Lathe Tool Rests ... What is This?

[Cheechako]

Me thinks you already implemented this solution before you even started this thread...

Nope. This thread, like my life, is a work-in-progress...

[JPG]

Curious why you did not simply finish the tap in drill press mode?

For those wondering about the back side weakness inducing hole - who ever was responsible for tapping the OEM holes did not have long enough tooling(tap etc.) to reach the boss from the front side so they tapped it from the back thus requiring a larger hole.

OH I like thy thinking and procedures. I would have drilled a plot hole for the F drill.

FWIW when the 5xx tool rest mount was designed, I do not think those fancy quick release partial turn thingies had been thought of yet.

Apparently the length of the SS tool kit was not considered when lengthening the mount reach.

So the steel stick is pre-mixed and only requires kneading?

Re the hole location model 10 vs Mark 5 .... remember the 10 has a cast iron tool rest mount with a thicker boss.

[chapmanruss]

Cheechako,

The picture I previously posted of the Model 10E Lathe Tool Rest was the early one. For some reason the engineers decided to change the Arm for later Model 10's to the one pictured below. Note the new location for the set screw to lock the Tool Rest.

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105-2 Tool Rest Arm.jpg (239.32 KiB) Viewed 154 times

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That was the Arm used for most of the Model 10 production and could be what the Mark 5 Lathe Tool Rest Arm was modeled after for the set screw location. The Mark 5 replaced the Model 10ER in 1954 as Magna Engineering Corporation's 5 in 1 Tool. As JPG said those Model 10 Arms were thicker Cast Iron. The Arm for the Mark 5/V has always been Aluminum Cast and the original Arm was shorter until the Mark V 510 was introduced with the wider Carriage. That's when the longer dual position Arm began.

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Lathe Tool Rest Assembly - Grennie.JPG (70.33 KiB) Viewed 154 times

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Also as JPG said,

FWIW when the 5xx tool rest mount was designed, I do not think those fancy quick release partial turn thingies had been thought of yet.

I'm pretty sure he is correct as the Mark 5 went on sale in March of 1954.

It would be nice if Shopsmith redesigned the Lathe Tool Rest Arm to have the Tool Rest lock on the side of the Arm (like you have done) instead of its current location. That change would make tapping the hole for the lock lever much easier too.

[JPG]

My thought re mount REdesign was referring to the later 505/510 in the 80's.

I need to check the tool kit length mount length issue. I am thinking the short arm of the SS tool kit clears the mount.

[RFGuy]

Me thinks you already implemented this solution before you even started this thread...

Nope. This thread, like my life, is a work-in-progress...

I only said that because I have seen a few posts like this in the past, where someone poses a problem to the forum, they get a few responses, then posts their homegrown solution right away. IF someone has a solution, I would prefer they up front post that. I don't enjoy those discovery type threads where someone pretends to have a problem to solicit feedback, then immediately post their unique solution to it. I trust you at your word that this isn't the case. I was just curious if you already fixed it before starting the thread. Please indulge me for expressing my frustration over this pet peeve of mine on prior threads.

As long as that tool rest arm holds up for you, it looks like a good solution. Some Shopsmith woodturners have reported that there is a weakness in the arm and has been known to break for a few owners. Reported both on this forum but also on the FB Shopsmith group. The UTR is expensive, new at least, and heavy. IF you committed to it, you would want to remove it when not turning. I wouldn't recommend it be in place for any other operations. It is a beast though, so less prone to the tool rest arm breaking, and very stable.

[Cheechako]

I don't enjoy those discovery type threads where someone pretends to have a problem to solicit feedback, then immediately post their unique solution to it.

I agree with your sentiments. Actually, I was disappointed the new attachments I purchased were fashioned differently from the original that came with the 510 and were now capturing the set screw in the recess. I posted my initial question having no idea what I was going to do. I was actually planning on grinding down the nubbin on the new attachments but was cautioned against by one of the replies. Not knowing how to solve this, I kept staring at my SS, and then it hit me...just move the set screw to the side, and the problem would be gone. I had prior experience with Steel Stick for other metal-to-metal bonding, so the pieces just fell in place quickly after that. As you can see, it really only involved going to the hardware store for a flange nut, drilling out the new location, running a tap, and done...Thanks for your input.

[Cheechako]

Curious why you did not simply finish the tap in drill press mode?

Slippage. The tap started to slip in the chuck, so I just finished by hand.

[Cheechako]

...For those wondering about the back side weakness inducing hole - who ever was responsible for tapping the OEM holes did not have long enough tooling(tap etc.) to reach the boss from the front side so they tapped it from the back thus requiring a larger hole.

...I would have drilled a plot hole for the F drill.

...So the steel stick is pre-mixed and only requires kneading?

- Today I plugged the back side hole with Steel Stick. Easy Peasy.

- The Steel Stick is a two layered putty, a layer of activator wrapped around the layer of resin. You mix the two by kneading for 20-30 secs. Try it. You will like it!

- Actually, I did pre-drill with a size E bit, but left that detail out b/c my post was already too wordy...BTW the SS drill press was so good it went through the aluminum like butter. Childs play..

[JPG]

I would be inclined to credit a sharp bit for the butter penetration.