Greenie power cord replacement?

hunt0168 · Post by **hunt0168** » Mon May 18, 2009 8:28 pm

Hello Folks, New to the forum and have a question regarding the replacement of the power cord. I've recently purchased an old Greenie that needed a bit of work, and I'm steadily chipping away at getting the old girl functional. The old power cord is badly cracked and brittle and needs replacement. It is of the old 2 prong design with no ground pin. Could somebody offer some input as to the proper specs of the cord needed to replace the old one? Also, is it a possibility that I could use a cord with a ground pin by grounding to the metal case, or is this thinking incorrect? Thanks in advance for any help.

Bob Graves

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Mon May 18, 2009 9:34 pm

hunt0168 wrote:Hello Folks, New to the forum and have a question regarding the replacement of the power cord. I've recently purchased an old Greenie that needed a bit of work, and I'm steadily chipping away at getting the old girl functional. The old power cord is badly cracked and brittle and needs replacement. It is of the old 2 prong design with no ground pin. Could somebody offer some input as to the proper specs of the cord needed to replace the old one? Also, is it a possibility that I could use a cord with a ground pin by grounding to the metal case, or is this thinking incorrect? Thanks in advance for any help.

Bob Graves

I won't label these as proper specs for a replacement cord but this is what I would use.

At minimum, I would use a three wire cord that is 14 gauge and absolutely no longer than required to get to the appropriate outlet. I would like to limit the length of the cord to about 15'. I expect that there will be a lot of discussion on this but that's my position and I'm sticking to it.

The ideal cord would be 12 gauge.

The green wire should be attached to the frame of the motor. Typically a motor has a place for a ground wire but any good secure connection to the metal frame will work.

I prefer molded connector and would suggest that you buy an appropriate 3 conductor extension cord and cut off the unwanted end. Cut it so that you can also have a new extension cord (just buy a socket and plug).

beeg · Post by **beeg** » Mon May 18, 2009 10:45 pm

I hope I'm not to LATE, but DON'T pull the old wires off the connections. Cut them off and leave a couple inches of wire connected. That should help ya when ya go to reconnect the new wire.

a1gutterman · Post by **a1gutterman** » Tue May 19, 2009 12:08 am

hunt0168 wrote:Hello Folks, New to the forum and have a question regarding the replacement of the power cord. I've recently purchased an old Greenie that needed a bit of work, and I'm steadily chipping away at getting the old girl functional. The old power cord is badly cracked and brittle and needs replacement. It is of the old 2 prong design with no ground pin. Could somebody offer some input as to the proper specs of the cord needed to replace the old one? Also, is it a possibility that I could use a cord with a ground pin by grounding to the metal case, or is this thinking incorrect? Thanks in advance for any help.

Bob Graves

Hi Bob,
A 14ga 2 wire w/ground will work. A 12ga 2 wire w/ground wood be better, but some here have had problems getting that size cord through the hole in the headstock. I still have my original cord in use, which is a 14ga 2 wire w/ground. As long as it is plugged into a 20 amp circuit, the 14ga cord is adequate. The green (ground) wire should be connected to the motor housing.

billmayo · Post by **billmayo** » Tue May 19, 2009 12:39 am

dusty wrote:I won't label these as proper specs for a replacement cord but this is what I would use.

At minimum, I would use a three wire cord that is 14 gauge and absolutely no longer than required to get to the appropriate outlet. I would like to limit the length of the cord to about 15'. I expect that there will be a lot of discussion on this but that's my position and I'm sticking to it.

The ideal cord would be 12 gauge.

The green wire should be attached to the frame of the motor. Typically a motor has a place for a ground wire but any good secure connection to the metal frame will work.

I prefer molded connector and would suggest that you buy an appropriate 3 conductor extension cord and cut off the unwanted end. Cut it so that you can also have a new extension cord (just buy a socket and plug).

I fully agree with Dusty. I have been buying and using a #12 15' black extension cord from Lowes and cutting off 3' from the unwanted end. I strip the cord cover back around a foot from the cut end so I have the black and white wires (to the power switch) separate from the green wire which I shorten and connect to the back of the motor. I find different size power cord holes in the motor pans. I use a cord relief to fit the larger holes or use a large tie wrap around the cord inside the motor pan for the smaller hole.

I would recommend checking the motor wiring insulation on any Greenie and replacing these motor power wires with new #12 wires if the insulation is cracked or missing pieces. I find the Greenie motor bearings normally need replacement so it is easy to replace the wires while the motor is disassemblied. I use insulated female terminal connectors for the power switch connections.

bucksaw · Post by **bucksaw** » Tue May 19, 2009 1:10 am

Here's a post with some SS instructions for switch / cord replacement.

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?p=20577&postcount=2

bucksaw · Post by **bucksaw** » Tue May 19, 2009 1:16 am

Shopsmith Wiring

Note: Depending on the age of your Shopsmith, you may find screw or blade terminals on the switch.

See word doc attachment (don't remember who posted this originally).

robinson46176 · Post by **robinson46176** » Tue May 19, 2009 1:31 am

billmayo wrote:I fully agree with Dusty. I have been buying and using a #12 15' black extension cord from Lowes and cutting off 3' from the unwanted end. I strip the cord cover back around a foot from the cut end so I have the black and white wires (to the power switch) separate from the green wire which I shorten and connect to the back of the motor.

That is a good generic length for fixing one up for resale but in my shop when I replace any it will be at least 16' long. The shop is 24' wide and if I pull one out to the center of the floor it is 12' to the wall either way and the outlets are 4' up from the floor which eats another almost 4 feet. I would much rather have some extra cord length than have to plug into an extension even if it was only a few feet long and 12 gauge.

robinson46176 · Post by **robinson46176** » Tue May 19, 2009 1:42 am

billmayo wrote:I fully agree with Dusty. I have been buying and using a #12 15' black extension cord from Lowes and cutting off 3' from the unwanted end. I strip the cord cover back around a foot from the cut end so I have the black and white wires (to the power switch) separate from the green wire which I shorten and connect to the back of the motor.

That is a good generic length for fixing one up for resale but in my shop when I replace any it will be at least 16' long. The shop is 24' wide and if I pull one out to the center of the floor it is 12' to the wall either way and the outlets are 4' up from the floor which eats another almost 4 feet. I would much rather have some extra cord length than have to plug into an extension even if it was only a few feet long and 12 gauge.

hunt0168 · Post by **hunt0168** » Tue May 19, 2009 7:14 am

Thanks for all the replies and links to the different information documents. You guys are great! I picked up the old Greenie (1955 model) with all stock attachments, 4" jointer, a bunch of spare arbors and table inserts, a set of turning chisels and a 2' high stack of 1"X10"X10' cherry for $200.00, so I figured I couldn't go wrong?

It needed/needs a lot of cleaning up and some work. So far I've replaced the control sheave assembly, idler shaft, had the bearings in the quill, Gilmer drive and motor replaced, new belts and working on the power cord. The speed control is functional, but the "PORKCHOP" is worn and shows signs of being mistreated, and needs replacing as well.

After replacing the bearings on the gilmer drive I kind of wish I waited? The gear is pretty well worn in and I fear it will chew up the new belt. I found a drive assembly with gilmer gear @ Battles Hardware that they said is in great shape for $120, but funds are depleated at the moment. I thought about switching to poly v drive as there seem to be many reasonably priced parts selling on ebay etc, but would kind of like to keep it original.

Thanks again, and I'll gladly listen to all the information you guys can shell out!

Bob