My be I should have titled this a Mr. E Project (sorry I couldn't help myself).
So it has been a while since I did one of these sorts of posts so I hope I don't mess it up too bad. The idea here is for me to post a project with a good number of pictures and throw in some little tricks along the way. I'm not going to tell you what it is for now. Feel free to guess but I would really be surprised anyone will get it from this first days postings. (This is my own idea of how to make this item and the item is a bit obscure).
I'm using items I have in my shop to do this. The t-track is from many years ago when Rockler's was having a sale, the wood is a 1"x2"x8'. T-track hardware is out of one of my peanut butter storage jars. The plastic is UHMW and about 3/4"x4"x4-1/4" and just happens to be that size as a left over from another project.
[ATTACH]4709[/ATTACH]
The first thing I did was to divide the wood in to for pieces all the same size. To do this I used a miter box saw. Since this project is prototype and will be for my use only I decided to pull a Chuck and not do any measuring.
When I finally got the lengths figured out I was ready to cut, well almost, the lines were all established without any kerf's figured in. In other words the if I cut to leave the line the pieces would not be the same length. That is where I pulled a simple little trick out. Digging in my wood supply I found a thin strip that I could fit in between the fences and stick down with some double sided tape. When the saw makes the cut it marks the location of the kerf. (For those that are thinking why not use that red plastic bit that already has a kerf in it... when the saw is tilted it cuts more of the plastic away and it is no longer useful for that purpose.)
[ATTACH]4710[/ATTACH]
Of course I now had to mark the line so it was closer to my reference. This is another tool that I could not or maybe that should read really would not like to live without... the saddle square!!! I'd put one on your shopping list if you don't have one.
[ATTACH]4711[/ATTACH]
Now I can see from behind that the line is centered on the kerf and that means the same amount is coming off each piece, or at least is close enough for not measuring.
[ATTACH]4712[/ATTACH]
More coming....
Mystery project and tips along the way
Moderator: admin
Mystery project and tips along the way
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- raw materials 1.jpg (80.62 KiB) Viewed 3720 times
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- saw trick 2.jpg (62.58 KiB) Viewed 3709 times
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- marking 3.jpg (50.91 KiB) Viewed 3704 times
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- using trick 4.jpg (52.06 KiB) Viewed 3704 times
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
I'm looking forward to the rest of this. This looks like it is going to be interesting project. My guess, an adjustable stop that will slide along the t-track.
I can't see the brand name of your saw, but it sure looks like mine, a craftsman. The problem with mine, the fence isn't co-planar. I bought the saw on sale, and never took it out of the box for a year. So, by the time I finally did, it was too late to take it back.
I can't see the brand name of your saw, but it sure looks like mine, a craftsman. The problem with mine, the fence isn't co-planar. I bought the saw on sale, and never took it out of the box for a year. So, by the time I finally did, it was too late to take it back.
Pat
Oregon
1992 SS 510, 11" Bandsaw on power station, 4" jointer, Pro Planer, Incra Miter 2000, Incra Ultimate Fence Router Pkg, Grizzly 6" Parallelogram Jointer.
Oregon
1992 SS 510, 11" Bandsaw on power station, 4" jointer, Pro Planer, Incra Miter 2000, Incra Ultimate Fence Router Pkg, Grizzly 6" Parallelogram Jointer.
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a1gutterman
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 3653
- Joined: Tue Jan 09, 2007 12:45 am
- Location: "close to" Seattle
I was now ready to start the next phase of the project. Like any good project it had a nice router portion. For today I pulled out my oak park table, yes like the one that is/was used on The Router Workshop. I got it before they added that neat sawdust pick-up system... oh well.
For those that are not familiar with the show or this style of routing please notice the fence, that is that white material with the special c-clamps holding it across the table. No fancy adjustments/gadgets/or scales to get you to .001" Yes what you see is what you get.
[ATTACH]4718[/ATTACH]
Please note the use of an insert to reduce the size of the hole when using a 1/4" bit. To me this option is a MUST, they support the stock near the bit, reduce splinter and kickback.
