PTWFE Chapter 14 - Band Saw

[charlese]

Hi Bob! After looking at your photos for a while, I think you don't really have a problem, looks like you have already diagnosed your "uneven" edges. (practice) Your sawn curves look like the ones I used to make.

Try again - this time relax and let the blade glide around the curves. Your hands should be steady on the wood, but there's really no need to bear down with finger pressure. The only pressure on the wood should be to steer around the curves and GENTLY and SLOWLY let the blade cut it's way through the piece.

In fact, while you gain experience - try this - Draw a curved line on the wood - partially saw along this line - take your hands off of the wood and take a step back with the saw still running. Count to 20 slowly - then go back to the wood and finish the cut. You MAY see a very small bump at the point where you stepped back, but that's all. This will give you an idea on how to steer the wood.

Don't sweat your coming arm sawing project! Just saw outside the line by 1/16" or so and sand to finish the shape.

[beeg]

Thanks to everyone for your responses. I think I'll hit the scrap box and cut me a bunch of S curves.

[dusty]

Thanks to everyone for your responses. I think I'll hit the scrap box and cut me a bunch of S curves.

The politically correct term is "training aids". Remember, there is no such thing as scrap in a wood shop.

Well, maybe. I have turned more than project into scrap. The salvaged parts then become "training aids".

[JPG]

The politically correct term is "training aids". Remember, there is no such thing as scrap in a wood shop.

Well, maybe. I have turned more than project into scrap. The salvaged parts then become "training aids".

It does NOT become a training aid UNTIL it comes back out of the box!;) Until then the box IS aptly named!:D When it comes out to be used for a project, it becomes 'raw material'.

[reible]

Hi,

I personally have found plenty of times I have been limited by both the distance from blade to support (throat) and the height/depth of my bandsaw. It is not a shopsmith but is about the same physical size, so the same limitations apply.

I've owned a bandsaw since the early 1970's, that is even before I got my first shopsmith. I was also quite lucky to have access to other bandsaws for different projects over the years.

In those early days I was more into getting raw logs and processing them and had access to a large commercial 18" saw for converting them. To be honest that got old real quick for me and for sure at this point in my life I have no interest to do any more of that. But there are more reasons then resawing for wanting to be able to cut more then 6". As an example bandsaw boxes... not everyone is into that but I'd like to be able to make larger ones then I presently can. Another thing I've run into is when the table is tilted at least on my bandsaw you start loosing headroom...

Another thing that happens is when doing scroll cuts, you simply run out of room to turn the wood do to the limited throat distance. I hit the on a regular bases when doing router patterns but it also has happen other times. Those that might think of using a small blade and doing tasks that resemble those done on a scroll saw... the throat is only half that you have with the shopsmith scroll saw.

I'm not saying Ed is wrong and if his friend only uses his saw to do pen blanks a smaller shopsmith size band saw might have been a better purchase. But, it really depends on what you use your bandsaw for... If you are interested in a first bandsaw or in upgrading and have the need or expect to don't stop because some one says it all "hype". If I had to do all over I would have gone with at least a 14" with a riser block and I would have advised that even 30 years ago. Right now my 12" bandsaw is probably the most limiting tool in my shop.

Ed

Talking about big Bandsaws I sometimes believe it is more one upsman ship than need. I have a buddy that has a 18" Bandsaw with a 12" throat that he brags about all the time and I know the only thing he has ever cut on it was 1"x1" pen blank. Yet he talks about how he needs the size and enjoys the freedom his saw size gives him. Phooey! A while back it was tablesaws and blades and motor size now that everyone is finally decided 10" with a 3 horse is enough to cut an elephant in half they have turned their sights on Bandsaws. Of course the Ad pitchmen having kept their hands on the pulse write ads to play right into this thinking. Bigger is better. It that was true we would have butterflies with 3 foot wings spans to quote the editor of magazine 'In Fisherman"

My Shopsmith Bandsaw has never failed to deliver anything I have asked of it. Of course I never try to resaw anything over 6" wide.

[Ed in Tampa]

Hi,

I personally have found plenty of times I have been limited by both the distance from blade to support (throat) and the height/depth of my bandsaw. It is not a shopsmith but is about the same physical size, so the same limitations apply.

I've owned a bandsaw since the early 1970's, that is even before I got my first shopsmith. I was also quite lucky to have access to other bandsaws for different projects over the years.

In those early days I was more into getting raw logs and processing them and had access to a large commercial 18" saw for converting them. To be honest that got old real quick for me and for sure at this point in my life I have no interest to do any more of that. But there are more reasons then resawing for wanting to be able to cut more then 6". As an example bandsaw boxes... not everyone is into that but I'd like to be able to make larger ones then I presently can. Another thing I've run into is when the table is tilted at least on my bandsaw you start loosing headroom...

Another thing that happens is when doing scroll cuts, you simply run out of room to turn the wood do to the limited throat distance. I hit the on a regular bases when doing router patterns but it also has happen other times. Those that might think of using a small blade and doing tasks that resemble those done on a scroll saw... the throat is only half that you have with the shopsmith scroll saw.

I'm not saying Ed is wrong and if his friend only uses his saw to do pen blanks a smaller shopsmith size band saw might have been a better purchase. But, it really depends on what you use your bandsaw for... If you are interested in a first bandsaw or in upgrading and have the need or expect to don't stop because some one says it all "hype". If I had to do all over I would have gone with at least a 14" with a riser block and I would have advised that even 30 years ago. Right now my 12" bandsaw is probably the most limiting tool in my shop.

Ed

Ed
Not to nit pick but I did say it is more about one upsmanship than need.

Of course if you have a real need for a deep throat or a need to resaw wider than 6 inches then of course you need either a three wheel saw, a bigger machine or a saw that allows tall cuts.

What I was talking about is what I see so often a 18" wheel machine sitting in a shop with three year of dust on it.

There is always going to be some limit, what I'm suggestting is not buying the biggest baddest thing on the block to be sure, because even they have a limit.

[shydragon]

I really like the bandsaw. It it one of my most favorite tools. I have been doing some resawing, and once you get used to it, the feeling is very satisfying. Yesterday, resawed 1" thick, 4" high by 40" long madrone. I took my time, and they really came out great. I needed 3/8" material, and a few runs through the planer. I was so excited, I grabbed my finished pieces and ran in to show the other half.

[robinson46176]

[quote="JPG40504"]It does NOT become a training aid UNTIL it comes back out of the box!]



About 5 months of the year the especially ratty stuff goes by the name of "heat".

[mbcabinetmaker]

I agree with Dusty there is no such thing as scrap in a wood shop just smaller and smaller pieces. Especially with todays lumber prices.

Mark

PS. After going back and reading some of the post in this tread,(sorry I just don't have a lot of reading time lately) let me commit on the ragged band saw cuts. I have ran a lot of lumber through a lot of band saws over the years, and I still have to cut close to the line and go back and SAND to the line. This is done with the drum sanders and the strip sander on the Shopsmith. It is very difficult to get a finished product off of the band saw itself.

[beeg]

Thanks all for the tips and info. SORRY about the delay, but I'll be starting the teddy bear rocking chair soon. I now think whats happening is, the gouges are caused by stopping and restarting the cut. I just need to keep cutting with an even pressure.