My Model 10-ER Journey

[JPG]

If that glue is "distic" a lacquer/whatever based glue stick that is really really difficult to remove. Try various stuff to dissolve.

[Real1shepperd]

This is interesting because I have two large steel discs that I laminate grit to for sharpening sheep shearing blades. The adhesive is gray and looks like epoxy, but it loosens quite easily with water submersion. That 'distic' sounds like it takes a chem to get off. I wonder why they made that so difficult. The adhesive I used on my steel wheels has been around for at least 40 years, possibly longer.

Oh well, once you get this stuff off, you only deal with self-stick discs. I'd try acetone and if that doesn't work, MEK. The old 10E/10ER disc I bought online had some adhesive remnants. I used an air tool with disposable Scotch pads and it zipped it all off.

Kevin

[JPG]

Distic is made 'fluid' initially by the heat caused by friction when rubbed against the spinning disc. Perhaps heat will ease the effort. Later adhesive was a latex based liquid fast drying contact cement.

[Real1shepperd]

Did "Distic" come in a stick form? I ask because the 10E I bought for a friend has a stick of something or other in a drawer....

Kevin

[jpdalton]

Did "Distic" come in a stick form?

It sure did!

IMG_4900.jpeg (191.54 KiB) Viewed 2100 times

[MichaelCfffg]

Really good information on your post, Kevin, especially about the bearings and the sanding disk. It will go into a bucket of water tomorrow. Thank you!

I've got too many irons in the fire right now (pretty much always), so I've been pulled away from the Shopsmith project for a while. As soon as I can get back into it I'll be back on this thread with updates.

[Real1shepperd]

Really good information on your post, Kevin, especially about the bearings and the sanding disk. It will go into a bucket of water tomorrow. Thank you!

I've got too many irons in the fire right now (pretty much always), so I've been pulled away from the Shopsmith project for a while. As soon as I can get back into it I'll be back on this thread with updates.

Yeah, I definitely know how that is. My friend who had me travel to buy that old 10E still hasn't bought a house and due to lack of space, it sits in front of his covered car(another project), with its own cover. I have the space outside, but I hate to see stuff just sitting.

Meanwhile, 'back at the ranch'(inside my garage), I'm sure enjoying my 10ER! I haven't been able to wreak the full RPM range from my speed changer. Skip and I are befuddled. He says it might be the thickness of the new belts. I bought a digital RPM checker and he suggested I paint the headstock pulley rim flat black, attach my foil and try again. I haven't gotten to that yet.....

Kevin

[chapmanruss]

Real1shepperd,

You said,

I haven't been able to wreak the full RPM range from my speed changer.

I am curious what speed ranges you are getting.

The Belts should be 4L220 and 4L250. The original sizes were 4L225 and 4L 255 but are hard to find. If you bought them from Skip, they should be correct. Some belts may vary in that 4L width.

Instead of painting the pulley you could use something attached to the Quill's Spindle with more contrast. I have used an Arbor that has the black protective coating for that contrast.

A possible cause is the spacing of the Floating Pulley Assembly. The outside sheaves should have the one belt almost touching the shaft while the other runs close to the outside edge of the pulley. If the one belt is touching the center shaft that could cause slippage. Are the belts sitting close to even with the outside edge of the Headstock and Motor Pulleys? In the picture below the Belt on the Headstock is just shy of even with the outer edge of the pulley. Those are new belts in the picture. Again, belt widths may vary. A narrower or worn belt will sit down further into the pulley.

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Low Range - Slow Speeds.jpg (178.42 KiB) Viewed 1809 times

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Another possible problem could be old, worn or simply bad bearings. That would put extra work on the motor.

As the Speed Changer Chart says

All above speeds are only approximate and may vary according to belt tension, or wear, or current voltage.

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Below is a PDF replica of the Speed Changer Chart.
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Speed Changer Chart.pdf

(6.21 KiB) Downloaded 75 times

[JPG]

Hate that crank positioning close to the headstock lock.

[chapmanruss]

JPG,

I do too.

That is an earlier picture of that Model 10ER (the first one I restored and still have) and the Crank position has been changed.

For anyone wondering why we dislike having the Crank close to the Headstock, it has the Crank Handle turning very close and sometimes hitting the Headstock Way Tube Lock Lever. There is plenty of room to mount the Crank on the other side of the mounting ears and still clear the belt.

EDIT:

Below is a picture with the Speed Changer Crank Handle mounted away from the Headstock side.

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Speed Changer - Crank Outboard 17731.jpg (99.18 KiB) Viewed 1705 times