Quill is not quite right
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Quill is not quite right
Looking for help with a sloppy quill feed. I was given a Mark V, SN 13894, and have replaced speed control, poly V belt and the drive belt, and lubed everything. The quill feed is not smooth. Any help would be appreciated.
Could you go into a little more explanation as to what you mean by sloppy quill feed. When you extend the quill, is it jerky/difficult to move or is the quill housing lose in the headstock casing?Falcor wrote:Looking for help with a sloppy quill feed. I was given a Mark V, SN 13894, and have replaced speed control, poly V belt and the drive belt, and lubed everything. The quill feed is not smooth. Any help would be appreciated.
I find I have to always remove the quill housing and clean all the sawdust/crud from the teeth on the quill housing and the quill feed pinion. The sawdust/crud often looks like it is part of the teeth as it can get very hard to remove. I use a small flat blade screwdriver to work between the teeth. I also find the top groove on the quill housing can get nicks and a raised edge on each side of the groove. I use a flat file to remove the nicks and raised edges.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
Quill Feed Problems
Bill,
It is mostly jerky and uneven. Seems to be tight on the bearing surfaces. I thought I had done a pretty good job of cleaning the pinion and quill when I had the motor head apart, but I can try again.
I had read about some kind of a quill upgrade for this older model 500. Do you know about that?
It is mostly jerky and uneven. Seems to be tight on the bearing surfaces. I thought I had done a pretty good job of cleaning the pinion and quill when I had the motor head apart, but I can try again.
I had read about some kind of a quill upgrade for this older model 500. Do you know about that?
I'm not sure what year yours was built, but it looks like ya might have the single bearing quill. Which can be upgraded to a double bearing quill.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
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robinson46176
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- Location: Central Indiana (Shelbyville)
beeg wrote:I'm not sure what year yours was built, but it looks like ya might have the single bearing quill. Which can be upgraded to a double bearing quill.
But the double bearing quill will not "feed" any smoother...
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farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
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JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
At least the rack teeth will be clear! If the 'groove' is messed up, a new one will NOT be(until he tightens the set screw on to the edge of the groove or otherwise scars it).robinson46176 wrote:But the double bearing quill will not "feed" any smoother...
This is intended to point out the most likely cause of your rough feeding. With the set screw on the top of the headstock completely out, watch the groove pass by underneath the setscrew hole(do NOT turn on motor!!!!). You should see no burrs on the sides of the groove, and no 'bumps' on the bottom of the groove. Actually this is easier to see with the quill completely out. If the groove looks ok, do take the quill completely out. Do NOT let the quill feed handle move after clearing the rack gear. Look into the quill bore and examine the gear teeth. They should have NO debris in the bottom of the teeth(you should see shiney metal). Examine the quill bore where the quill bears when moving in or out. It should be smooth with no burrs. Finally while the quill is out examine the splined shaft behind the quill outer surface. It should also be free of any 'crud'. Look at the nylon coupler for messed up teeth. The nylon coupler should slide fairly smoothly along the spline. It will be tight, so it will NOT slide easily, but SHOULD slide with no localized binds.
When reinstalling the quill, allow the quill feed handle to retract until there is NO tension(keep your hand on it)(do NOT let it rotate without your hand keeping it from free wheeling). Move the feed handle(towards tail stock at the top) about 1 1/4 turns, hold it there and start the quill into its bore. When it contacts the quill advance gear slightly move the quill handle while pushing the quill in. The teeth should engage. Retract the quill by rotating the feed handle. If the tension does not feel the way you desire, change it by increasing or decreasing the preload(from 1 1/4 turns).
When reinstalling the setscrew on top of the headstock make sure the groove is centered under the hole. Tighten the set screw(gently and back it off about 1/8 turn).
I have assumed you know how to remove and install the nylon coupler(between the quill splines and the upper drive shaft in the top of the headstock).
If you have NOT watched this, Do so!
http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Arch ... _Index.htm
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange