A-34 Jigsaw Redux

[jlarkins]

I’ve had my Shopsmith for several years and decided to make good on the original threa, clean it up, invest in it. I’m starting with the jigsaw attachment which I’ve never used.

I completed disassembly (thanks to chapmanruss*) and inventory. Happily, I am only missing the mounting bolt spacer(134-21) and the blade guide (134-41).

Not entirely despondent over the broken full dog allen set screw(134-14)..


*Auxiliary guide rod removal:
viewtopic.php?p=317740#p317740

[chapmanruss]

Not to bad as far as the missing parts go. The parts look pretty clean already. For the 10 Jig Saws I have already restored I used Rust oleum Charcoal Gray paint. That color is the closet match I have found to the original color. See example below. I use a Matte Clear coat to remover the gloss.

How is the condition of part 134-32 Leather Pump Seal. For most of my restorations it has been in a usable condition still, but I did fabricate a replacement from a piece of an old belt for one. Sometimes it takes a little creative thinking to come up with a workable solution.

The Mounting Bolt Spacer (134-21) can easily be replaced. It is only needed when using the Jig Saw as a Sabre Saw with the Upper Arm removed. It fills the space of the Upper Arm to mount the Lower Frame Assembly only to the Model 10's. I have found spacers to use as a replacement. I would have to measure the length for the correct size and the ID would be able to slide over the Mounting Bolt P/N 134-25. This part is commonly missing.

The Blade Guide (134-41) is a fiber piece and was the same used for the Model 610 Jig Saw beginning in 1954. Unfortunately, it is no longer available as a replacement part for that Jig Saw either since Shopsmith discontinued it many years ago in favor of the Scroll Saw. If I remember correctly someone knew a source for that material to make your own cut to length replacements. Wood or plastic rod would not be a good option as wood would tend to "burn" and plastic would tend to melt from the friction.

The Full Dog Allen set screw (134-14) is a not so common hardware, but they can be found. It is a 1/4"-20x5/8" set screw. Check hardware stores with a larger selection of nuts, bolts, etc. The Full Dog Set Screw is needed to engage the hole in the Chuck Blocks P/N 134-15. Without the Full Dog end of the set screw the Chuck Blocks would fall out when loosened.

jlarkins,

If it feels to you that I am overexplaining things that is on purpose as others may read this for advice on their Shopsmith projects. It's just something I tend to do.

To keep things all together for you and other readers post all things about your Jig Saw restoration here. Questions, comments and updates are always welcome.

Below is my first Jig Saw restoration along with my Model 4E Jointer. This one still has the gloss finish from the paint. It is the later version of the Jig Saw.

_

4E Jointer and Jig Saw.jpg (52.24 KiB) Viewed 1886 times

[jsburger]

Russ said,

"The Blade Guide (134-41) is a fiber piece and was the same used for the Model 610 Jig Saw beginning in 1954. Unfortunately, it is no longer available as a replacement part for that Jig Saw either since Shopsmith discontinued it many years ago in favor of the Scroll Saw. If I remember correctly someone knew a source for that material to make your own cut to length replacements. Wood or plastic rod would not be a good option as wood would tend to "burn" and plastic would tend to melt from the friction."

USPlastics has it. 1/4" Grade XXX Phenolic Rod is $7.34 for a 4' length. Also McMaster-Carr has a suitable sub.

[jlarkins]

Russ and John,
Thank you both for your expertise.

My first experience with Evaporust did not disappoint.

[jlarkins]

The Leather Pump Seal(134-32) appears to be intact and is pliable. I mistook its composition to be rubber.

[chapmanruss]

Thanks to John. I was sure someone had the answer for a substitute for the Blade Guide.

The Leather Pump Seal being in usable condition is good news too.

A paint job on the Lower Frame Assembly, Upper Frame and the Drive Housing Cover will have it will looking like new. When painting the Lower Frame Assembly be careful not to block the vent hole on the bottom of the Drive Housing with paint. Vent hole shown below.

_

Lower Vent Hole.jpg (88 KiB) Viewed 1728 times

.
Some owners have painted the SS Logo red as shown below instead of having it gray. The example is unfortunately scratched above the H.
Something I have wanted to but yet to have done it on a restoration.

_

Cover special paint.jpg (52.13 KiB) Viewed 1728 times

.
Something I hadn't mentioned yet is the Lower Frame Assembly on that early version has the casting hollow through the entire casting. Saw dust and debris can get into the casting and find its way to the Drive Housing area. Blocking the opening between the Drive Housing area and the rest of the casting will keep saw dust out having a cleaner Drive Housing area. One member used a bit of spray in foam insulation to block it. If you choose to do that just be careful to keep the spray foam from getting inside the Drive Housing area.

[jlarkins]

Thank you Russ.

Your first restoration looks great! Painting the hex head cap screws really allows the lines of the design to flow. And that gooseneck lamp is a crown. Excellent work.

[chapmanruss]

I measured the Mounting Bolt Spacer. It is 1-17/128" long with an ID to fit over the 1/2" (actual is 17/32") Mounting Bolt and the outside is 3/4" OD. Finding the exact size may be difficult but a combination of spacers and washers would work. Again, the Mounting Bolt Spacer is only needed when using it as a Sabre Saw.

I have two shorter spacers that with a washer works in place of an original one.

[JPG]

I think I would call that 1 1/8" Maybe a burr or distortion adds that extra 0.0078.

[jlarkins]

De-rusted, cleaned and polished. Still contemplating blade guides.

I didn’t realize the body was cast aluminum. I’m leaving it bare, like a BMW Airhead engine.

I really was impressed with Evapo-rust and plan to rely on it for the big redux.