I've been running a lot of Madrone through the planer, and I noticed more sawdust with the shavings. I've cleaned and ran a honer across the blades. It helped some. So, this morning I placed an order for a set of knives and an additional conical disc sander.
Today, I am going to sharpen the existing knives, (I'm really dreading this, not the sharpening part, but putting the knives back in and getting them aligned). This will be my first time with the planer.
My question: Is there a best way to do this? I mean, do I sharpen one knife, then put it back in and align before going to the next? Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated.
Pro Planer Sharpening/Setup
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Pro Planer Sharpening/Setup
Pat
Oregon
1992 SS 510, 11" Bandsaw on power station, 4" jointer, Pro Planer, Incra Miter 2000, Incra Ultimate Fence Router Pkg, Grizzly 6" Parallelogram Jointer.
Oregon
1992 SS 510, 11" Bandsaw on power station, 4" jointer, Pro Planer, Incra Miter 2000, Incra Ultimate Fence Router Pkg, Grizzly 6" Parallelogram Jointer.
- dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21530
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
I don't feel that you have anything to dread except that it is a fairly time consuming and tedious procedure.
Don't rush yourself. Wait until you have the time (an hour or so) to do the job without becoming anxious.
I hope that you have the manual. I believe a written procedure is mandatory. We don't do this often enough to have the details committed to memory. This procedure is not intuitively obvious.
Take your time and be careful. Those knives will slice a finger wide open in a blink of the eye. DON'T BLINK!
Don't rush yourself. Wait until you have the time (an hour or so) to do the job without becoming anxious.
I hope that you have the manual. I believe a written procedure is mandatory. We don't do this often enough to have the details committed to memory. This procedure is not intuitively obvious.
Take your time and be careful. Those knives will slice a finger wide open in a blink of the eye. DON'T BLINK!
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
That sounds like a good plan. Sharpen one knife and then install it. That way it'll break up the procedure and maybe not be so tedious setting all 3 blades at once?
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
Question about sharpening planer and jointer knives. The paper we get from SS, (the finest being 150), is that fine enough for planer/jointer blades?
Pat
Oregon
1992 SS 510, 11" Bandsaw on power station, 4" jointer, Pro Planer, Incra Miter 2000, Incra Ultimate Fence Router Pkg, Grizzly 6" Parallelogram Jointer.
Oregon
1992 SS 510, 11" Bandsaw on power station, 4" jointer, Pro Planer, Incra Miter 2000, Incra Ultimate Fence Router Pkg, Grizzly 6" Parallelogram Jointer.
Pro Planer Sharpening/Setup
It is what I have been using for many years. I find the Wixey Angle Gauge is excellant for determining the angle you want on the knives as there are many schools of thoughts on the proper angle (37 to 47 degrees) to use. I try to match the existing knife angle so very little metal is removed when sharpening each knife.shydragon wrote:Question about sharpening planer and jointer knives. The paper we get from SS, (the finest being 150), is that fine enough for planer/jointer blades?
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
- curiousgeorge
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 880
- Joined: Tue Feb 27, 2007 1:00 am
- Location: Fort Worth, Texas
How about checking with Ole Nick about this?
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http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Arch ... Knives.htm
http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Arch ... Knives.htm
George
Ft. Worth, TX.
Go TCU Froggies
Ft. Worth, TX.
Go TCU Froggies
- JPG
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Sort of! The repeated passes grind off the high spots left when the previous pass left them due to the motion of the blades past the hills and valleys of the 'grit'.nuhobby wrote:I also recall a thread in which Nick said that repeated passes over the 150 grit conical disk, with the same guide setup, produced lighter sanding each time, which was more or less as effective as going to finer grades of paper.
A finer grit will leave smaller hills and valleys.
Multiple passes is better than one, but finer grit is better still(those hills and valleys are also on the cutting edge)!
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange