Yup.. I've never replaced the ones that come with it.. I did like the diamond dressing tool that they used on the podcast above -- pretty slick.. I guess that's more or less similar to one of these
If anyone uses a diamond dressing tool similar to what's shown on the video ('T' shaped, wide enough to clean the entire wheel at once -- width wise), I'd like to know about it.. Neither Rockler or Woodcraft have one that's cleaning the full-width at once.
Turning newbie questions..
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osx-addict
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I got mine at woodcraft, along with the slow speed grinder.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
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horologist
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The Wolverine is a fine system. My dad and I just took a lathe class this weekend and this is what the instructor used. Some turners claim that you can't ride the bevel properly with a hollow ground tool and that the bevel needs to be flat. I've used both the hollow ground and flat ground and am insufficiently experienced to really see much difference either way. To me the important thing is that the tool is sharp.
I now have a Tormek for sharpening my carving tools along with the strip sander with sharpening attachment and decided that I really didn't want to buy into yet another expensive sharpening system.
Between the Wolverine and the strip sander I prefer the sander. It is just as quick and easy but removes a lot less metal and gives a sharper edge.
I may be sharpening my lathe tools to a higher degree (possibly unnecessarily) than most but experience has shown clearly that when turning metal with a hand graver a *sharp* tool works much better, I can't see how this would be any different with wood. It seems that many turners accept a lesser quality edge as a matter of convenience.
I now have a Tormek for sharpening my carving tools along with the strip sander with sharpening attachment and decided that I really didn't want to buy into yet another expensive sharpening system.
Between the Wolverine and the strip sander I prefer the sander. It is just as quick and easy but removes a lot less metal and gives a sharper edge.
I may be sharpening my lathe tools to a higher degree (possibly unnecessarily) than most but experience has shown clearly that when turning metal with a hand graver a *sharp* tool works much better, I can't see how this would be any different with wood. It seems that many turners accept a lesser quality edge as a matter of convenience.
The best equipped laundry room in the neighborhood...
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RobertTaylor
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osx-addict
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bettyt44720 wrote:check woodcraft again.
http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=124670&FamilyID=223
Oops.. I did see that one but had forgotten about it.. In watching the podcast the host indicated he used these and wore them down and had to replace them regularly until he bought one that was solid with diamonds and he used it regularly for ~6 years with little wear and that it cost ~$40.. Anyway, this one is still better than what Rockler sells on their site which is too narrow.
Beeg -
Below are some photo's of the lathe tools for your reference.. I think I've got two gouges, a roundnose chisel, a skew chisel and a parting tool based on reviewing the PTWFE Lathe chapter
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Rick
S/W of Los Angeles, CA
1983 Mark V model 510 (SN#140061)
S/W of Los Angeles, CA
1983 Mark V model 510 (SN#140061)
Looks like the two gouges are a
3/4inch roughing gouge.
3/8inch spindle gouge.
I'm guessing that they are carbon steel, which means you'll have to be careful when grinding them so they don't get to hot and take out the temper.
WHAT kind of spark do you get when ya touch em to the grinding wheel?
On the skew, round over the square edges on the shank, so it slides better on the tool rest.
OH and Rockler might sharpen them for ya, for a price.
3/4inch roughing gouge.
3/8inch spindle gouge.
I'm guessing that they are carbon steel, which means you'll have to be careful when grinding them so they don't get to hot and take out the temper.
WHAT kind of spark do you get when ya touch em to the grinding wheel?
On the skew, round over the square edges on the shank, so it slides better on the tool rest.
OH and Rockler might sharpen them for ya, for a price.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
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osx-addict
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The only one half sharp is the one on the far left in the bottom photo -- the parting tool--perhaps due to lack of use.. As for the grinder, I've not yet tried using it so I've got no ideas on spark color which I gather ought to be white possibly (as opposed to orange/yellow)...
Rick
S/W of Los Angeles, CA
1983 Mark V model 510 (SN#140061)
S/W of Los Angeles, CA
1983 Mark V model 510 (SN#140061)
Rick
The chisels in your picture look like the original set that comes with the shopsmith. If so, they are carbon steel which means that they can heat up quickly when sharpening so you have to be careful with them and keep cooling them off, however they are decent chisels and work fine when sharpened. I still use my original 3/4" gouge to do my initial roughing of whatever I may be turning and never have a problem with it when it is sharp. I use bowl gouges for hogging out the inside of bowls and shopsmith makes a good one that is HSS steel and also use some Sorby chisels. Below are some angles recommended by a former Shopsmith TA instructor to put on the chisels for good results. He had given the degrees for using the Shopsmith sharpening jig and the other number is the angle you would use on a grinding wheel.
I have mine set to these angles and like the results. Other turners have other angles and like theirs, so it's a matter of whatever makes you feel comfortable and gives you good results.
So the angles would be as follows.
Gouge...13 degrees left of 0. = 32°
3/8" Gouge...5 degrees left of 0. = 40°
Skew...13 degrees left of 0. = 32°
Parting...8 degrees of left of 0. = 37°
Scraper...0 degrees. = 45°
Bowl Gouges...4 degrees left of 0. = 41°
The chisels in your picture look like the original set that comes with the shopsmith. If so, they are carbon steel which means that they can heat up quickly when sharpening so you have to be careful with them and keep cooling them off, however they are decent chisels and work fine when sharpened. I still use my original 3/4" gouge to do my initial roughing of whatever I may be turning and never have a problem with it when it is sharp. I use bowl gouges for hogging out the inside of bowls and shopsmith makes a good one that is HSS steel and also use some Sorby chisels. Below are some angles recommended by a former Shopsmith TA instructor to put on the chisels for good results. He had given the degrees for using the Shopsmith sharpening jig and the other number is the angle you would use on a grinding wheel.
I have mine set to these angles and like the results. Other turners have other angles and like theirs, so it's a matter of whatever makes you feel comfortable and gives you good results.
So the angles would be as follows.
Gouge...13 degrees left of 0. = 32°
3/8" Gouge...5 degrees left of 0. = 40°
Skew...13 degrees left of 0. = 32°
Parting...8 degrees of left of 0. = 37°
Scraper...0 degrees. = 45°
Bowl Gouges...4 degrees left of 0. = 41°
Ron from Lewisburg, TN
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osx-addict
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Sharpening Jig on YouTube
Since you have a grinder...the jig heremay get you started.
I have SS sharpening jig, but used a two grit carborundum stone to dress some second hand chisels for a few emergency turnings. Rough, Rough, but it got the jobs done until I get the sanding disk/jig out to tune up all the chisels.
I have SS sharpening jig, but used a two grit carborundum stone to dress some second hand chisels for a few emergency turnings. Rough, Rough, but it got the jobs done until I get the sanding disk/jig out to tune up all the chisels.
MK V 520; MK V 510 w/PP DIY Upgrade; MK 5 500; Jointer; Bandsaw; Sliding Table; Conical Sanding Disk; Sharpening Guide, Lathe Duplicator, Jigsaw, Scrollsaw, Beltsander, Ring Master, Biscuit Joiner.