Re-saw Fence

curiousgeorge · Post by **curiousgeorge** » Fri Mar 20, 2009 12:16 pm

Do you re-saw on your SS band saw? If so, what is your fence set-up when doing so? If you use something other than the standard fence, please include pics. Also, what blade(s) do you use for re-sawing?

Gene Howe · Post by **Gene Howe** » Fri Mar 20, 2009 12:39 pm

George, I use a 1/2" and a 5/8" blade. I use the Kreg miter gauge as a fence, when I use a fence. Sometimes, I cut almost through the work on the table saw before I re- saw. Then I just use a 3/8 blade. Usually, it needs planing, so I don't worry about the thickness left after a table saw + band saw cuts.

ldh · Post by **ldh** » Fri Mar 20, 2009 12:43 pm

curiousgeorge wrote:Do you re-saw on your SS band saw? If so, what is your fence set-up when doing so? If you use something other than the standard fence, please include pics. Also, what blade(s) do you use for re-sawing?

Hi George,
The SS Bandsaw is a great little resaw tool. I use the 5/8" VP blade that SS offers and I think it works well. Many have had success with the Timberwolf blades. Do a search on resawing and you will find several different fences and feather boards that folks use. I have posted several pics of the modifications and odds and ends that I use on the SS Bandsaw, but I can't seem to add them to this post.
ldh

sawdust · Post by **sawdust** » Fri Mar 20, 2009 1:17 pm

Hi George
As to a resaw fence, I use as auxillary fence attached to the miter gauge.
This lets me adujust for blade lead. It has worked well for me on my1980's
model bandsaw. I have also, had good results using either the1/2" or 5/8"
blade.
George
Orcutt,Ca.

beeg · Post by **beeg** » Fri Mar 20, 2009 1:34 pm

Here's what Chuck uses.

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?p=32037&postcount=4

nuhobby · Post by **nuhobby** » Fri Mar 20, 2009 2:07 pm

Hi,
I use the SS bandsaw fence with my own Resaw guide (fully adjustable) bolted to it as shown here:
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=1613

I usually have a 1/2" blade on my machine. Recently got a Timber Wolf type based on good reviews, and I have liked it so far.

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Fri Mar 20, 2009 8:01 pm

Thanks Bob for saving me a "look-up".

I love my jig, but also like the idea of Chris'. Chris' is adjustable for height. On my jig, I cant lower the top blade blocks any lower than permitted by the block of wood (fence). This has been an non-issue so far as the blade stays straight when tensioned to 1/2".

I use a 5/8" skip tooth blade for all re-sawing. Bought them from Shopsmith.

tnerb · Post by **tnerb** » Sat Mar 21, 2009 1:05 am

I have not had good luck with the Timberwolf blades. They dull pretty quick when re-sawing. I thought it was just me, but I was talking to the salesman in Woodcraft and another guy overheard me and said he had the same problem with his Timberwolf blades. For the price they get for them, one would think they ought to stay sharp for longer than they do.

curiousgeorge · Post by **curiousgeorge** » Sun Mar 22, 2009 1:53 am

Thanks everyone for your answers. I know there are probably as many different methods as there are woodworkers, so, I was just wondering what some of them might be.

tnerb wrote:I have not had good luck with the Timberwolf blades. They dull pretty quick when re-sawing. I thought it was just me, but I was talking to the salesman in Woodcraft and another guy overheard me and said he had the same problem with his Timberwolf blades. For the price they get for them, one would think they ought to stay sharp for longer than they do.

tnerb, are you over tightening them? The Timberwolf blades are a low tension blade and I haven't noticed that problem with mine. Just wondering if that may be the problem.

tnerb · Post by **tnerb** » Sun Mar 22, 2009 11:53 pm

George, Not to my knowledge. I tighten them till the flutter just goes away which is way below the normal 1/2" blade tension on the tension gauge.