Fine Adjust for Rip Width Using Quill

[DLB]

In another thread, Dusty asked: "Just a question for those who "micro-adjust.....what level of precision do you demand of yourself when performing a table alignment (to the blade).?" (viewtopic.php?p=319592#p319592)

The short answer for me is +/- 0.002" because I just bought a new saw blade that specifies this accuracy. But 1) I have never, to my knowledge, achieved that on any Mark 5/V/7/4 and therefore it has nothing much to do with using the fine adjustment technique of using the quill as a fine adjustment for rip fence cuts . I expect some amount of discussion to ensue so I'm starting a new thread. The technique comes from PTWFE where it is called fine adjustment. In my copy it is in Chapter 2 "Table Saw: Basic Cuts" in a paragraph entitled "General Ripping" and it is pictured in Figure 2-35.

I don't think level of precision in aligning the table to the blade is very relevant, but I generally want to adjust mine if I check the alignment and it is out by more that 5 or 6 thousandths. Before writing this I checked a SawStop company video on their excellent PCS saw which stated a threshold of 0.010". But I also recently received a shiny new Forrest WWII and it specifies 0.002". I am usually pretty happy if I can get a Mark within 0.003" without investing an inordinate amount of time, but I'm going to have another go at this and try to achieve the Forrest accuracy. I'm not at all confident that I can achieve this on the Mark without some kind of modification.

Shopsmith, as far as I know, doesn't specify this. And the alignment in the manual doesn't measure it. So, for roughly the first 30 years of my SS experience I used the quill technique to fine adjust rip style cuts with no idea what the accuracy of this alignment was. And it worked perfectly every time. Later I added feeler gauges to the alignment in the book, at roughly the same time I went from a pre-500 model to a 520. Still later I replaced the feeler gauge with a dial indicator setup.

- David

[dusty]

Please do correct me if I am wrong but the Forrest specification (.002") speaks to flatness of the blade. This contributes to the ability to accurately align the table to the blade but is not (IMO) a controlling factor.

I abandoned tape measures, steel rules (for the purpose of table to blade alignments) and digital gauges almost entirely. I now use a set of my own setup blocks and my own alignment procedures. Works for me and it is what I advocate to those who will take over my shop.

[DLB]

Please do correct me if I am wrong but the Forrest specification (.002") speaks to flatness of the blade.

That's not correct. Forrest does specify runout (~flatness) of their blades at 0.001" maximum. From the Instructions and Guidelines sheets included with this blade: "FIRST align blade parallel to the miter slots within .002"..."

- David

[dusty]

Please do correct me if I am wrong but the Forrest specification (.002") speaks to flatness of the blade.

That's not correct. Forrest does specify runout (~flatness) of their blades at 0.001" maximum. From the Instructions and Guidelines sheets included with this blade: "FIRST align blade parallel to the miter slots within .002"..."

- David

I don't fully understand but that is OKAY. Blade is flat (.001") and parallel (.002") to miter slots! Excellent starting position.