Good evening.
Has anyone removed an Auxiliary guide rod(134-9) from a 10ER jigsaw fixture? Any recommendations?
I’ve recently decided to restore my Shopsmith and thought the jigsaw would be a great “sandbox” to test paints, polishes, potions and elixirs.
I didn’t plan on pressed bits…
Auxiliary guide rod removal
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chapmanruss
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Re: Auxiliary guide rod removal
jlarkins,
Welcome to the Shopsmith Forum.
I am guessing you have a copy of the Owner's Guide since you are able to add the part number to your post.
I have restored several of the Model A-34 Jig Saws. To remove the Auxiliary Guide Rod first remove the 134-9S Set Screw. It is located above the Drive Housing Cover. The rod will then be able to be pushed out of the Lower Frame Assembly (134-1XA). The Auxiliary Guide Rod goes through the Auxiliary Guide Rod Bearing (134-8) which keeps the Crank Link Assembly (134-4X) properly positioned. A bit of penetrating oil on the rod, bearing and frame may be helpful in getting the rod out. Take note or better yet pictures of the location of the parts as you disassemble the Jig Saw. It will help in reassembling it more so than the exploded view in the Owner's Guide.
Something to know about the Model A-34 Jig Saw is there were two versions made. The difference is the Lower Frame Assembly with the first using 4 screws to hold the Drive Housing Cover on and the later version used 2 screws for the cover. The only other difference between them (besides the cover and number of screws) is the Lower Frame Assembly.
The part numbers given here are for the Jig Saws made prior to November 1951 when the part numbers changed for the Model 10ER and all the accessories including the Jig Saw. As an example, the Auxiliary Guide Rod part number changed to A 2241.
Now a word of caution. There are no new parts available for these Jig Saws unless fabricated. Use care in disassembling and cleaning parts. Parts like the cast on alloy end of the Hold Down Support Assembly (134-40X) tend to be brittle and easily damaged. These alloy cast on parts can easily be damaged by chemicals used to remove rust from the steel/iron parts of the assemblies. This includes the Upper and Lower Chuck Assemblies and the Spring Cylinder Assembly alloy cast ends.
Welcome to the Shopsmith Forum.
I am guessing you have a copy of the Owner's Guide since you are able to add the part number to your post.
I have restored several of the Model A-34 Jig Saws. To remove the Auxiliary Guide Rod first remove the 134-9S Set Screw. It is located above the Drive Housing Cover. The rod will then be able to be pushed out of the Lower Frame Assembly (134-1XA). The Auxiliary Guide Rod goes through the Auxiliary Guide Rod Bearing (134-8) which keeps the Crank Link Assembly (134-4X) properly positioned. A bit of penetrating oil on the rod, bearing and frame may be helpful in getting the rod out. Take note or better yet pictures of the location of the parts as you disassemble the Jig Saw. It will help in reassembling it more so than the exploded view in the Owner's Guide.
Something to know about the Model A-34 Jig Saw is there were two versions made. The difference is the Lower Frame Assembly with the first using 4 screws to hold the Drive Housing Cover on and the later version used 2 screws for the cover. The only other difference between them (besides the cover and number of screws) is the Lower Frame Assembly.
The part numbers given here are for the Jig Saws made prior to November 1951 when the part numbers changed for the Model 10ER and all the accessories including the Jig Saw. As an example, the Auxiliary Guide Rod part number changed to A 2241.
Now a word of caution. There are no new parts available for these Jig Saws unless fabricated. Use care in disassembling and cleaning parts. Parts like the cast on alloy end of the Hold Down Support Assembly (134-40X) tend to be brittle and easily damaged. These alloy cast on parts can easily be damaged by chemicals used to remove rust from the steel/iron parts of the assemblies. This includes the Upper and Lower Chuck Assemblies and the Spring Cylinder Assembly alloy cast ends.
Russ
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's, 2 Power Stations & Crafter's Station
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored.
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's, 2 Power Stations & Crafter's Station
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored.
Re: Auxiliary guide rod removal
Thank you so much. I have the four bolt badge variant.
I had removed the set screw but didn’t apply any force to dislodge the rod for fear it was pressed into the assembly. I did wonder why there would be a set screw if it had indeed been pressed.
Your other advice is very well received. Thank you again.
I had removed the set screw but didn’t apply any force to dislodge the rod for fear it was pressed into the assembly. I did wonder why there would be a set screw if it had indeed been pressed.
Your other advice is very well received. Thank you again.