[ATTACH]4719[/ATTACH]
Again with out measuring I set up and did the routing of the UHMW plastic so it would fit in the t-track. I left the plastic full size so it would be easier to work with, cutting the t-track sections on two opposite sides. I milled it enough so it was a nice sliding fit using the tap the fence method for those changes and the height was adjusted using the router. I have a picture that will show the part a bit later in this thread.
The wood also required a bit of routing. In this case I decided on keeping a low fence and going to a rabbeting bit. In this case the bit is large enough that it did not require an insert but being so narrow and an open fence would pose a possible problem.
[ATTACH]4715[/ATTACH]
In case you are having trouble picturing what might happen this next picture might help you understand... well maybe that is a little over board but you should "get it" anyhow.
[ATTACH]4717[/ATTACH]
So do I have a better idea? You will have to keep reading on my next post.
For those that are not familiar with the show or this style of routing please notice the fence, that is that white material with the special c-clamps holding it across the table. No fancy adjustments/gadgets/or scales to get you to .001" Yes what you see is what you get.
[ATTACH]4718[/ATTACH]
Please note the use of an insert to reduce the size of the hole when using a 1/4" bit. To me this option is a MUST, they support the stock near the bit, reduce splinter and kickback.
[ATTACH]4719[/ATTACH]
Again with out measuring I set up and did the routing of the UHMW plastic so it would fit in the t-track. I left the plastic full size so it would be easier to work with, cutting the t-track sections on two opposite sides. I milled it enough so it was a nice sliding fit using the tap the fence method for those changes and the height was adjusted using the router. I have a picture that will show the part a bit later in this thread.
The wood also required a bit of routing. In this case I decided on keeping a low fence and going to a rabbeting bit. In this case the bit is large enough that it did not require an insert but being so narrow and an open fence would pose a possible problem.
[ATTACH]4715[/ATTACH]
In case you are having trouble picturing what might happen this next picture might help you understand... well maybe that is a little over board but you should "get it" anyhow.
[ATTACH]4717[/ATTACH]
So do I have a better idea? You will have to keep reading on my next post.
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- not a good way to go 7.jpg (36.84 KiB) Viewed 3674 times
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- a bit overkill 8.jpg (38.85 KiB) Viewed 3676 times
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- oak park table 5.jpg (42.16 KiB) Viewed 3692 times
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- brass insert for better support 6.jpg (43.2 KiB) Viewed 3697 times
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
As you might recall we were about to do some routing on the wood portion of this project. But we were running in to a potentially disaster if not down right dangerous situation.
The "text book" solution that is often used is to use a larger backer board as show here:
[ATTACH]4721[/ATTACH]
However here is one I sometimes use. I take double stick tape and stick the pieces together. I clamp them for a short while to make sure the are stuck. (I personally buy tape designed for this sort of purpose not generic carpet tape).
[ATTACH]4722[/ATTACH]
I also have clamp on the far end to make sure this all hangs together. You can see the clamp on the far left side of this picture.
[ATTACH]4723[/ATTACH]
In this next picture you can see how nice and wide it is now, no problem doing the job now. One thing you might notice is missing is some way of preventing tear out. Since this will be flipped over and run again it would be more work to add two more boards so it might have been best to use a block to push the stock through and let that get cut into. This time I just didn't worry about it and let the chip outs fly.
[ATTACH]4724[/ATTACH]
Now I'll show you the purpose of all the routing that was done. Yep chip out but other then that things are fitting.
[ATTACH]4725[/ATTACH]
To this point the shopsmith has not made an appearance. That will be changing... when we get to the drilling portion of the project coming up next.
The "text book" solution that is often used is to use a larger backer board as show here:
[ATTACH]4721[/ATTACH]
However here is one I sometimes use. I take double stick tape and stick the pieces together. I clamp them for a short while to make sure the are stuck. (I personally buy tape designed for this sort of purpose not generic carpet tape).
[ATTACH]4722[/ATTACH]
I also have clamp on the far end to make sure this all hangs together. You can see the clamp on the far left side of this picture.
[ATTACH]4723[/ATTACH]
In this next picture you can see how nice and wide it is now, no problem doing the job now. One thing you might notice is missing is some way of preventing tear out. Since this will be flipped over and run again it would be more work to add two more boards so it might have been best to use a block to push the stock through and let that get cut into. This time I just didn't worry about it and let the chip outs fly.
