Hello Everyone! I am restoring my second 10ER which has a broken Lug Guide p/n A 2250 found on the belt tension assembly screw of the speed changer. I've searched marketplace, ebay, and craigs list with no luck finding a replacement part.
Does anyone know where I may find just this broken lug guide part? I'm sure that I can remove the handle to replace it.
Thanks in advance for any information to help!
10ER Broken Lug Guide A 2250
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10ER Broken Lug Guide A 2250
Paul
Mark V s/n 40096 1-1/8HP Poly
Mark V s/n 377998 1-1/8HP Gilmer
Mark V s/n 112791 model 555540
SS 4-inch Jointer model 555463 s/n 123092
SS Bandsaw s/n 122791 model 555507
SS 4-inch Jointer model 505681 s/n 10754
SS 10E s/n 4965
SS 10ER s/n 69535 with speed changer
Mark V s/n 40096 1-1/8HP Poly
Mark V s/n 377998 1-1/8HP Gilmer
Mark V s/n 112791 model 555540
SS 4-inch Jointer model 555463 s/n 123092
SS Bandsaw s/n 122791 model 555507
SS 4-inch Jointer model 505681 s/n 10754
SS 10E s/n 4965
SS 10ER s/n 69535 with speed changer
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chapmanruss
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 4523
- Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2014 8:16 pm
- Location: near Portland, Oregon
Re: 10ER Broken Lug Guide A 2250
pprime,
Getting that section of the Speed Changer apart is not difficult unless the damage makes it hard to get it off the C2249 Base - Bracket. What is difficult is finding just the individual part circled in the parts diagram below. Keep an eye out for a broken Speed Changer being sold for parts which is generally cheaper than the over $200 price they usually sell for. Another option is buying a Model 10E or 10ER that has a Speed Changer which can sometimes be found for less than that over $200 price they often sell for. I am a little surprised the Lug Guide is damaged as that is not what most often gets broken on the Speed Changer.
_
Getting that section of the Speed Changer apart is not difficult unless the damage makes it hard to get it off the C2249 Base - Bracket. What is difficult is finding just the individual part circled in the parts diagram below. Keep an eye out for a broken Speed Changer being sold for parts which is generally cheaper than the over $200 price they usually sell for. Another option is buying a Model 10E or 10ER that has a Speed Changer which can sometimes be found for less than that over $200 price they often sell for. I am a little surprised the Lug Guide is damaged as that is not what most often gets broken on the Speed Changer.
_
- Speed Changer Parts A 2250.jpg (102.33 KiB) Viewed 145 times
Russ
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's, 2 Power Stations & Crafter's Station
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored.
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's, 2 Power Stations & Crafter's Station
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored.
Re: 10ER Broken Lug Guide A 2250
Thanks Russ!!
Actually, there is a bit more damage to the speed changer that I found 'fixed' by welding it back together. My thought after taking it completely apart and finding that the main pulley (113 200) completely frozen, the previous owner must have really forced it way too much...attached a picture of the fix, not by me. It seems to be solid. The motor pulley is also broken so I think I should be able to find one of those too.
Actually, there is a bit more damage to the speed changer that I found 'fixed' by welding it back together. My thought after taking it completely apart and finding that the main pulley (113 200) completely frozen, the previous owner must have really forced it way too much...attached a picture of the fix, not by me. It seems to be solid. The motor pulley is also broken so I think I should be able to find one of those too.
- Attachments
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- Repaired C2249
- 607FAE2F-7221-4C69-991B-F566F29F8DCD_1_105_c.jpeg (227.43 KiB) Viewed 134 times
Paul
Mark V s/n 40096 1-1/8HP Poly
Mark V s/n 377998 1-1/8HP Gilmer
Mark V s/n 112791 model 555540
SS 4-inch Jointer model 555463 s/n 123092
SS Bandsaw s/n 122791 model 555507
SS 4-inch Jointer model 505681 s/n 10754
SS 10E s/n 4965
SS 10ER s/n 69535 with speed changer
Mark V s/n 40096 1-1/8HP Poly
Mark V s/n 377998 1-1/8HP Gilmer
Mark V s/n 112791 model 555540
SS 4-inch Jointer model 555463 s/n 123092
SS Bandsaw s/n 122791 model 555507
SS 4-inch Jointer model 505681 s/n 10754
SS 10E s/n 4965
SS 10ER s/n 69535 with speed changer
-
chapmanruss
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 4523
- Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2014 8:16 pm
- Location: near Portland, Oregon
Re: 10ER Broken Lug Guide A 2250
pprime,
In case others check out this topic I am adding more than just a comment on your broken Speed Changer.
