Blowing fuse

putttn · Post by **putttn** » Sat May 09, 2009 1:31 pm

Charlese, thanks for the infor. I'm going to go try that now and see if it's working that way. I did pull down on the blade but didn't open up the cover so I'll delve a little deeper. Seemed to pull easily but that was not opening up the cabinet and doing it your way.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sat May 09, 2009 2:36 pm

If it is not terribly inconvenient to do so, I take the circular saw blade off when the headstock is being used to power other SPT. When that is deemed to be too much trouble (very subjective analysis), I do as Charlese recommends. Use the saw guards. That whirling disk can do some damage if something comes in contact accidently - like, have you ever dropped a tool or a piece of wood.

I have enough accidental happenings without creating the conditions when that can be avoided.

BTW, from what you have reported here, it doesn't seem like you have an electrical problem.

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Mon May 11, 2009 2:29 pm

[quote="a1gutterman"]Hi Ed!

I do knot live in sunny Florida, but here in Washington a 30amp circuit requires a minimum wire size of 10ga. Also, in sunny Florida, I believe there are many RV owners. I have only seen two types of plugs on RV's]

Tim
I always thought 10 wire was okay for 30 amps but when I looked up the national code what is posted is what they said. I know you can us a 100 foot 10 guage extension cord on a 30 amp circuit without a problematic volt drop.(cord gets hot). Again I don't know how many 30 amp 110 circuits I have ever seen. Usually in house wiring anything requiring more than 20 amps goes to 220. UL only underwrite appliances that use less than 15 amps.
Electric furances, air conditioning, stoves, hot water, driers are all 220 and I can't imagine anything that draws more than 20 amps.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon May 11, 2009 3:37 pm

Ed in Tampa wrote:Tim
I always thought 10 wire was okay for 30 amps but when I looked up the national code what is posted is what they said. I know you can us a 100 foot 10 guage extension cord on a 30 amp circuit without a problematic volt drop.(cord gets hot). Again I don't know how many 30 amp 110 circuits I have ever seen. Usually in house wiring anything requiring more than 20 amps goes to 220. UL only underwrite appliances that use less than 15 amps.
Electric furances, air conditioning, stoves, hot water, driers are all 220 and I can't imagine anything that draws more than 20 amps.

Anybody ever seen a 115v 30A DEVICE?:eek:

a1gutterman · Post by **a1gutterman** » Mon May 11, 2009 9:21 pm

JPG40504 wrote:Anybody ever seen a 115v 30A DEVICE?:eek:

My travel trailer is a "115v 30A DEVICE" [make that an appliance, but it plugs into such a device, thanks Red]. Most of my camping is what is referred to as "Dry Camping" and there are no hook-ups, but occasionally, I find myself in an RV park or campground that allows me to plug into a 30amp receptacle. At my home, I have two different locations (two seperate circuits) that I can plug my travel trailer into. I wood say that I have in-home circuits that are 110/120v 30amp.

Ed in Tampa wrote:Tim
I always thought 10 wire was okay for 30 amps but when I looked up the national code what is posted is what they said. I know you can us a 100 foot 10 guage extension cord on a 30 amp circuit without a problematic volt drop.(cord gets hot). Again I don't know how many 30 amp 110 circuits I have ever seen. Usually in house wiring anything requiring more than 20 amps goes to 220. UL only underwrite appliances that use less than 15 amps.
Electric furances, air conditioning, stoves, hot water, driers are all 220 and I can't imagine anything that draws more than 20 amps.

Hi Ed,

Regardless of what your source says about the national code, in my state of Washington, a minimum of 10ga wire is code for all 30 amp wiring. Many of the items that you list really are two 110/120 circuits put together in one device (appliance, thanks Red). For instance, a dryer uses one 110 circuit for the motor and one for the heating element]single-[/I]throw, thanks Red] 30amp breaker (or any double [single-throw] breaker for that matter) draws electricity from each of the two bars (poles, thanks Red) in your panel. If too much power was being drawn off of one side, your main breaker wood "pop". So in reality, if you have any of those double [single-throw] 30amp breakers in YOUR panel, you have two, side-by-side, 30amp 110/120v circuits.

edits; corrections of my incorrect terms thanks to JPG40504

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon May 11, 2009 10:20 pm

For the 'record' a receptacle is a device. A trailer is an appliance. Yes 115v 30A devices exist(plugs/receptacles) but they are NOT common. Trailer parks and 'domiciles' of those who own such trailers are an exception. I am sure there are other portable appliances which require a 115V 30a dedicated branch circuit, but they are typically NOT found in a residence.

