still_waters_43 wrote:Thanks a bunch for all the help guys, I finally got it going.
This morning I lubed the sheaves as suggested and manully dialed it back to a slow setting, and then it started up fine, so I let it run for a few minutes before speeding it up and down (with no ciruit breaker trips:-).
The quill is still bothering me though, it is still binding. If I extend out it will only slip back about a inch and then it stops, if I move the lever it will slip another inch. I've cleaned all the groves, waxed it, adjusted the retaining screw and the tension but I still have this issue. Any ideas?
It sounds as though you have checked, cleaned, waxed and adjusted everything that you have been told to check, clean, wax and adjust.
However, it is obvious that we are all overlooking something.
The only suggestion that I would make at this point is that you watch the Sawdust Session again but only after reading (maybe studying) the following thread.
Let me call your attention to Nick's comments and specifically to #15. He tells you to tension the quill spring before installing the quill. If you do this and have good spring action (that knuckle knocking action that I referred to earlier) then the spring is not likely your problem.
In the Shopsmith procedures for tensining the quill there is a CAUTION that reads:
Do not tighten the quill lock. This will damage parts.
Please note that this caution is located in the instructions immediately after instructing the user to remove the quill so the caution applies only when the quill is removed.
My question - What sort of damage could be caused by tightening the quill lock with the quill removed?
Might this be the cause of still-waters-43's problem?
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
dusty wrote:In the Shopsmith procedures for tensining the quill there is a CAUTION that reads:
Do not tighten the quill lock. This will damage parts.
Please note that this caution is located in the instructions immediately after instructing the user to remove the quill so the caution applies only when the quill is removed.
My question - What sort of damage could be caused by tightening the quill lock with the quill removed?
Might this be the cause of still-waters-43's problem?
Normally tightening the quill lock excessively without the quill will prevent the quill from being installed. I find a few headstocks where it appears the quill lock was not tighten when doing drill press/vibration type work. The quill housing was loose in the headstock. I overtighten the quill lock to pull the headstock casing quill ears closer together. I am able to remove the slop/clearance for the quill housing. It may take me many tries to remove all the play. At first, I got carried away and tighten too much. I have a quill housing that I ground with a very slight taper that I use to open the headstock quill ears when I tap it into the headstock. No a recommended procedure but works for me.
I just rebuild a headstock that had impacted sawdust/crud on the quill feed gear. The gear looks clean as the teeth on the gear and the crud was the same color. I had to use a small flat blade screwdriver to remove the crud as a wire brush did not clean all of the crud. The crud was like a hard coating between the teeth and I had to sort of chisel the crud out.
I have many different small jewelers files that I use to remove nicks to the quill housing and headstock quill ears area that may be difficult to see that can cause quill extension/retraction problems. I file both sides of the top groove on each quill housing as the quill set screw will raise the edge on each side of the quill top housing groove if the headstock is often used as a drill press. It does not take much to bind the quill housing.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
Well guys what I found is that the quill feed gear does have some bright gouges in it so I guess I probably need to to remove it and file them down somehow, what should I use to do this? (I would not know where to find jeweler files).
I'm sure the above could be causing most of my binding issues, but I'm also finding that even when the quill is all the way free from the gear it is really hard to pull it out of the headstock (is this normal)?
still_waters_43 wrote:Well guys what I found is that the quill feed gear does have some bright gouges in it so I guess I probably need to to remove it and file them down somehow, what should I use to do this? (I would not know where to find jeweler files).
I'm sure the above could be causing most of my binding issues, but I'm also finding that even when the quill is all the way free from the gear it is really hard to pull it out of the headstock (is this normal)?
When the quill housing is clear of the gear, it should slide out freely. I would believe the groove on top of the quill housing has a raised edges and/or the outside edge of the quill housing teeth need filing. You should be able to feel any raised area on the quill housing or inside the headstock housing.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
You should also check the feed quill pinion (item 43) for any burrs, ect on the teeth.
Dick
SS equipment. '89 510 (upgrade to 520), beltsander, pro planer, SS dust collector, 2 bandsaws, jointer, strip sander (production unit #1), OPR, scroll saw, Power Station, Incra TSIII Ultra Fence System& Wonder Fence plus (2) 50 year old DeWalt RASs and Incra miter express with miter gauge
Well the day started out good!, when I saw those files on Harborfreight I remembered I had a similar one so I dug it out of my toolbox and set to work. I was able to reach in to file off the rough spots on the gear and anywhere that needed it. At this point I was feeling good as I didn't have to take anything apart.
Then I started winding in tension on the quill spring when I felt slip and I couldn't tighten anymore (the handle just kept turning round and round - I must gone the wrong way?). Anyway that meant I had to take the whole thing apart and sure enough the spring had slipped off the axle. I got everything back together and just when I slid the gear I heard a boing and yep the spring came off again.
So, unless someone has a better idea, I am going to try again later and this time try to keep some tension on it as I put it in.
you need to wind it clockwise about 2 1/2 turns and keep tension on it until you insert the quill. you can use the depth stop to hold it until you are ready to put the quill in, but as stated earlier in this thread do not use the quill lock without the quill installed as this can do serious damage to the headstock casting. my favorite tool to clean up burrs on the gears is a dremel if there are more than a couple otherwise the file works as well.
Bob
1954 greenie, 1963 anniversary edition now a mini,
1984 500, 1985 510, 1987 510, pro-planer, bandsaw, dust collector