Motor Pulleys are easy to replace. I have purchased new ones that are still available from companies making many different sizes and types of Pulleys.
That is a common break point of the Base Bracket usually caused by trying to turn the crank past the point of actually adjusting the speed. Something to watch out for is having the Lock Nut turned too much compressing the Springs as shown in the broken one below. I have seen that repair on other Speed changers and if properly done they seem to work fine. That Lock Nut should only be on far enough to hold the parts in place without compressing the Springs. When adjusting the speed up or down stop turning the Screw Assembly (crank) when one of the Springs first start to compress.
_
.
Another common place for the Base Bracket to break is through the mounting hole. Never over tighten the Nut on the Long Motor Mount Set Screw that holds the Speed Changer against the Headstock. When moving the Headstock, it is best to loosen the nut to help avoid the Speed Changer from binding on the Way Tubes following the Headstock. Here is one that was broken and repaired.
_
.
An unusual place I have found, actually on a Speed Changer that came with a Model 10 I purchased is shown below. I can't explain how it happened but does show why care should be taken when handling these Speed Changers.
_
.
The Floating Pulley Assembly having problems are usually caused by a lack of proper lubrication unless dropped and broken. I had one "froze" up that required using a press to get it apart. I was able to "clean" it up and get it back to usable condition. Something to check on the Floating Pulley Assembly is the Oilite Bearings (seen below) for excessive wear.
_
.
Lastly for anyone needing it is a PDF of the Speed Changer instructions.
.
In case others check out this topic I am adding more than just a comment on your broken Speed Changer.
Motor Pulleys are easy to replace. I have purchased new ones that are still available from companies making many different sizes and types of Pulleys.
That is a common break point of the Base Bracket usually caused by trying to turn the crank past the point of actually adjusting the speed. Something to watch out for is having the Lock Nut turned too much compressing the Springs as shown in the broken one below. I have seen that repair on other Speed changers and if properly done they seem to work fine. That Lock Nut should only be on far enough to hold the parts in place without compressing the Springs. When adjusting the speed up or down stop turning the Screw Assembly (crank) when one of the Springs first start to compress.
_
- broken ear arrow.jpg (179.54 KiB) Viewed 60 times
Another common place for the Base Bracket to break is through the mounting hole. Never over tighten the Nut on the Long Motor Mount Set Screw that holds the Speed Changer against the Headstock. When moving the Headstock, it is best to loosen the nut to help avoid the Speed Changer from binding on the Way Tubes following the Headstock. Here is one that was broken and repaired.
_
- Repaired Speed Changer 1.jpg (452.93 KiB) Viewed 59 times
An unusual place I have found, actually on a Speed Changer that came with a Model 10 I purchased is shown below. I can't explain how it happened but does show why care should be taken when handling these Speed Changers.
_
- Broken Speed Changer 2.jpg (142.44 KiB) Viewed 60 times
The Floating Pulley Assembly having problems are usually caused by a lack of proper lubrication unless dropped and broken. I had one "froze" up that required using a press to get it apart. I was able to "clean" it up and get it back to usable condition. Something to check on the Floating Pulley Assembly is the Oilite Bearings (seen below) for excessive wear.
_
- Oilite Bearings.jpg (122.1 KiB) Viewed 60 times
Lastly for anyone needing it is a PDF of the Speed Changer instructions.
.
Variable Speed Changer 01-53 2p plus troubleshooting.pdf- (139.93 KiB) Downloaded 14 times
Russ
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's, 2 Power Stations & Crafter's Station
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored.
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's, 2 Power Stations & Crafter's Station
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored.