Essential table saw accessories

[kas20amc02]

Hi everyone. I’m both new to SS and a pretty inexperienced woodworker. In regards to the SS table saw, what are the essential components for safety and functionality? I have a few standard blades, rip fence, upper/lower saw guards with riving knife, feather board and push sticks/blocks.

The other ideas I have heard people talk about are a thin rip jig, professionally built/homemade cross cut sled, zero clearance insert, set up blocks, SS riving knife for non through cuts, and dado blade.

I’m not a guy who buys stuff just to have it but do these items (or others I didn’t mention) help?

Many thanks,
Karl




https://www.amazon.com/Repetitive-Narro ... YXRm&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/WEN-10423-1-Inch ... 9338&psc=1

https://www.shopsmith.com/product-page/ ... mark-v-500

[DLB]

You didn't mention a miter gauge, this is a basic necessity unless you're only doing rip cuts. You also did not mention which model you have, so while I like (but don't necessarily need) the non-through cut riving knife it does not fit Model 500 and earlier. A dado blade is certainly useful, but there are other ways to cut a dado or rabbet. The other items you mention, to me, would not qualify as 'essential components for safety and functionality' though many are nice to have depending on the type of work you are doing. I would add a miter jig to the list if you are doing many 45 degree miters. For models that have a fence with a T-slot on top, I like the fence mounted featherboard (https://www.shopsmith.com/product-page/ ... 20s-mark-4) because it applies downward force. (The ad lists certain models, but I believe it works with any SS model with a T-slot on top of the fence.)

The thin rip jig you linked likely won't work with the SS table without modification. SS miter slots are non-standard in terms of size.

- David

[larryhrockisland]

I have everything in your list except a thin rip jig, I very seldom need to make a bunch of thin strips. Here is a video on MyGrowthRings with a different method. The jig on Amazon is for 3/4” miter slots and the SS tables miter slots are narrower, also the one shown is for a T slot. You didn’t mention which model you have but the Mark V/500 does not have T slots. I personally would not want move fence for every cut.
https://youtu.be/U9Rt3IkcW08?si=peW8FCDSX5fxODVI

[kas20amc02]

My apologies for the lack of details.

I have an inherited 510. I DO have a miter gauge which seems fully functional.

[kas20amc02]

I have everything in your list except a thin rip jig, I very seldom need to make a bunch of thin strips. Here is a video on MyGrowthRings with a different method. The jig on Amazon is for 3/4” miter slots and the SS tables miter slots are narrower, also the one shown is for a T slot. You didn’t mention which model you have but the Mark V/500 does not have T slots. I personally would not want move fence for every cut.
https://youtu.be/U9Rt3IkcW08?si=peW8FCDSX5fxODVI

Thanks for the video link. That is a good idea and nearly free to make.

[chapmanruss]

You can make thin rip cuts with what you have already depending on how thin you want to make them. To do it similar to the jig you linked to, the Miter can lock in the Main Table and act as your thickness gauge with a rod attached in the Miter through the holes for the Miter Gauge Stop Rod to act as your thickness gauge. There isn't much space between the Miter and the Blade though. The other option would be using the Fence Straddler (shown below) and set the thickness of the cut between the Fence and Blade. That method doesn't require moving the fence for each cut. Down side is not using the Upper Saw Blade Guard. You are limited in the minimum thickness of the cut to the thickness of the Fence Straddler. Cutting thin strips is a function where a "zero" clearance Table Insert would be preferred. Making strips with the jig as shown in Scott's video would be the preferred way.

As for the Thin Rip Jig, as larryhrockisland said,

I personally would not want move fence for every cut.

and I agree.

_

Fence Straddler 500 - 510 A.jpg (73.61 KiB) Viewed 202 times

.
Newer Safety Kit items are red instead of the original gray.

As for the WEN 10423 3 x 2 x 1-Inch Steel-Hardened Precision 123 Blocks, Two Pack in the second link I am not sure how you would use them for a Shopsmith.

Alignments can be done fairly accurately without special tools. Alignments are covered in the manual. For more precision alignments other items can be used. I do have an Alignment Steel Disk I mount on the Arbor and the Dial Indicator Gauge Shopsmith sells (SKU 556110) since I have restored many Shopsmith tools and have them aligned ready to use when I sell them.