The 'double' breakers are 2 pole. They are of a single throw configuration.

Sorry Tim, I had to do this!:)

a1gutterman · Post by **a1gutterman** » Mon May 11, 2009 10:43 pm

JPG40504 wrote:For the 'record' a receptacle is a device. A trailer is an appliance. Yes 115v 30A devices exist(plugs/receptacles) but they are NOT common. Trailer parks and 'domiciles' of those who own such trailers are an exception. I am sure there are other portable appliances which require a 115V 30a dedicated branch circuit, but they are typically NOT found in a residence.

The 'double' breakers are 2 pole. They are of a single throw configuration.

Sorry Tim, I had to do this!:)

No problem, Red]JPG40504[/B]

Anybody ever seen a 115v 30A DEVICE?:eek:

I have and you just admitted that they do exist...

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon May 11, 2009 10:54 pm

a1gutterman wrote:No problem, Red]JPG40504[/B]

I have and you just admitted that they do exist...

You're right. I overlooked trailers. Your 115v loads on 230v 2 pole breakers is true, but KNOT absolute. Many 230V appliances operate on 230V only.
The 'third' wire is actually a ground in this case and no 'neutral' is needed.

Newer appliances(dryers especially) now are equipped with 4 wire plugs/receptacles. This allows separate ground and neutral conductors in addition the the two 230v conductors.

a1gutterman · Post by **a1gutterman** » Mon May 11, 2009 11:08 pm

JPG40504 wrote:You're right. I overlooked trailers. Your 115v loads on 230v 2 pole breakers is true, but KNOT absolute. Many 230V appliances operate on 230V only.
The 'third' wire is actually a ground in this case and no 'neutral' is needed.

Newer appliances(dryers especially) now are equipped with 4 wire plugs/receptacles. This allows separate ground and neutral conductors in addition the the two 230v conductors.

Absolutely: many electric motors ARE a true 220/240v and KNOT split to operate two seperate needs of the same appliance. They still use both poles to balance the load.

Both new dryers and ranges use the new 4 wire plugs and receptacles. In my house, two of the wires are "hot", a third wire goes to the ground bar and the fourth goes to the neutral bar. In other words, the ground wire and the neutral wire service both "hots". If that is knot what is actually going on, please advise.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon May 11, 2009 11:34 pm

a1gutterman wrote:Absolutely: many electric motors ARE a true 220/240v and KNOT split to operate two seperate needs of the same appliance. They still use both poles to balance the load.

Both new dryers and ranges use the new 4 wire plugs and receptacles. In my house, two of the wires are "hot", a third wire goes to the ground bar and the fourth goes to the neutral bar. In other words, the ground wire and the neutral wire service both "hots". If that is knot what is actually going on, please advise.

Terminology again! The ground conductor(green when colored) serves to provide a path to "ground" in the event of a fault(short/leakage) to the external surface of the appliance(which would pose a hazard to anyone touching the appliance). The ground wire maintains the external surface of the appliance at 'ground' potental. The ground conductor is knot intended to serve any other purpose and should NEVER be conducting any current EXCEPT fault current. It is connected, but just sits there doing nothing until a fault occurs.

The neutral conductor(white when colored) serves to conduct any current due to 115v loads. Thus the neutral ONLY serves to conduct this imbalance in currents between the two 230v conductors. If two EQUAL 115v loads were on each of the 230V conductors, there would be NO current in the neutral.

Since the purpose of the breaker is to protect the wiring, an excessive current in ONE pole will cause the breaker to trip. Since this can cause an unexpected condition in any appliance connected, the second pole is simultaneously tripped(mechanically connected).

Not sure how this is helping putttn with his motor problem, but perhaps we are all learning something here.