The second violation is maddening, and I have really tried to stop this stupid practice, with limited success. The Safety cautions us to "...Never reach in toward the bit or beneath it to clear away scraps..." I don't even want to think about the numerous times I've put gouges and scratches on the back of my hands from sweeping away dust. Ive never done this with the machine running - thank goodness!
When I can Chuck, I use the drum sander insert, with the DC3300. Does a good job sucking up the chips and dust. Or other times I'll use the utility pickup.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop. .
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Bob
nuhobby wrote:Regarding this chapter, I would like to try the metal Spot Polishing using the drill-press one time. I have read all issues of Hemmings Classic Car magazine, cover to cover. One guy had an old Chrysler 300, and using this method on his drill-press he reproduced his own "engine turned" dashboard applique.
If I can remember back to High School, (60 yrs ago) the Metal Shop Instructor allowed us do do this kind of polishing. He called it a Damascened (sp?) effect (like the swords). We used wooden dowels with polishing compound dabbed onto the dowel end. Sorry, Don't remember what the magic compound was.
EDIT: Geeze, If I would have read nuhobby's heading on his post - Would have saved a whole lot of time looking up Damascas swords to find a reasonable spelling of the "Word". After my research, it seems there are several spellings - all pronounced about the same.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
I'm going to have to confess to not having read the chapter yet. But I'll try and catch up tomorrow.
The "engine turned" stuff must date back to the 20's you can see it on some of the older cars from back then at car shows (think big $$ cars and a lot of hand work). It then became a "hot rod" thing with dash boards and even firewalls. I've seen guitars and amps with it too. It also works on glass...
I've seen the results but I have never tried it... bet someone here has.
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
reible wrote:I'm going to have to confess to not having read the chapter yet. But I'll try and catch up tomorrow.
The "engine turned" stuff must date back to the 20's you can see it on some of the older cars from back then at car shows (think big $$ cars and a lot of hand work). It then became a "hot rod" thing with dash boards and even firewalls. I've seen guitars and amps with it too. It also works on glass...
I've seen the results but I have never tried it... bet someone here has.
Ed
An x-y table would helpful!
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
After reading the chapter I noticed at least a few things that beginners are not going to know and should be noted.
One is that the drill chuck has 3 holes in it. When trying to tighten a bit in place you should use a minimum of at least 2 of those holes for the tightening. If you are doing metal I would say a minimum of all three.
When getting the bit out of the chuck you may want to use another hole if it doesn't seem to be loosening at the point you are at.
If you do spin a bit it will tear up some metal on the shank... do not attempt to use it with the damage in place, a file can clean it up or even a sharpening stone. Other wise you will get unpredictable results of either the bit loosen or being out of round.
If the bit is wobbling about something is wrong, either it has been mis-aligned in the chuck or perhaps it is bent... not a good thing to try and use it that way.
When hand holding a piece when drilling use the "thumbs up rule" thumbs on the top just like the other fingers... not holding the edge like most people seem to want to do. There are times for opposing thumbs but this is not one of them.
I also see they did not talk about automatic center punches.... what were they thinking???? If you don't know what they are look them up and get at least one.
If I get some time later this week I'll show you a neat trick or at least it will save you some setup time... I'd do it now but I've got to get to bed.
Goodnight all,
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
If you click on the image called figure 7-17 it brings up a larger image like so:
[ATTACH]3662[/ATTACH]
Table 7-2 is a good size table that is easy to read.... ????
[ATTACH]3663[/ATTACH]
Some how it seems we are seeing different things????
Ed
Hi Ed,
The two illustrations, Figure 7-17 and Table 7-2, are overlapping when I view them. I can view Figure 7-17 when I click on it, but I am knot able to see part of the table, as Figure 7-17 is over layed on it. I do have the book, so I can see it just fine, but how is it that you can see the table on-line? Strange.
Tim
Buying US made products will help keep YOUR job or retirement funds safer.
reible wrote:...One is that the drill chuck has 3 holes in it. When trying to tighten a bit in place you should use a minimum of at least 2 of those holes for the tightening. If you are doing metal I would say a minimum of all three...
I was taught to ALWAYS tighten the chuck using all three holes. I notice that I can always get it to tighten just a little more, using the other two holes.
Tim
Buying US made products will help keep YOUR job or retirement funds safer.
a1gutterman wrote:I was taught to ALWAYS tighten the chuck using all three holes. I notice that I can always get it to tighten just a little more, using the other two holes.
AND if the bit IS large, a second time around will help keep it from 'slipping'.
Few things aggravate me more than seeing drill bits with the shank 'boogered up'. This is caused by NOT properly tightening the chuck (keyless chucks ARE a prime culprit).
I prefer inserting the drill bits into the index(box) shank down. Not an easy thing if scarred.
RE: Thumb: First holding work piece with any part of one's body is a BAD IDEA! IF one must, have something in place to STOP workpiece spinning if bit grabs and you lose control of it. This can be something as simple as a c-clamp. Keep in mind the workpiece will probably 'climb' the drill bit if it grabs, so make sure it is tall enough! Better yet, be less aggressive with feed rate so as to minimize the likelihood of it grabbing.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
reible wrote:I also see they did not talk about automatic center punches.... what were they thinking???? If you don't know what they are look them up and get at least one. Ed
Yep, had one of those a couple of decades ago. It wouldn't make punch marks in metal, big enough to help start a bit. Had to use a hand held punch anyway! I threw it out, or gave it to my kid. He loves all kinds of tools! He grew up into a professional tinkerer. Well paid too!
Presently, I use the point on the brad point bits/ Forstner bits to both mark and start holes.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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