RotoZip blades?

[baddlad]

I really want to buy a jigsaw or band saw attachment for my Mark V but money is too tight right now. I was wondering if anyone thought it might be dangerous or just plain not a good idea to use a rotozip blade in the drill press/shaper position and use it to cut different shapes in wood like you would a jig saw. Just in case someone is not familiar with a rotozip it's like a drill bit but cuts lateral as well, it's a spiral saw.
Maybe I am trying to get too creative.

Jeff

[JPG]

I really want to buy a jigsaw or band saw attachment for my Mark V but money is too tight right now. I was wondering if anyone thought it might be dangerous or just plain not a good idea to use a rotozip blade in the drill press/shaper position and use it to cut different shapes in wood like you would a jig saw. Just in case someone is not familiar with a rotozip it's like a drill bit but cuts lateral as well, it's a spiral saw.
Maybe I am trying to get too creative.

Jeff

SS Spindle WAY too Slow!:( Roto-zip spindle speed is 5-6x faster(30,000 rpm)!

They will cut, but very slow compared to Roto-zip.

[baddlad]

yeah I forgot to check the difference in speeds, that is a huge difference.

[SDSSmith]

baddlad I sent you a PM.

[Ed in Tampa]

I really want to buy a jigsaw or band saw attachment for my Mark V but money is too tight right now. I was wondering if anyone thought it might be dangerous or just plain not a good idea to use a rotozip blade in the drill press/shaper position and use it to cut different shapes in wood like you would a jig saw. Just in case someone is not familiar with a rotozip it's like a drill bit but cuts lateral as well, it's a spiral saw.
Maybe I am trying to get too creative.

Jeff

While slower I think it will work but know this Rotozip do not give you a very clean splinter free hole. You can pick up a used standalone scroll saw fairly cheap, also you might consider what I call a saber saw (some call them jigsaws) basically they are hand held that have the blade going up and down. I used one for years as my only saw, worked for me! Very useful even now cutting everything from aluminum for screen enclosures to making jigsaw puzzles.

[JPG]

While slower I think it will work but know this Rotozip do not give you a very clean splinter free hole. You can pick up a used standalone scroll saw fairly cheap, also you might consider what I call a saber saw (some call them jigsaws) basically they are hand held that have the blade going up and down. I used one for years as my only saw, worked for me! Very useful even now cutting everything from aluminum for screen enclosures to making jigsaw puzzles.

They were called Sabre saws since only one end of the blade is attached. The opposite end is free to 'pierce the stock being cut like a sabre'. They were more useful in the handheld version since they were small and portable. I think some jig saw blades were made, but I think most jig saws lacked an adequate method of chucking. Also some jig saws depend on the upward force of the spring on the other end to properly follow the driving cam.

I still use mine after 50+ years. You do need to know their limitations.

[robinson46176]

While slower I think it will work but know this Rotozip do not give you a very clean splinter free hole. You can pick up a used standalone scroll saw fairly cheap, also you might consider what I call a saber saw (some call them jigsaws) basically they are hand held that have the blade going up and down. I used one for years as my only saw, worked for me! Very useful even now cutting everything from aluminum for screen enclosures to making jigsaw puzzles.

I sold 4 or 5 old working jig/scroll saws in our yard sale last year for about $5 each. They were old and heavy and I almost tossed them in the scrap iron pile but wanted to try to get them to somebody that could use them. I did scrap a couple that didn't sell. I had bought most of them at Amish auctions for $2 to $5 each just to get the nice tool stands they were mounted on. The Amish had ran them with "air motors".
I have a number of SS jigsaws and need to sort them out eventually. Several are missing the table insert. It must get lost easy. I have a decent newish stand alone scroll saw that serves well. I don't do a lot of that kind of work. Of course the band saw handles most heavy cutting like that.
The hand held sabersaws work extremely well for making cuts in the house where a Skillsaw type saw would spew a lot of sawdust and endanger public relations.

[allsas]

I have used the RotoZip to make:
wood banks (3),
Magazine boxes,
Bureau Box Trays,
Cedar Bureau Boxes,
Electrical Box Covers,
Shelves (2),
Computer Tables,
Miterless Picture Frames,
Prairie Style Lamp w/3 CFL's,
Display Case,
Expanded Base for RotoZip,
Caddy for the RotoZip
Worktable to place the RotoZip w/ Expanded Base and use as a Router,
WorkBench to place the RotoZip, w/ Caddy to use as a Router.

There is a big difference between RotoZip and Jig/Scroll Saws, both need help cutting straight lines. I used the RotoZip to build even larger projects than those listed, before I got the SS and after my RAS died. Bits will break if they aren't held steady. When they are used in an under table router application you can see how much they move / vibrate when cutting and you will see how they break when abused. Standard SS doesn't have the 30,000 rpms to move the 1/8" bits for cutting. Subsequent models have speed control for router bits and accessories. 1/8" or larger kerf is a great disadvantage when compared to Jig/scroll saws or Band Saw.

My objective was to experiment w/RotoZip and find out how to cut a straight line with it. Original is available as PDF or Manual. Click here for Sequel with Caddy and last five projects --- Send me a PM w/Password Request from Download and I'll send YOU the password for the version on your computer.

[robinson46176]

I have had a Roto-zip for several years and use it a little. I had just bought the basic tool (I forget which model) and I did buy the circle attachment for it not too long ago. I stuck it in a fair sized plastic tool box with a lift out tray for bits etc.
I bought another one a little bigger and newer at the last Amish consignment auction. It was in a big case about the size of a small suitcase and had a right angle grinder attachment included as well as about 6 different disk for the attachment and some other small items. None of them showed any signs of use including the Roto-zip itself. I took the approach that there was a good chance that the zip was possibly DOA but when the bidding stopped I had bought it for $12.50 which was about what I was willing to pay for the right angle attachment. When I got it home I plugged it in and it ran perfectly. I put the attachment on it and it also ran perfectly. So far the only problem is that big blow-molded case was made for the tool and that attachment along with the accessories for it. I cannot put my other zip in the case with it so I will have to provide a home for the case and tool box both. The case is nice but I think I may get a bigger tool box to hold both of them and all current and future accessories.
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One use I found for the zip is that I have occasion to cut the sidewalls out of tires now and then. I have used all kinds of methods and was using a lubricated knife but the Roto-zip buzzed them out like a hot knife through butter. I have used it like a small router for a couple of grooving jobs but I don't consider it a fine woodworking tool.