I have the bandsaw, but don't know really anything about using it. Do the cooling blocks actually touch the blade? What about tightening? I've never adjusted mine since I bought it; how do I know when to do this?
one more: thicker blades mean better cuts or how does that work?
tango
Totally clueless on bandsaw
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JPG
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See limey comments above!tango wrote:I have the bandsaw, but don't know really anything about using it. Do the cooling blocks actually touch the blade?
Just barely. Close enough to 'guide' it but not tight enough to bind it.
What about tightening? I've never adjusted mine since I bought it]Tighten WHAT?[/color]
one more: thicker blades mean better cuts or how does that work?
Thinner blades allow smaller radius cuts. Larger blades are more stable(cut straighter).
tango
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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JPG
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[quote="tango"]Okay, that about sums it up for the most part.
Tighten the saw tension]
Have you had the cover off?
Take it off(three knobs or whatever YOURS has). In the rear about 2/3 to 3/4 of the way towards the top pointing to the rear is a bolt which controls the tension of the blade. You should see a red piece. The edge of the red piece moves along the edge of another piece which has a 'scale' on it. The scale indicates the proper tension setting for different size blades. The red piece is actually a 'bar spring'.
Using your SS tool kit(5/32" allen wrench) adjust the bolt and you will see the red bar move along the edge of the 'scaled' part.
BTW I have recently learned that the tension SHOULD BE RELEASED when NOT using it!
Good AFTERNOON!
Tighten the saw tension]
Have you had the cover off?
Take it off(three knobs or whatever YOURS has). In the rear about 2/3 to 3/4 of the way towards the top pointing to the rear is a bolt which controls the tension of the blade. You should see a red piece. The edge of the red piece moves along the edge of another piece which has a 'scale' on it. The scale indicates the proper tension setting for different size blades. The red piece is actually a 'bar spring'.
Using your SS tool kit(5/32" allen wrench) adjust the bolt and you will see the red bar move along the edge of the 'scaled' part.
BTW I have recently learned that the tension SHOULD BE RELEASED when NOT using it!
Good AFTERNOON!
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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hudsonmiller
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Get some Doco
If you have the manual that came with the bandsaw get it out. Now is the time to read it. There are a number of things to "tighent" - or better said align and set.
Tension is a function of blade width, everything else is an alignment issue. You are looking for a blade that isn't touching but a "breath" on the guides. The roll off and on to the upper and lower tires should be plumb and equal, table needs to be square to the blade.
If you unplug your bandsaw and open the case you should be able to free wheel the blade and hear no rubbing or scrapes etc.
Take your time - a well tuned bandsaw is a dream to use.
Tension is a function of blade width, everything else is an alignment issue. You are looking for a blade that isn't touching but a "breath" on the guides. The roll off and on to the upper and lower tires should be plumb and equal, table needs to be square to the blade.
If you unplug your bandsaw and open the case you should be able to free wheel the blade and hear no rubbing or scrapes etc.
Take your time - a well tuned bandsaw is a dream to use.
Just remember - It's all tool setup.
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johnmccrossen
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Tango,
As stated, if you have the bandsaw owners manual, this will answer nearly any question you have. If you have an older BS and manual, you should get the latest manual from Shopsmith. It is very complete and detailed, especially on alignment. It also explains how to "zero" the red tension indicator bar so you know the tension indicated is correct for each width of blade used. I think the bandsaw is the most useful power tool I have. Good luck, John McCrossen
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/faq/bandsaw.htm
As stated, if you have the bandsaw owners manual, this will answer nearly any question you have. If you have an older BS and manual, you should get the latest manual from Shopsmith. It is very complete and detailed, especially on alignment. It also explains how to "zero" the red tension indicator bar so you know the tension indicated is correct for each width of blade used. I think the bandsaw is the most useful power tool I have. Good luck, John McCrossen
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/faq/bandsaw.htm
John McCrossen
Everett, Wa.
1954 Mk 5 SN 269454, 1955 Mk 5 SN 316013, 1960 Mk 5 SN 360792, 1962 Mk 5 SN 380102, Magna band saw, (2) jointers, (1) belt sander, (1) air compressor, (1) jig saw, (1) strip sander, (1) 20" scroll saw, DC 3300 dust collector, Sawsmith RAS, Craftsman table saw, 13" DeWalt planer, Triton 3 1/4 HP plunge router & table
Everett, Wa.
1954 Mk 5 SN 269454, 1955 Mk 5 SN 316013, 1960 Mk 5 SN 360792, 1962 Mk 5 SN 380102, Magna band saw, (2) jointers, (1) belt sander, (1) air compressor, (1) jig saw, (1) strip sander, (1) 20" scroll saw, DC 3300 dust collector, Sawsmith RAS, Craftsman table saw, 13" DeWalt planer, Triton 3 1/4 HP plunge router & table
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paul heller
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dusty
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The manual that you have is perfectly adequate. There have been very few, if any, changes to the bandsaw that would effect the alignments/adjustments.paul heller wrote:Any idea on when (what year) the "newer" manual was created? Is my manual from the 1990 timeframe "old" or "new"?
Paul
The only changes that I know that are later than that (1990) have to do with the dust collection port and a window that allows for tensioning the bland without removing the cover.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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Dusty
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robinson46176
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hudsonmiller wrote:If you have the manual that came with the bandsaw get it out. Now is the time to read it.
That seems like a kind of radical concept.
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farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
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johnmccrossen
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Paul, The part number for the "newer" bandsaw manual I was referring to is # 845539 published in 09/03 that I got last year from Shopsmith. The link I inserted above shows a bandsaw manual with part # 841547 so I don't know what the date of that one is. Anyway, what I was referring to was a comparison between my old original manual and the newer one (#845539). My old original manual did not include the detailed blade alignment information that is shown in the newer version. Sorry if I confused anyone. John McCrossen
John McCrossen
Everett, Wa.
1954 Mk 5 SN 269454, 1955 Mk 5 SN 316013, 1960 Mk 5 SN 360792, 1962 Mk 5 SN 380102, Magna band saw, (2) jointers, (1) belt sander, (1) air compressor, (1) jig saw, (1) strip sander, (1) 20" scroll saw, DC 3300 dust collector, Sawsmith RAS, Craftsman table saw, 13" DeWalt planer, Triton 3 1/4 HP plunge router & table
Everett, Wa.
1954 Mk 5 SN 269454, 1955 Mk 5 SN 316013, 1960 Mk 5 SN 360792, 1962 Mk 5 SN 380102, Magna band saw, (2) jointers, (1) belt sander, (1) air compressor, (1) jig saw, (1) strip sander, (1) 20" scroll saw, DC 3300 dust collector, Sawsmith RAS, Craftsman table saw, 13" DeWalt planer, Triton 3 1/4 HP plunge router & table