Router Question

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paul heller
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Post by paul heller »

bernie_penkin wrote:BTW, my first post here way back was concerning a sticky quill problem that I still haven't been able to fix. Not sure what happened, but my brothers helped my dad upgrade to the 2 bearing quill and it was never the same after that.
Rick Davis' DVD on Shopsmith Maintenance covers maintenance of the quill much more thoroughly than other sources. In it, he describes several potential reasons/solutions for the sticky quill problem. It might be the set screw, it might be just wax, or it might be there are some flat spots in what h refers to as the "plow" on top. In his video, he suggests how to fix those.

Paul
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

paul heller wrote:Rick Davis' DVD on Shopsmith Maintenance covers maintenance of the quill much more thoroughly than other sources. In it, he describes several potential reasons/solutions for the sticky quill problem. It might be the set screw, it might be just wax, or it might be there are some flat spots in what h refers to as the "plow" on top. In his video, he suggests how to fix those.

Paul
The 'plow' referred to is the keyway I referred to in a previous post. IF someone(?) has tightened the screw when it was NOT in/over the 'plow' and the end of the setscrew nicked(or worse) the edge of it, a burr may have been created which the screw(when subsequently riding in the 'plow') will bind against. The 'fix' is to gently file the burr until the wall of the 'plow' is again burr free. Crud buildup in the 'plow' is another possible culprit.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
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johnmccrossen
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Post by johnmccrossen »

Bernie, The fact that your problem started when the quill was changed out makes me wonder if someone may have tightened the quill lock clamp without a quill in place. This could distort the clamp and cause a binding problem. As was suggested, by removing the quill and inspecting the condition of things, hopefully you can easily determine the cause. The reference information mentioned will cover how to remove and reinstall the quill correctly. Be sure to follow the directions especially about the quill tension spring. Perhaps you may still have the instruction sheet that came with the two-bearing quill upgrade. That also will explain how to remove and reinstall the quill. Shopsmith customer service has lots of free service bullitins available if you give them a call and explain your problem. They normally take about a week to receive them in the mail. Also you should check the quill pinion gear for impacted crud between the teeth. Good luck on your problem solving. John McCrossen
John McCrossen
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1954 Mk 5 SN 269454, 1955 Mk 5 SN 316013, 1960 Mk 5 SN 360792, 1962 Mk 5 SN 380102, Magna band saw, (2) jointers, (1) belt sander, (1) air compressor, (1) jig saw, (1) strip sander, (1) 20" scroll saw, DC 3300 dust collector, Sawsmith RAS, Craftsman table saw, 13" DeWalt planer, Triton 3 1/4 HP plunge router & table
bernie_penkin
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Post by bernie_penkin »

I have disassembled the quill several times and tried many of the suggestions posted, but to no avail. I even replaced all of the parts a few years back as well. Not sure what the problem is. Might be some kind of alignment problem. If I move the quill out, it won't move back by itself. Makes using the drill press a pain.

Thanks again fo rall of the advice.
bernie_penkin
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Post by bernie_penkin »

I forgot to mention that I have the DVD series on repairing the SS. I will have to review it for the quill content. This is a machine from the '70's and I was thinking about just having it overhauled. My dad used it faithfully until he couldn't work in his shop anymore and I don't think he did much preventative maintenance. I will look at the sawdust session too.

Thanks again,

Bernie
BTW I think I posted here with another user name and started a new one when I forgot what it was and my password too. That's why I look like a new member.:o
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

bernie_penkin wrote:I forgot to mention that I have the DVD series on repairing the SS. I will have to review it for the quill content. This is a machine from the '70's and I was thinking about just having it overhauled. My dad used it faithfully until he couldn't work in his shop anymore and I don't think he did much preventative maintenance. I will look at the sawdust session too.

Thanks again,

Bernie
BTW I think I posted here with another user name and started a new one when I forgot what it was and my password too. That's why I look like a new member.:o
Two more 'suggestions'
1) Is the 'return' spring BROKE? Is the spring tension set correctly? If when the quill was replaced the spring was allowed to uncoil, it a:may have broken, b:may be uncoiled.
2) What is the condition of the splines(inside headstock)? Was the nylon(white plastic) whatever it is called installed properly? Did the splines on the nylon piece get boogered up in the process? The suggestion to use the quill as a press(without protecting the nylon splines) is a possible cause.

Review the procedure and try again to determine the cause. GOOD LUCK!:)
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╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
bernie_penkin
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Post by bernie_penkin »

The first repair that I did on the machine was to replace the spring. Tension is fine. I will pull it apart again and see what's up. I even went so far as to replace the part where the quill slides into and that didn't help either. Maybe I need to align it again.
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