Shopsmith to route mortise and tenon joints??

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shophaven
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Joined: Fri Jan 30, 2009 3:47 am
Location: Palmer, Alaska

Coffee table prototye

Post by shophaven »

Charlese-
Working on the cheap . . . I just went over to our local "Builders Bargains" here in Wasilla, Alaska and bought some scrap counter top laminate that happened to match our living room carpet nicely.
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robinson46176
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Location: Central Indiana (Shelbyville)

Post by robinson46176 »

In my shop I actually sometimes use hand tools, you know, those dusty things that don't have cords or batteries. :D :D
I do have a couple of SS mortising attachments but don't like the flex in the Mark V unless it is supported underneath. I expect to use the 10-ER for mortising since it is a lot more rigid with much heavier way tubes and the rest being all cast iron. I believe the mortising attachment was originally designed for it. For many years SS didn't recommend the mortising attachment for the Mark V IIRC.
I have used the rounding over of the tenons with a rasp a time or two. I often use doweling or biscuits rather than M & T if I feel it is appropriate. I am a card carrying maverick and do very little just because everybody else does it that way or because "you are supposed to do it that way". :)
I was thinking about the mention of using two dowels at the ends and sliding the tenon in between them which is kind of innovative. I have not tried it but the thought crosses my mind (a desolate barren place with lots of wind and tumbleweed) :D Of splitting some doweling in half lengthwise (probably bandsaw) and using a half piece at each end instead of a whole round dowel. Maybe I saw that on TV somewhere?
--
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

robinson46176 wrote:In my shop I actually sometimes use hand tools, you know, those dusty things that don't have cords or batteries. :D :D
I do have a couple of SS mortising attachments but don't like the flex in the Mark V unless it is supported underneath. I expect to use the 10-ER for mortising since it is a lot more rigid with much heavier way tubes and the rest being all cast iron. I believe the mortising attachment was originally designed for it. For many years SS didn't recommend the mortising attachment for the Mark V IIRC.
I have used the rounding over of the tenons with a rasp a time or two. I often use doweling or biscuits rather than M & T if I feel it is appropriate. I am a card carrying maverick and do very little just because everybody else does it that way or because "you are supposed to do it that way". :)
I was thinking about the mention of using two dowels at the ends and sliding the tenon in between them which is kind of innovative. I have not tried it but the thought crosses my mind (a desolate barren place with lots of wind and tumbleweed) :D Of splitting some doweling in half lengthwise (probably bandsaw) and using a half piece at each end instead of a whole round dowel. Maybe I saw that on TV somewhere?
From one 'maverick' to another: Interesting thoughts on altering a 'weird' method. I do NOT think you are 'blowing in the wind'.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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