speed changer help
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- myfathersworkshop
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Re: speed changer help
Russ, as to the speed indicator, it just needs a screw, and I remounted the screw assembly as it was.
Now to the springs, I'm unclear as to what needs to be done. In the "springs" photo, every thing is at rest, no tension and you can see, there is a difference in the spring space, on the right about 13/16" on the left, about 5/8". The lock nut is turned so just a wisp of the rod is showing as you suggested. So are you saying I need to shave that left spring down to 5/8" ?
Now to the springs, I'm unclear as to what needs to be done. In the "springs" photo, every thing is at rest, no tension and you can see, there is a difference in the spring space, on the right about 13/16" on the left, about 5/8". The lock nut is turned so just a wisp of the rod is showing as you suggested. So are you saying I need to shave that left spring down to 5/8" ?
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- speedindicator.jpg (101.79 KiB) Viewed 3344 times
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- JPG
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Re: speed changer help
What I would do is only use two of the washers. One between the shoulder of the rod and the front(right) spring and the second between the rear(left) spring and the nut. That places the opposing end of both springs directly against the larger surface area of the mounting 'thingie'. That should gain about 1/8" of available space.You would still need to tighten the nut slightly more than shown in the pix, but would only compress the springs 1/32" each assuming equal spring rate.
P.S. your earlier pix clearly shows the rear(?) spring is about 1/16" longer. That will alter the spring rate. So equality will not occur.
I would NOT alter the springs.
P.S. your earlier pix clearly shows the rear(?) spring is about 1/16" longer. That will alter the spring rate. So equality will not occur.
I would NOT alter the springs.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- myfathersworkshop
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Re: speed changer help
Thanks, jpg. Here so far. Not really much difference in spring length. There is just a wee bit of tension on the springs, but it feels about equal, not installed though. Cleaning up the base bracket and arm today.
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- locknut.jpg (54.06 KiB) Viewed 3304 times
- chapmanruss
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Re: speed changer help
With the way the Screw Assembly looks in your last pictures I wouldn't worry about changing anything. The lock nut is on okay with just a bit of the threaded end showing. It is really not necessary to have the springs perfectly equal. As you show them in the last two pictures they will work as they are supposed to. The Springs only compress as you pass the end of the speed range. One compresses as you pass the high end and the other compresses as you pass the low end.
Below is the spring end of the Speed Changer I posted the pictures of in my previous post.
_
Below is the spring end of the Speed Changer I posted the pictures of in my previous post.
_
Russ
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
- myfathersworkshop
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- Joined: Tue Dec 31, 2024 1:39 pm
- Location: Memphis,TN
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Re: speed changer help
I broke the head-stock pulley trying to get it off, snapped a bit of the edge off the 2" side, crapo! should have been more careful. All belts and pulleys on order and I still need to find a screw that ties the machine to the speed changer together (P1013 on the parts diagram)
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- SC2.jpg (114.97 KiB) Viewed 3262 times
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- SC3.jpg (133.2 KiB) Viewed 3262 times
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- SC4.jpg (129.08 KiB) Viewed 3262 times
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- SC on Shopsmith.jpg (160.43 KiB) Viewed 3262 times
- JPG
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Re: speed changer help
A long set screw. Do be careful to NOT tighten a nut so the speed changer cannot move. (a common cause of broken sc casting. The sc needs to be connected, but not tightly so.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- chapmanruss
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- Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2014 8:16 pm
- Location: near Portland, Oregon
Re: speed changer help
P 1013 is a 3/8"-16x1-1/2" Set Screw that replaces the 3/8"-16x1/2" Set Screw in the Headstock that holds one of the posts of the Motor Mount in place. It uses A 2671 the Knurled Nut to keep the Speed Changer in place. As JPG said do NOT tighten this nut but only screw it on the set screw enough to "touch" the Speed Changer Base Bracket. When Adjusting the Motor height for belt tension or belt position changes always loosen the Knurled Nut first.
