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Restoration Progress On My 1955 Greenie

SDSSmith

mickyd wroteGood questions! You really think a lot. :D I'll check when I get home. My recall is that the way tubes had a greater wall thickness than the bench tube in turn, making them more ridged (heavier) if the OD's are the same.

Don't know if they are original Greenie tubes or not. Maybe some other Greenie's out there can check their tubes for OD, ID. I know I didn't replace them and am not sure about previous genealogy of ownership.

The early Mark V's had bench tubes that were 1-7/8" OD.

mickyd

SDSSmith wroteThe early Mark V's had bench tubes that were 1-7/8" OD.

Rob,

Do you know what the tube inside diameter measured? Were the bench and way tubes different?

JPG

SDSSmith wroteThe early Mark V's had bench tubes that were 1-7/8" OD.

ALL SS waytubes are 1 3/4" OD. The variations are the wall thickness. 10e/r were about 2x as thick as the 'present" ones. They (way tubes) are ALL 52" long. Bench (lower) tubes are 3/4" longer.

I was surprised mike's greenie had the thicker way tubes and wondered(still) if that was 'normal' for all greenies. i.e. Did models other than the 10e/r have heavier tubes. I did not think so since the 'later' models HAVE a second set of tubes(bench) whereas the 10e/r only had the one set of tubes(way)..

When you say 'early' mark V's, WHAT years are relevant. Mark "V" did not come into being until 1972(SS INC.). Previous units were Mark 5's.

mickyd

JPG40504 wroteALL SS waytubes are 1 3/4" OD. The variations are the wall thickness. 10e/r were about 2x as thick as the 'present" ones. They (way tubes) are ALL 52" long. Bench (lower) tubes are 3/4" longer.

I was surprised mike's greenie had the thicker way tubes and wondered(still) if that was 'normal' for all greenies. i.e. Did models other than the 10e/r have heavier tubes. I did not think so since the 'later' models HAVE a second set of tubes(bench) whereas the 10e/r only had the one set of tubes(way)..

When you say 'early' mark V's, WHAT years are relevant. Mark "V" did not come into being until 1972(SS INC.). Previous units were Mark 5's.

I checked my way tubes and my initial response in post #60 was incorrect. I udpated the post accordingly. Both bench and way tubes have the same wall thickness. The difference I had actually observed was in the OD. Way tubes are 1-3/4", bench tubes are 1-7/8". They have identical wall thickness of 1/8". Sorry if I cause confusion.:o

JPG

mickyd wroteI checked my way tubes and my initial response in post #60 was incorrect. I udpated the post accordingly. Both bench and way tubes have the same wall thickness. The difference I had actually observed was in the OD. Way tubes are 1-3/4", bench tubes are 1-7/8". They have identical wall thickness of 1/8". Sorry if I cause confusion.:o

You did NOT cause CONFUSION, you PROVIDED information. As I understand it NOW Greenies have 1 7/8" bench tubes. That is why you needed two different size 'freeze plugs'. Now to determine if early goldies are the same.

mickyd

mickyd wroteI checked my way tubes and my initial response in post #60 was incorrect. I udpated the post accordingly. Both bench and way tubes have the same wall thickness. The difference I had actually observed was in the OD. Way tubes are 1-3/4", bench tubes are 1-7/8". They have identical wall thickness of 1/8". Sorry if I cause confusion.:o

I also corrected the error I made on specifying the expansion plug sizes needed for the bench and way tubes in post #29.of this thread.

SDSSmith

mickyd wroteRob,

Do you know what the tube inside diameter measured? Were the bench and way tubes different?

Mike, I do not have any of those tubes around right now so I cannot measure for you. As noted, all Mark v's have 1-3/4" OD way tubes.

robinson46176

JPG40504 wroteNow to determine if early goldies are the same.

And were all goldies shipped with the "glazed" bench tubes instead of polished?

*

Some bench tubes I have painted and some I have polished... I have mixed emotions. The polished ones look good but have to be waxed often especially in a shop that makes stuff sweat in mild weather. So far the painted tubes are holding up nicely and still look good. In a shop where they might get scratched a lot (I'm not sure why) the polished ones might look good longer. While the polished bench tubes do have to be waxed often the way tubes need to be waxed often anyway and it is easy to wax the bench tubes at the same time so it all comes out about the same.

JPG

robinson46176 wroteAnd were all goldies shipped with the "glazed" bench tubes instead of polished?

*

Some bench tubes I have painted and some I have polished... I have mixed emotions. The polished ones look good but have to be waxed often especially in a shop that makes stuff sweat in mild weather. So far the painted tubes are holding up nicely and still look good. In a shop where they might get scratched a lot (I'm not sure why) the polished ones might look good longer. While the polished bench tubes do have to be waxed often the way tubes need to be waxed often anyway and it is easy to wax the bench tubes at the same time so it all comes out about the same.

I am guessing, but I think the early goldies differ from the greenies only in color. The later goldies(1 1/8HP,poly=v,extruded rip fence lip) have 1 3/4" Gray painted Bench tubes. Just because this makes sense, does NOT make it so! Hence the guessing part.

mickyd

mickyd wrote
Make sure to post pics bucksaw.

I am going to try a flap sanding wheel (80grit) on a dremel tool for the next piece. They sell for about $8. It seems like it will lend itself better to "feeling" and seeing what your doing. Read the thread on the other forum about "Polishing contoured surfaces" and see how the guy describes the "feel' in postGeneral Woodworking.

