mid-'50s shopsmith disassembling and cleaning -- help

[beeg]

My machinist question has more to do with whether people do this -- do they go to machinists to get bearings replaced? Or is this not possible? The Drive Sleeve Assembly bearings are the worst.

Edward, have you checked the price of a new one? Might be cheaper and less hassle than having the bearing replaced.
People have replaced the certain bearings themselves, others have had it done.

[etc92guy]

Motor sheave squeaking - Depends where the sound is coming from. If you have a mechanics stethoscope ( $1.99 at Harbor Freight on the last sale ) you can determine the general area of the squeak.

AFTER you get the motor out of the pan, draw a diagram of the wiring connections. Undo the connections. Then undo the screw on the back of the motor opposite the sheave. This will undo the bracket that holds the capacitor and the relay. Make yourself a jig from a 1" or thicker board ( preferably hardwood ). Drill a 1 1/2" hole partially through the center of the board and then drill a 1" hole ALL the way through. This jig will allow you to compress the motor sheave spring and remove the internal snap ring without bothering SWMBO.

When the spring is off, set the motor with the mounts facing up. Pull the outboard sheave off. The inboard sheave is held in place with a set screw. Look down the cooling slot between the front motor mounts and rotate the motor shaft until you see the set screw. Undo the set screw and pull the key and the inboard sheave off the shaft. Behind the sheave there is a spacer to keep the sheave from hitting the motor. That should slide off also. It should not be compressed, dented, or deformed in any way. If it is order a new one.

Okay, now spin the shaft on the motor. If it squeaks it's the bearings inside the motor. I to have a 1956 greenie and found the bearings to be dry. On the back side of the motor where the capacitor/relay was you'll find (4) 1/4" bolt heads. These bolts run through the motor to the front fan housing where you will see 4 recessed nuts. Undo the bolts (keep track of the nuts) and pull them out. Lift the back motor plate off. There is a spring metal piece in the recess that the back bearing sits in. Keep track of that also. You'll see the end of the shaft and the bearing ( big silver thick disk ). Grab that and ease the shaft assembly out trying not to drag the magnet on the coils. Congrats! Your motor is apart.

Now spin the bearings. Do they grind or squeak? If so they need to be replaced. You can buy a bearing puller and do it yourself ( Bill Mayo has replacement sealed bearings ) or it has been suggested to me that you could go to a alternator shop and they could pull/replace/press new bearings on for you.

Assembly is the reverse of the above steps. New bearings are around $10.00 for the pair. A new motor from SS was around $325 last I saw. If your windings are good and the shaft is good, well, the adventure is up to you.

And, as long as you have it this far apart, how's the 1950's power cord? I replaced mine with a grounded one ( future post in the maint. sect. coming ).

You can do this. The SS seems complicated, but it's deceptively simple. And we'll help!!!!!:D

[billmayo]

etcguy: Kroil sounds good. Thanks.

bill and charles: I figured out the setscrew. It was filled with lead. I didn't think it was because the other one wasn't. Alas.

Thanks for the lube info. Will be watching those sessions soon.

I was able to disassemble the quill feed assembly. In fact, everything is off except the motor, which awaits the Kroil. Everything is also clean now except the motor mount.

Before I start reassembling and lubing, a couple new questions. The sheave on the motor squeaks when I spin it with my hand. Bad? Okay?

My machinist question has more to do with whether people do this -- do they go to machinists to get bearings replaced? Or is this not possible? The Drive Sleeve Assembly bearings are the worst. Quill only okay.

As for holes for lubing, looks like previous owner took care of it. I have holes in all the right places. But that raises another question: do I need to somehow clean inside those holes? When I cleaned everything, I was basically cleaning surfaces, between teeth, that kind of thing.

Again, many thanks to all of you.

