jury is out on the performance of a standard belt size, but Amazon sells this belt. It is $9 for one, with significant reductions for greater quantity.

Just to muddy the waters, I got a BESTORQ 4L260 from the mothership when I ordered last year.

Brand new it was just under 1/2" wide. I had some old (ca. 1960?) belts made by Pirelli that in used condition were nearly 9/16". I didn't like the operation of the Bestorq (it seemed that from "slow" to about C or D, turning the speed control made no difference.) Though it's a bit controversial, I've now installed a link belt and find the speed control more linear, and the whole machine quieter. There are concerns that a link belt will cause accelerated wear to the sheaves and I will monitor, and if I feel like this is happening I will change back to a conventional V belt.

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=22518

Though I can't find a reference now, I seem to recall that SS used to state that if the belt is <1/2" then it needs replacing. The currently supplied belt, new, is <1/2".

Thanks

I am thinking this is the one I will use .

GetterDone

JPG wrote It has been suggested to use a metric 15 x 67 (IIRC) belt. It is very close to 9/16 x 26.5.

JPG

Thanks

I will check that out.

I have a Local (Old school) parts store I could visit.

I will take the info I have so far and see if I can Support my Local people/friends.

AllenH

Any updates?

GetterDone

AllenH wroteAny updates?

Yeah.

I got the Bearings from Zoro with a 20% coupon.

I ordered the belts and sheeve assembly and a few other things from SS.

The Belts were cheaper from SS than Amazon.

I am still waiting on the parts from SS.

GetterDone

This changes Everything. :rolleyes: 🙂

I am on machineCommunity now. :eek: 😃

I am changing gears on my restoration and will continue the restoration of,

Whichever one I choose to restore first in another thread. 🙂

So, last week a SS was on FB MPlace with bad motor,

I told my self Stop 🙂 Don't do it.

Well, I held back UNTIL :eek: they dropped the price in half. :rolleyes:

The rest is history. 😃

It came with a manual, a sharpening jig and a steel table bandsaw.

The only issue with the motor was the contact switch under the brown cover on the back.

The Headstock lock was Frozen.

with a little Kroil and some Patience, I got it free.

The speed adjustment looks in pristine condition.

Compared to the 1981 in the prior picture earlier in this thread.

This is a 1984 model.

I have the SHCS to make the (Bill Mayo) improvement.

I notice they had a wedge to keep the way tubes tightly locked.

Then I noticed why they felt like they had to do this.

There is a lot of wear in this hole by the blue arrow.

I am sure this misalignment of the lock screw for drill press mode was the cause.

If this is tightened with that much misalignment it would put a lot of pressure on that hole.

Now to take the Quill apart.

I love working on these. 😃

DLB

The lock screw for the vertical modes is normally off-centered from the recess hole. Looks weird, but that's the design. Yours might be slightly off, it's kind of hard to tell from the picture, but it shouldn't be centered. I would not think it is likely to cause excessive wear on the hinge pin holes.

SEVEN machines!

- David

GetterDone

DLB wrote The lock screw for the vertical modes is normally off-centered from the recess hole. Looks weird, but that's the design. Yours might be slightly off, it's kind of hard to tell from the picture, but it shouldn't be centered. I would not think it is likely to cause excessive wear on the hinge pin holes.

SEVEN machines!

- David

Thanks for that input .

Maybe it was just abuse.

The others I don't think have this much slop.

I will check the others and make a better assessment. :)

Yes 7 :eek:

I will try to put them in my signature.

They are so cheap around here and now I got most all the attachments I want. :D

I plan to refurbish and paint at least 3 of them.

I think they will sell (Fingers crossed) in a Mile long yard sale we have locally twice a year.

They are easy to buy and hard to sell around here though. :(

JPG

To better understand the tilt lock/dimple alignment:

The locking screw has a cone shaped point.

The dimple has a sloping side wall.

With the intentional offset of the two, the lock screw cone enters the dimple slightly inside the extreme edge.

This places the lock screw point inside outer edge and deeper into the dimple than the side of the cone which bears against the sloping dimple surface.

Thus the screw can be quite loose and still provide a rotational stop to the upper assembly.

Some here have not loosened the screw sufficiently and caused a scratch when manually forcing it down(lotta leverage available!).

Oh and we ALL have made that assumption that they are misaligned prior to understanding why.

GetterDone

JPG wrote To better understand the tilt lock/dimple alignment:

The locking screw has a cone shaped point.