Always heed this warning from page 1 of the Variable Speed Changer 01-53 instructions I previously posted.
Although kind of sad that the Motor Pulley broke it is not that much of a loss since you will not need to use it again having a correct 3 step Pulley on the Motor. When installing the new 3 step Pulley make sure it moves freely on the motor shaft including the key. Having the Pulleys, including the Headstock Drive Sleeve Pulley, able to move freely on their respective shafts will be beneficial when setup changes are desired.
On page 2 of the instructions you will find the following
Always heed this warning from page 1 of the Variable Speed Changer 01-53 instructions I previously posted.
If you don't have the A 2671 Knurled Nut you could replace it with a standard 3/8"-16 nut and add a washer.Be sure knurled Jam nut is only finger-tightened.
Overtightening will cause the headstock to bind on the tubular ways.
If binding occurs check the knurled jam nut for looseness.
Forcing the headstock may result in breaking the bracket base.
Although kind of sad that the Motor Pulley broke it is not that much of a loss since you will not need to use it again having a correct 3 step Pulley on the Motor. When installing the new 3 step Pulley make sure it moves freely on the motor shaft including the key. Having the Pulleys, including the Headstock Drive Sleeve Pulley, able to move freely on their respective shafts will be beneficial when setup changes are desired.
On page 2 of the instructions you will find the following
This part of the instructions is not possible to follow. The user must make these adjustments and replacements. You have already done item 5.4 Never loosen special size set screws holding pulley sheaves.
These are factory set and tightened.
5 If replacement of bushings is needed, entire unit should be
returned to factory
Russ
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
Re: speed changer help
The OP said he broke the head stock pulley.chapmanruss wrote: ↑Sat Jan 11, 2025 2:16 pm P 1013 is a 3/8"-16x1-1/2" Set Screw that replaces the 3/8"-16x1/2" Set Screw in the Headstock that holds one of the posts of the Motor Mount in place. It uses A 2671 the Knurled Nut to keep the Speed Changer in place. As JPG said do NOT tighten this nut but only screw it on the set screw enough to "touch" the Speed Changer Base Bracket. When Adjusting the Motor height for belt tension or belt position changes always loosen the Knurled Nut first.
Always heed this warning from page 1 of the Variable Speed Changer 01-53 instructions I previously posted.
If you don't have the A 2671 Knurled Nut you could replace it with a standard 3/8"-16 nut and add a washer.Be sure knurled Jam nut is only finger-tightened.
Overtightening will cause the headstock to bind on the tubular ways.
If binding occurs check the knurled jam nut for looseness.
Forcing the headstock may result in breaking the bracket base.
Although kind of sad that the Motor Pulley broke it is not that much of a loss since you will not need to use it again having a correct 3 step Pulley on the Motor. When installing the new 3 step Pulley make sure it moves freely on the motor shaft including the key. Having the Pulleys, including the Headstock Drive Sleeve Pulley, able to move freely on their respective shafts will be beneficial when setup changes are desired.
On page 2 of the instructions you will find the following
This part of the instructions is not possible to follow. The user must make these adjustments and replacements. You have already done item 5.4 Never loosen special size set screws holding pulley sheaves.
These are factory set and tightened.
5 If replacement of bushings is needed, entire unit should be
returned to factory
"I broke the head-stock pulley trying to get it off, snapped a bit of the edge off the 2" side, crapo! should have been more careful. All belts and pulleys on order"
That is a problem since the bore is 13/16 as I remember which is not available anywhere that I know of. So I am not sure what pulley he ordered.

John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
- myfathersworkshop
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- myfathersworkshop
- Gold Member
- Posts: 22
- Joined: Tue Dec 31, 2024 1:39 pm
- Location: Memphis,TN
- Contact:
Re: speed changer help
is that not the correct pulley?
Thought for sure I'd find the set screw in my collection of nuts and bolts, but not so far.
Thought for sure I'd find the set screw in my collection of nuts and bolts, but not so far.