[ATTACH]4724[/ATTACH]
Now I'll show you the purpose of all the routing that was done. Yep chip out but other then that things are fitting.
[ATTACH]4725[/ATTACH]
To this point the shopsmith has not made an appearance. That will be changing... when we get to the drilling portion of the project coming up next.
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- option one 9.jpg (49.98 KiB) Viewed 3665 times
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- option two sided tape 10.jpg (50.94 KiB) Viewed 3659 times
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- stuck together 11.jpg (52.12 KiB) Viewed 3662 times
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- nice and wide now 12.jpg (54.3 KiB) Viewed 3657 times
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- sized to fit 13.jpg (73.92 KiB) Viewed 3647 times
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
I have a whole bag of tricks that I use for drilling operations. Like the one I'm going to show you make sure you understand what I did and how I got away with it so to speak. You do this stuff wrong and you can damage your equipment or yourself.
So lets get started with the trick. I need to drill the plastic part(s) (remember this is really 4 parts but kept together to make it easy to work with/on). As it turns out the t-track hardware will require an oval hole. The radius of that hole is 3/4". The plastic and wood are all 3/4" material, and again I'm trying not to measure anything here. So the trick is to use the 3/4" Forstner bit, by setting the fence face so it just touches the bit and locking everything down the center of the bit is now 3/8" from the fence. DANGER if you were attempt to drill anything right next to the fence it might/could/would be likely that the bit might damage your fence. Please put a fence face on your fence if that is the case.
In this case the plastic part is taller then the fence and the bit is never going to be near the fence.
[ATTACH]4726[/ATTACH]
Again without measuring I figured out how deep the holes needed to go so that the hardware would fit in the plastic and the t-track. I set the depth stop and drilled the center hole. Then by eye I took off a bit from each of the drilled edges to create the oval. I checked to make sure the bolts fit and moved on.
A second through hole is needed for the bolt, the hardware is 5/16" so I picked a letter drill for clearance and drill a bit more the half way though the plastic then flipped the part over and drilled the hole to meet the near the center. The Forstner bit had left a nice starting location which is what I used for the second operation. It was not necessary to move the fence as these through holes were also on the same center line.
[ATTACH]4727[/ATTACH]
This next picture shows the ball of plastic and bits used. You might also note the dental pick I used to pull the ribbons of plastic off the bits. Don't use your finger unless you don't mind testing how shape the edges of a drill bit are... (Not advised).
[ATTACH]4728[/ATTACH]
Like I said it would be almost impossible to figure out what I'm building from what I've shown you. Don't worry it will all be clear in a few days.
So lets get started with the trick. I need to drill the plastic part(s) (remember this is really 4 parts but kept together to make it easy to work with/on). As it turns out the t-track hardware will require an oval hole. The radius of that hole is 3/4". The plastic and wood are all 3/4" material, and again I'm trying not to measure anything here. So the trick is to use the 3/4" Forstner bit, by setting the fence face so it just touches the bit and locking everything down the center of the bit is now 3/8" from the fence. DANGER if you were attempt to drill anything right next to the fence it might/could/would be likely that the bit might damage your fence. Please put a fence face on your fence if that is the case.
In this case the plastic part is taller then the fence and the bit is never going to be near the fence.
[ATTACH]4726[/ATTACH]
Again without measuring I figured out how deep the holes needed to go so that the hardware would fit in the plastic and the t-track. I set the depth stop and drilled the center hole. Then by eye I took off a bit from each of the drilled edges to create the oval. I checked to make sure the bolts fit and moved on.
A second through hole is needed for the bolt, the hardware is 5/16" so I picked a letter drill for clearance and drill a bit more the half way though the plastic then flipped the part over and drilled the hole to meet the near the center. The Forstner bit had left a nice starting location which is what I used for the second operation. It was not necessary to move the fence as these through holes were also on the same center line.