When I get the flap wheel mastered, I'll graduate to the next level, working my way up the amperage chain. Pretty soon, 15 amp, 2-1/4 HP ANGLE GRINDER shaving off a few 1/10,000th of an inch with the precision of a surgeon...boy it'll be a thing of beauty!!

I scratched the idea of using the flap sanding wheel for the dremel tool. The more I thought about paying $8 for the thing, and having only two grit choices, 80 and 120grit, I decided to use the sandpaper and equipment I already had. I decided to give my Ryobi random orbital a try. The 100% hand sanding method I used prior HAD TO GO. Took too long and was too tedious.

Here is the setup I came up with to hold the Ryobi so that I could control with work piece with two hands.

With the knob pieces so small, it&#8217]3696[/ATTACH]

I put the mirror and sandpaper up on a 2”x 3” so that I could rotate the part without the “wings” hitting. I rubbed the part against the sandpaper which stayed down of the 2” x 3”. That was the best way to keep it true.

Using the sander to get through the surface pits saved a boatload of time. Instead of it taking 4 hours to complete 1 piece through the buffing process, I was able to do 2 pieces in 2 hours. Just a couple pieces more to go and I am done. Here’s the finished feed stop knob. You'll notice a little divot on the top of the right wing, near the OD. My sander slipped in the vise. Bummer but I’ll live with it. Driving by 60 miles per hour, you’ll never notice it!! Well, that's it for polishing pics. You seen one, you've seen 'em all.

p.s. Use good quality sandpaper. It makes a difference. I had purchase some odd brand from Harbor Freight, real cheap, and it was exactly that…….REAL CHEAP. It just didn’t hold up. I would go through it twice as fast as the good stuff. Stick with name brand (i.e. Norton, 3M etc.)

JPG

mickyd wrote
WOW, huge difference in the handles . . . .I'll have to make up a wood version mounted on the same steel shaft. Gee, my first lathe project!! A wooden handle is what originally got me looking into "needing" a ShopSmith . . . .

Thought you could/might use after IT is up & running!😃

a1gutterman

mickyd wrote...p.s. Use good quality sandpaper. It makes a difference. I had purchase some odd brand from Harbor Freight, real cheap, and it was exactly that…….REAL CHEAP. It just didn’t hold up. I would go through it twice as fast as the good stuff. Stick with name brand (i.e. Norton, 3M etc.)

You get what you pay for. I avoid Harbor Freight like the plague. I wood rather support my country, it's citizens and workers then those in China...plus, overall, IMHO, the quality is better with US product.

mickyd

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?p=34287#post34287

JPG40504 wrote
........I thought you needed to know the current handles differ from the vintage you are working on.🙂

I very much dislike the new ones. I do not know whose hands they fit, but they do NOT fit mine!🙁 ........

I think I am going to try and made a mold casting of the old vintage red plastic handle and replace the current smaller diameter black one the SS now sells. I don't have any experience in this area but between utilizing the gray matter that's on this forum along with internet resources, I should be able to do a fine job.

I decided to start a thread on the casting process. I am sure others would like to be able to recreate the vintage handles also. Click here to get to the thread.

mickyd

My headstock is complete!!!!:D :D :D :D Tested it out on the bench last night. Works like a charm. No blown fuses, no funny noises. This is the first time I have heard a ShopSmith run and it was like music. Took it up and down through speed settings, did a high speed adjustment to the pork chop set screw, and it's ready to marry up with the rest of the machine.....as soon as I get everything else painted and assembled. I was shooting for this past weekend but had too many other things going on. Hopefully THIS weekend.

I'll post some pics of the finished headstock tonight. Took some pics late last night but they didn't come out very well. Need to take them with NO FLASH. There is too much gloss happening. Between the new paint and all that polished aluminum, I couldn't get a photo I was happy with.

mickyd

Well, here's the fruits of my labor so far. A completely restored headstock. Inspected, cleaned, lubed, silicon sprayed quill rack and pork chop contact surfaces, clear lacquered all interior surfaces, smoothed and polished all exterior aluminum pieces. Hopefully this head will find some legs REAL SOON!!!!! Dying to make some sawdust....gee, do I really want to get it dirty? YES!!

a1gutterman

That looks real purdy, Mike! Do knot forget to order a new "Caution" sticker! :rolleyes:

JPG

a1gutterman wroteThat looks real purdy, Mike! Do knot forget to order a new "Caution" sticker! :rolleyes:

Looks Fantastic!:) You might want to center the SN plate to the shaft. What did you do with the knurled aluminum collar on the output shaft(quill end)?

mickyd

JPG40504 wroteLooks Fantastic!:) You might want to center the SN plate to the shaft. What did you do with the knurled aluminum collar on the output shaft(quill end)?

Confession.....SN plate isn't mounted in the photo:o After I put the belt cover on, I realized that the SN plate used spring nuts which need to be installed with access to the inside......... Figured nobody would notice...NOT. You got a good eye there jpg. OK, so maybe I should have said "Almost completely restored headstock.."

Thanks for the thumbs up. I'm pretty pleased with it. I took my time.

mickyd

JPG40504 wroteWhat did you do with the knurled aluminum collar on the output shaft(quill end)?

It is in my YTBP pile....(yet to be polished)

[deleted]

Beautiful headstock; looks better than an original.

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