The dimple has a sloping side wall.

With the intentional offset of the two, the lock screw cone enters the dimple slightly inside the extreme edge.

This places the lock screw point inside outer edge and deeper into the dimple than the side of the cone which bears against the sloping dimple surface.

Thus the screw can be quite loose and still provide a rotational stop to the upper assembly.

Some here have not loosened the screw sufficiently and caused a scratch when manually forcing it down(lotta leverage available!).

Oh and we ALL have made that assumption that they are misaligned prior to understanding why.

After looking at the other SS's I have here,

After DLB (David's) comment

I started to see it a little.

What you're saying makes sense to me.

The wear in the housing close to it, Is what made me notice it and start looking for causes.

It's probably just abuse ?

So thanks for your insight.

I will just focus on getting the slop out of the housing now.

chapmanruss

GetterDone,

JPG gave a great description of the lock and as he said

we ALL have made that assumption that they are misaligned prior to understanding why.

Now did we forget to warn you that buying Shopsmith Tools can be habit forming? 😃

I know that to be true since I have done it and still enjoy restoring Shopsmith Tools. I have many waiting for their turn. I was going to list them, but it would be a long list. Below is moving day last year to the new (to me) shop at our new home. Can't even see all the Shopsmith stuff in the picture and more has been added since.

Seriously though it is great to see a new to Shopsmith person so excited about the Shopsmith Tools.

Moving Day.jpg

JPG

Shop?

Looks like an airplane hanger!

mrp

shopsmith says use non-silicone topcoat by bostick to do maintenance on my shopsmith mark v 500. Can't find it anyplace for sale. is there a substitute?

GetterDone

chapmanruss wrote GetterDone,

JPG gave a great description of the lock and as he said

we ALL have made that assumption that they are misaligned prior to understanding why.
Now did we forget to warn you that buying Shopsmith Tools can be habit forming? :D

I know that to be true since I have done it and still enjoy restoring Shopsmith Tools. I have many waiting for their turn. I was going to list them, but it would be a long list. Below is moving day last year to the new (to me) shop at our new home. Can't even see all the Shopsmith stuff in the picture and more has been added since.

_

Moving Day.jpg

.

Seriously though it is great to see a new to Shopsmith person so excited about the Shopsmith Tools.

:eek: WOW.

I don't think a warning would have helped any. :D

[deleted]

mrp wrote shopsmith says use non-silicone topcoat by bostick to do maintenance on my shopsmith mark v 500. Can't find it anyplace for sale. is there a substitute?

Hmmm... I don't think Bostick Top Coat was around when the Mark 5 was introduced. Have you searched for it? Amazon sells (among others) Bostick Glide Cote. It is the same product but a different name.

JPG

jsburger wrote
mrp wrote shopsmith says use non-silicone topcoat by bostick to do maintenance on my shopsmith mark v 500. Can't find it anyplace for sale. is there a substitute?
Hmmm... I don't think Bostick Top Coat was around when the Mark 5 was introduced. Have you searched for it? Amazon sells (among others) Bostick Glide Cote. It is the same product but a different name.

Ya I am curious who at SS came up with that 'official' recommendation. :rolleyes:

chapmanruss

mrp,

Welcome to the Shopsmith Forum. You asked

shopsmith says use non-silicone topcoat by bostick to do maintenance on my shopsmith mark v 500. Can't find it anyplace for sale. is there a substitute?

Yes, Paste Wax, read on.

At one time Shopsmith included Bostik Top-Cote in their Help Kit instead of paste wax that had been used since the 1950's on Shopsmith Tools. After a short time, they went back to including paste wax in the Help Kit. As you can see from the list of contents in the picture below the Help Kit has a lot of helpful items to maintain your Shopsmith Tool.

I have a can of the Bostik Top-Cote that I have never used. I prefer to use Johnson Paste Wax that had been included in the Help Kit in the past. JPW is no longer made. Minwax Paste Wax is currently included in the Help Kit. The PDF attached below is a waxing recommendation for the Shopsmith Model 10E & 10ER edited from the early (1950's) Mark 5 Owner's Guide. It includes information found in most Shopsmith Mark 5/V manuals and other sources.

The use of Bostik Top-Cote would have been substituted in literature for paste wax during the time Shopsmith included it instead of paste wax.

515325 Help Kit - Bostik.jpg

Waxing Supplement Model 10s.pdf

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