I have a Cross Cut Sled I made. Surprisingly with all the OEM Shopsmith stuff I have it is one item I made as opposed to buying one. It is more stable when cutting longer stock than using the Miter.

[kas20amc02]

Thanks everyone for your advice and tips. I am taking notes and am glad I have most of the essential equipment. Anything else you can send my way would be appreciated.

Karl

[edflorence]

a thin rip jig, professionally built/homemade cross cut sled, zero clearance insert, set up blocks, SS riving knife for non through cuts, and dado blade.

Many thanks,
Karl

Hi Karl-
Welcome to this very informative forum and congrats on your new to you Shopsmith. There are many folks on this site with great understanding of the mechanical aspects of the machine and they are a wealth of information. I have learned a lot here...and, I have also learned a lot about the machine's capabilities by woodworking with my 500 for more decades than I care to count. Based on my experiences and not knowing exactly what sort of woodworking you are planning to do, my opinion on the items listed in your question is as follows:

Thin rip jig...lots of ways to rip strips without one. Search You Tube.
Cross-Cut Sled...Essential. I like the one SS sells. Buy it or make one similar. Ignore most sleds you find on line.
Zero Clearance Insert...Essential. May interfere with dust collection but will likely avoid kicking back a sharp lance
Set Up Blocks...Handy, not essential. I use key way stock purchased for pennies at my local hardware store. Works great.
SS riving Knife for non-through cuts... Not an option on the 500. Probably a wise move, though.
Dado Blade...Wait to purchase until you have a project that requires it. I have both a dado stack and a wobble dado. The wobble dado is great for non-cabinet quality projects.

Items you did not mention but that I would recommend are: dust collector, air filter, tight fitting face mask, feather boards, adjustable stop collar (this one qualifies as an Essential), additional regular stop collars, good quality carbide blades...rip, x-c and combo, and a copy of Power Tool Woodworking for Everyone.

Hope this helps

[RFGuy]

Karl,

Some very good feedback already. Might be more of a nice to have, but I love the Jessem Clear-Cut TS™ Stock Guides. At the link below, I show it mounted on my 520 fence, but others have mounted it on their 510 fence. I only had one kickback on my 510 at the time and I have been woodworking for over three decades, but that one kickback was enough for me. Since installing my Jessem Clear-Cut guides I haven't had any kickbacks. I know it is still possible, but I feel much more confident using my 520 as a tablesaw now than I did before I owned these guides. The wheels are canted in 5° so as you push a board through a rip cut it is kept tight against the rip fence. Also significant downward pressure on the board to help minimize a kickback. Something to consider when your budget allows. I am glad Ed brought up dust collection. What do you have for dust collection today? The really fine stuff (<0.3µm) that gets in the air, that you can't see, is really hazardous to your lungs. I have had both family and friends I know in the woodworking business significantly impacted by this. I am a just a hobbyist woodworker but I still worry about it because my shop is in my garage and it is attached to my home, so sawdust can ingress through a shared doorway to my home. I really think every woodworker should have a laser particle counter to track dust particulates in the air of their shop. I have the Dylos DC1100, but it is around $200. Another Ed from this forum, in the past, found a cheaper alternative. There is a Chinese knockoff module that is mostly equivalent to the Dylos for $43 on Amazon. Can't everyone afford $43 for their shop to monitor how much sawdust is in the air? You can find links for these at the second thread listed below. I used these to fine tune my dust collection setup, i.e. getting proper seals in place. So most operations in my shop don't put out too much of the fine dust into the air, but of course things like sanding unleash A LOT of dust in the air. I have an overhead air cleaner and I know to run it on high and for an extended time period when I see the levels get too high in my shop. Hope this helps.

viewtopic.php?t=22171
viewtopic.php?p=317205#p317205

[kas20amc02]

Hi guys. Thanks for the additional tips. I have read through the posts a few times and there are certainly some things I don’t understand yet. For example, what is a “key way stock?”

For sawdust collection, I have been using a shop vac in conjunction with a N95 mask. I’m using the extra space in my detached three car garage for my work area.

For pending projects, I would like to make some open topped wooden boxes for my daughter and a few picture frames, including one with a slot for kid’s artwork to rotate in and out. I’m currently making some mahjong tile racks. These have proved much harder to make with a table saw, then the 4 inch models I made with a band saw.

I plan on reading your posts a few more times when I get some more time. I appreciate the tips.

Thanks,
Karl