Is the drive belt still on the motor sheave when you hear the queak. If the belt was still attached, I use "belt condiioner" from an auto store on the belt as they can queak when dried out from nonuse. Make sure the back of the fan sheave has 1/8"-1/4" clearence from the motor plate. If no belt, then the motor bearings will need replacement. If you invest in a Harbor Freight Bearing Separator and Puller Set #93980 on sale for $29.99 now, you could replace the motor and drive sleeve bearings yourself. There are other posts on disassembling the motor. This is what I used for many years. Just take the bearings to a local bearing store for the proper size. Note which bearing came from each end of the motor as some are different sizes. Most electric motor shop will charge from $50-$75 to replace the motor bearings.

I use a lint free rag and small screwdriver to clean the sleeve and oil hole in the control sheaves first. I turn the control sheave with the bearing end down and drop about a dozen drops of "Zoom Sprout Turbine Oil" into the sleeve. This oil should soak through the bearing after a while. I then rotate the control sheave hold the retaining loop and feel for any roughness. If any roughness, I replace the control sheave. I clean the inside of the motor floating sheave the same way and put a few drops of Turbine Oil on the key located in the motor shaft before installing the floating sheave.

[bucksaw]

There's good chance your headstock or headstock casing was replaced with a later model if you have inspection holes. Are you upper output shafts Black or Silver. Greenies (50's) are Silver and later models are Black. If you have Black you have the PolyV drive system. The Greenie drive system was a Gilmar.

[edward]

I can't get the forum to load at home so I'm posting from work.

I haven't given up, but I'm a little nervous about replacing bearings. I just don't think I have the tools (besides the tool Mayo suggested). So I may call a machinist. Not that I have the money for that, but I can at least call.

Will be posting later with any progress... Thanks again folks.

[JPG]

There's good chance your headstock or headstock casing was replaced with a later model if you have inspection holes. Are you upper output shafts Black or Silver. Greenies (50's) are Silver and later models are Black. If you have Black you have the PolyV drive system. The Greenie drive system was a Gilmar.

My 'goldie' is "silver". I believe the black oxide on the quill (as well as just about all other 'bare steel' accessories is a "ShopSmith Inc." indicator!

[mickyd]

I can't get the forum to load at home so I'm posting from work.

I haven't given up, but I'm a little nervous about replacing bearings. I just don't think I have the tools (besides the tool Mayo suggested). So I may call a machinist. Not that I have the money for that, but I can at least call.

Will be posting later with any progress... Thanks again folks.

Don't hesitate to change all the bearing yourself. Using the tool Bill Mayo suggested makes it a snap. I just did mine and it was simple AND I saved myself money. The tool was a $30 investment but unless you know of a cheap source to do the install for you, it will cost you more than that. PLUS, there's nothing like the feeling of satisfaction knowing you did it yourself.

[mickyd]

Now it's all disassembled.

I CANNOT turn the screws that hold the motor. Tried WD-40. Twice.

Thanks for all the help, folks.

The problem with your getting the screws out is probably long solved but, here's a tool EVERY workshop should have to stubborn screws.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=93481

I needed it to take the screws off the hold the motor to the motor pan. It's environmentally friendly too!!

[edward]

No sir, it was not long solved. But it is now thanks to your excellent suggestion. Ah, the satisfaction of freeing those dadgum screws.

While at HF I bit the bullet and bought Bill's Bearing Separator and Puller set. Now I just need to figure out how to use and get those bearings out.

Time to get to work. Thanks for all the tips. Etcguy, I'll be using your instructions for the motor (it's definitely the bearings in there). I'll also be pulling the bearings in the drive sleeve and maybe the quill.

Any tips that come to mind, let me know. Thanks.

[JPG]

No sir, it was not long solved. But it is now thanks to your excellent suggestion. Ah, the satisfaction of freeing those dadgum screws.

While at HF I bit the bullet and bought Bill's Bearing Separator and Puller set. Now I just need to figure out how to use and get those bearings out.

Time to get to work. Thanks for all the tips. Etcguy, I'll be using your instructions for the motor (it's definitely the bearings in there). I'll also be pulling the bearings in the drive sleeve and maybe the quill.

Any tips that come to mind, let me know. Thanks.

I was about to tell you the 'impact' gadget works better if you keep the 'slop' off the screw by rotating the 'gadget' with each blow, but apparently you got it done. HURRAY!!!:)