PTWFE Chapter 9 Shaping

dlbristol · Post by **dlbristol** » Tue Apr 07, 2009 11:26 am

I don't have this tool. I am reading book and forum with interest however. I have an older and low end craftsman router,a low end table and a craftsman molder set. One a gift and one inherited, both "well loved" and somewhat worse for the wear. I have looked at the shaper with the idea that maybe it would sort of complimentry to the other tools. My router is very difficult to set the depth so I might need to replace it. What thoughts do you who use the shaper and or router on SS have on the combinations? I am really so uninformed that I am not sure what questions to ask. But, that is why I keep comming back to the forum!

perryobear · Post by **perryobear** » Wed Apr 08, 2009 7:36 pm

Hi guys,

Like the mortiser, the shaper is another interesting accessory that I don't yet own, so this study is again mostly an intellectual exercise for me.

I was a little bit surprised (and encouraged) by the the number of you who quickly jumped in and reported on your favorable use of the SS Shaper attachment.

I think I see one benefit that the SS Shaper seems to have over the SS Molder is that you can use cutter heads made by other suppliers as long as they are 1/2” diameter bore (or bushed down to 1/2”). I don't believe you have this “second source” option with knives for the SS molder head.

Question: Cutter heads with 3/4” diameter bores and 1/2” bushings seem to be readily available. Some suppliers routinely include the 1/2” bush with the cutter. Have any of you SS Shaper owners used a 3/4” bore cutter head fitted with a 1/2” bushing on the SS Shaper arbor set, if so how well does it work?

For those that have access to the old version of PTWFE there is a diagrammatic illustration of the various cuts that possible with the bead/quarter round cutter. Some of these are shown in the Figure 9-8 photo in the newer version. I found the photo of the finished wood cuts more “inspiring” but I found the diagrams of the various profiles themselves easier to follow.

I also noted that "special" shaping operations with the spindle horizontal and the table set at 90 degrees and operations with the table set at an angle to the spindle were covered in the old PTWFE edition using a 500 table, but are absent in the newer edition which uses the 510 table.

Question: Was it just a whim of the editor, or does anyone know of a reason such as a critical safety issue or operational consideration that may have lead to the removal of the tilted table technique?

I know that the router chapters are still ahead of us, so I will keep reading and take a “wait and see” attitude on these various decorative cutting methods.

Best regards to all,

Dennis

reible · Post by **reible** » Wed Apr 08, 2009 8:12 pm

I only have a limited number (9) of cutters, and none of them are from shopsmith. Once again this is due to me being involved with wood work before I got my shopsmith in 1976. They are all 1/2" one and none are carbide...

The angle cutting is still in the revised edition (1984) and it may have been removed for other then safety issues. Several sections of he book are shorter then the previous edition. I guess this was so they could add more other places???

I have cut with the table at 90 deg. but have not at any other angles.... and that was when my machine was still a 500. I have a planner cutter and have used as a mini jointer, only 1" wide.

Ed

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Thu Apr 09, 2009 2:40 am

I have wanted to post my endorsement of the Shopsmith Shaper attachment - have been stalled in doing so for fooling with another computer issue.

I love the shaper and in particular the 6 piece cope and stick set (505937) SS calls it a complete cabinet set. It can be used on 3/4" wood as well as 1 1/4" (I think)(maybe 1 1/2") outside doors. It is a little mind boggling to set up, but works like a champ.

Other cutters can be used following a first cutter to give all kinds of interesting shapes on things like picture frames. Sometimes just using a second cutter to enhance (alter) the outline of the first makes a startling change.

The shaping package (555170) is the first add-on that I bought for my Mark V. It hasn't been used much lately, but it will soon. I had forgotten how much fun it is, and in my opinion, sometimes more desirable than a router. For one thing, the dust collection through the bottom of the table is very efficient.

Here is a couple photos of a mirror frame partially made with the shaper. The oak was shaped then there is some dentil molding of poplar sandwiched between two layers of walnut.
[ATTACH]3903[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]3904[/ATTACH]

rkh2 · Post by **rkh2** » Thu Apr 09, 2009 9:42 am

Chuck

You never seize to amaze me with your craftsmanship. Another fine piece. I haven't added the molding/shaping packages to my inventory yet but can see how they would definitely be a more dust free operation compared to my router. I remember Mike Cobb demonstrating them in one of the traveling academies and was quite impressed then however at the time I had other items higher up on my have to have list. One of these days and when the "price is right" I will have to add them to my tools.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Thu Apr 09, 2009 9:47 am

charlese wrote:I have wanted to post my endorsement of the Shopsmith Shaper attachment - have been stalled in doing so for fooling with another computer issue.

I love the shaper and in particular the 6 piece cope and stick set (505937) SS calls it a complete cabinet set. It can be used on 3/4" wood as well as 1 1/4" (I think)(maybe 1 1/2") outside doors. It is a little mind boggling to set up, but works like a champ.

Other cutters can be used following a first cutter to give all kinds of interesting shapes on things like picture frames. Sometimes just using a second cutter to enhance (alter) the outline of the first makes a startling change.

The shaping package (555170) is the first add-on that I bought for my Mark V. It hasn't been used much lately, but it will soon. I had forgotten how much fun it is, and in my opinion, sometimes more desirable than a router. For one thing, the dust collection through the bottom of the table is very efficient.

Here is a couple photos of a mirror frame partially made with the shaper. The oak was shaped then there is some dentil molding of poplar sandwiched between two layers of walnut.
[ATTACH]3903[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]3904[/ATTACH]

BEAUTIFUL frame! NICE WORK!!!:)

dlbristol · Post by **dlbristol** » Thu Apr 09, 2009 6:48 pm

WOW!!! There is proof the tool works very well. As is often the case the tool is not the limiting factor, the skill of the user is. I aspire to that level of skill, but have a ways to go!

a1gutterman · Post by **a1gutterman** » Thu Apr 09, 2009 7:19 pm

You are a talented woodworker, Chuck!

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Thu Apr 09, 2009 9:07 pm

Thanks, for your kind words! BUT! Please don't miss what I was trying to illustrate. What I was trying to point out (should have said this earlier) was - the shaper can make shapes that I just don't have router bits to do. In fact, I don't think I could make these shapes with a router, even if I had the proper bits!

That frame (the outside edge roll) sits almost 2 inches proud of the wall, and the curves are milled from one piece. I know it can be duplicated, because the mirror frame was made in '99 and a similar, smaller picture frame was made in 2004.

I don't remember how many passes had to be made to form the frame,... I think 5. One on the table saw and 4 on the shaper.

EDIT: Please see the disclaimer to this post in a few postings further down the line. Sorry! - Chuck

a1gutterman · Post by **a1gutterman** » Thu Apr 09, 2009 10:05 pm

I did knot miss what you were illustrating. To do the dentil work, did you glue individual pieces on or cut them all out on one long piece?

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PTWFE Chapter 9 Shaping

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