New Guy too!

[NYViking]

Good evening everyone!

I am happy to say that I am a new owner of a Shopsmith Mark 5, though admittedly, I didn't know what these were until my wife said she found a lathe to add to my woodworking arsenal and when we picked it up, it came with the band sander attachment. With my curiosity peaked, and fast internet speeds, I found the Shopsmith website and ultimately realized the gem that is this machine. I am now about 24 hours in to my ownership and I have found out a lot and have many more questions. I have been reading some of the posts here and it feels like this could be the place I need to make this machine the machine it deserves to be, but with lots of help.

So, I have manually spun the main spindle with the belt cover off while adjust the speed because that is what a YouTube video said to do. I noticed that the floating sheave appeared to stop spinning as I brought it up to the higher speeds. I took a closer look at the spring assembly and the cap holding the spring under tension was not secure. As I attempted to secure it, the spring exploded and the cap and tension ring flew off. So, first things first, I probably should get that put back on and then I can get back to regular maintenance stuff. Has anyone had that happen and have a "easy" way to get the spring loaded and cap back on long enough to replace the tension ring?

I added a photo of the cap area for reference and the s/n in case there are any magicians who can tell me more about this machine. Thank you.

[JPG]

NO PIX!

[DLB]

Welcome to the forum!

Your description of the spring retainer part as a "cap" implies an older machine, perhaps a Greenie from the 1950's with a 3/4 HP GE or AO Smith motor. The cap is retained by an external snap ring installed in a groove near the end of the motor shaft. First, inspect the snap ring and groove since this should never come apart on its own. To install the snap ring you'll need something or someone to hold the cap and spring in compression while you install the snap ring using (ideally) snap ring pliers. A simple/popular spring compression tool can be made from a "bored board" and two C-clamps or bar clamps. The hole in the board is large enough to clear the shaft and snap ring and small enough that it does not clear the cap. A helper or the two clamps can hold the spring in compression while you install the snap ring. This method works best if the motor is removed from the headstock. There are alternatives based on the same idea, some will work with the motor still in the motor pan.

Note - many of these older machines don't have the lubrication holes in the floating and/or control sheaves. While the spring is off is a great time to clean, inspect and lubricate the motor shaft. You can also consider adding the floating sheave lubrication hole if one is not present. Gunk buildup between the sliding sheaves and shafts is a common problem for the mechanical speed control.

- David

[NYViking]

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NO PIX!

[NYViking]

Sorry about that JPG.
IMG_1823.jpeg

IMG_1818.jpeg

NO PIX!

[NYViking]

Welcome to the forum!

Your description of the spring retainer part as a "cap" implies an older machine, perhaps a Greenie from the 1950's with a 3/4 HP GE or AO Smith motor. The cap is retained by an external snap ring installed in a groove near the end of the motor shaft. First, inspect the snap ring and groove since this should never come apart on its own. To install the snap ring you'll need something or someone to hold the cap and spring in compression while you install the snap ring using (ideally) snap ring pliers. A simple/popular spring compression tool can be made from a "bored board" and two C-clamps or bar clamps. The hole in the board is large enough to clear the shaft and snap ring and small enough that it does not clear the cap. A helper or the two clamps can hold the spring in compression while you install the snap ring. This method works best if the motor is removed from the headstock. There are alternatives based on the same idea, some will work with the motor still in the motor pan.

Note - many of these older machines don't have the lubrication holes in the floating and/or control sheaves. While the spring is off is a great time to clean, inspect and lubricate the motor shaft. You can also consider adding the floating sheave lubrication hole if one is not present. Gunk buildup between the sliding sheaves and shafts is a common problem for the mechanical speed control.

- David

Thank you David, that was the same idea I had with the bored wood block and clamps. I was thinking if it was in the vertical position it would be possible as well, any concerns you might have doing it that way, or should I consider removing the motor from the headstock as you suggested? when lubricating and cleaning the sheaves, is there anything else that I should pay attention to or clean? How much of the motor shaft should I lubricate?

Thanks.

[DLB]

Thank you David, that was the same idea I had with the bored wood block and clamps. I was thinking if it was in the vertical position it would be possible as well, any concerns you might have doing it that way, or should I consider removing the motor from the headstock as you suggested? when lubricating and cleaning the sheaves, is there anything else that I should pay attention to or clean? How much of the motor shaft should I lubricate?

Thanks.

I wouldn't have any concerns, anything that holds the spring and cap in compression is good. I've used an arbor wrench or other open end wrench with only one clamp, but don't recall details. If there is a lot of gunk on the shaft it tends to be worse near the key, if the gunk is really stuck on I'll remove the fan sheave and key so I can clean the key up separately. For working on the motor shaft with the motor installed, you'll have better access with the machine tilted to the vertical, aka drill press, position.

- David

[chapmanruss]

The instructions David gave will get the Spring back on the Motor Shaft.

Now a little about your new to you Shopsmith Mark 5. Serial number 295981 was made in April 1955. That give us some important information about your Mark 5. If it hasn't been upgraded, it has the 3/4 HP Motor. More importantly it has the "A" Headstock. That means there was not an access hole behind the Logo Medalion on the back side of the Headstock for maintenance. With the Motor and pan off the Headstock Casting it would be a good time to clean out any debris and lubricate the parts. Being an older Mark 5 It may not have the lubrication holes David mentioned in the Motor and Idler Shaft Pulley Sheaves. With the Spring still off remove the Floating Sheave from the motor shaft. Clean the parts and lubricate the shaft with a lightweight oil. With the Spring off this will be your best opportunity to do so. If it has a lubrication hole it will be on the Sleeve part of the Sheave indicated below.

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NYViking Motor end marked.jpg (89.39 KiB) Viewed 2156 times

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If it doesn't have the hole, you can add it by drilling a small hole over the Key slot. Do make sure to remove any burrs left from drilling the hole.

There would be a lubrication hole on the Idler Shaft Floating Sheave in a similar location. If not, one could be added to it also. Adding the lubrication holes will make future maintenance easier.

Hopefully you received the Owner's Guide with your Mark 5. If not, a PDF is available through the Forum. Let me know if you need it.

There is a lot of helpful information to be found here on the Shopsmith Forum. It can be your best reference on anything related to the Shopsmith Tools. Feel free to ask questions on anything, especially anything you are unsure of before attempting to do something. You have already experienced the most "explosive" thing that can happen.

[JPG]

Being picky here, but, the idler shaft has the movable control sheave and the motor shaft has the floating sheave. Both if original need the lubrication hole added.

FWIW I have installed the cup/retaining ring by carefully(do NOT let go) gripping the cup, depressing the spring til the groove become accessible, then slip the retaining ring over the shaft and into the groove(AMSPBLG - Absolutely must seat properly before letting go). Vertical shaft orientation helps.

BTW ABSOLUTELY disassemble, clean, lubricate both movable sheaves/keys/shafts.

[chapmanruss]

JPG,

Don't be sorry about using the correct terminology. I try to but slipped up on this one.