[ATTACH]4727[/ATTACH]
This next picture shows the ball of plastic and bits used. You might also note the dental pick I used to pull the ribbons of plastic off the bits. Don't use your finger unless you don't mind testing how shape the edges of a drill bit are... (Not advised).
[ATTACH]4728[/ATTACH]
Like I said it would be almost impossible to figure out what I'm building from what I've shown you. Don't worry it will all be clear in a few days.
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- yet another trick 14.jpg (48.02 KiB) Viewed 3631 times
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- drilled large hole 15.jpg (29.33 KiB) Viewed 3620 times
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- drills and plastic 16.jpg (69.77 KiB) Viewed 3624 times
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
I always love a good mystery and just because I can I'll throw another one in the mix but at least this one can be solved from what is in this batch of posts.
The plastic piece was then cut into 4 pieces according to my master plan. Now I'm going to show you a picture and ask is this an error or a design intent. (This is the mini mystery).
[ATTACH]4729[/ATTACH]
While you are thinking on that we head back to the drill press and yes the fence is still in the same location. You that have Kreg pocket hole kits might not have thought to much about other uses then using the bit with the jigs. Well guess what you can drill pocket holes or straight stepped holes with the bit. Yes I know that is a given for the old timers but some of the younger/less experienced people might have not thought this out that far yet.
[ATTACH]4730[/ATTACH]
In this case I'm using the bit and screws to attach the wood to the plastic. This is also key to why the plastic parts are off set... OH NO I guess I wrecked that mystery. The parts were designed that way... sorry to those that thought I had made a misteak.
Now for the last of this set. No it is not going to help you solve the big mystery but it will keep you busy for a least a few second trying to figure out what that heck is going on...
[ATTACH]4731[/ATTACH]
Not to sure when I will be able to get back to this but the main parts still need some work and then I will have to make a few attachments to show you how it all goes together.
Ed
The plastic piece was then cut into 4 pieces according to my master plan. Now I'm going to show you a picture and ask is this an error or a design intent. (This is the mini mystery).
[ATTACH]4729[/ATTACH]
While you are thinking on that we head back to the drill press and yes the fence is still in the same location. You that have Kreg pocket hole kits might not have thought to much about other uses then using the bit with the jigs. Well guess what you can drill pocket holes or straight stepped holes with the bit. Yes I know that is a given for the old timers but some of the younger/less experienced people might have not thought this out that far yet.
[ATTACH]4730[/ATTACH]
In this case I'm using the bit and screws to attach the wood to the plastic. This is also key to why the plastic parts are off set... OH NO I guess I wrecked that mystery. The parts were designed that way... sorry to those that thought I had made a misteak.
Now for the last of this set. No it is not going to help you solve the big mystery but it will keep you busy for a least a few second trying to figure out what that heck is going on...
[ATTACH]4731[/ATTACH]
Not to sure when I will be able to get back to this but the main parts still need some work and then I will have to make a few attachments to show you how it all goes together.
Ed
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- error or design intent 17.jpg (33.59 KiB) Viewed 3622 times
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- bit from kreg set 18.jpg (70.29 KiB) Viewed 3652 times
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- start of assembly 19.jpg (47.12 KiB) Viewed 3637 times
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
Hi,
Sorry to hear you saw was DOA at least fence wise. Yes mine is a Craftsman 10" with laser that my son got for me on sale and with his employee discount so the price was right. This is the one I loaned out to my kids until they got their own and every time it returned it was out of whack. Other then that I've been happy with it.
Oh BTW your guess is wrong, but keep trying.
Ed
Sorry to hear you saw was DOA at least fence wise. Yes mine is a Craftsman 10" with laser that my son got for me on sale and with his employee discount so the price was right. This is the one I loaned out to my kids until they got their own and every time it returned it was out of whack. Other then that I've been happy with it.
Oh BTW your guess is wrong, but keep trying.
Ed
shydragon wrote:I'm looking forward to the rest of this. This looks like it is going to be interesting project. My guess, an adjustable stop that will slide along the t-track.
I can't see the brand name of your saw, but it sure looks like mine, a craftsman. The problem with mine, the fence isn't co-planar. I bought the saw on sale, and never took it out of the box for a year. So, by the time I finally did, it was too late to take it back.
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]