Hand Planes

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Sat May 30, 2009 10:59 pm

Yep! There are two Major Basic Knowledges that bring enjoyment to woodworking and at the same time avoid frustration. They are:

1) Understand the structure the wood you are working with.
2) Know how to sharpen all the tools you use. Of course you have to know when they are not sharp.

Number 2 includes knowing where to farm out your sharpening job(s) and getting the help or sharpening jig that will let you do the job.

shydragon · Post by **shydragon** » Sat May 30, 2009 11:36 pm

I have the Worksharp 3000, I'm still new to it though. I've used it for chisels, does a great job. I don't have the wide blade attachment, although I did try to use it to flatten a plane blade. I think I'll need some practise. Rockler sent me a 25% off coupon, it was only good for today. I should have used it for the wide blade attacment.

tdubnik · Post by **tdubnik** » Sun May 31, 2009 5:32 am

shydragon wrote:I have the Worksharp 3000, I'm still new to it though. I've used it for chisels, does a great job. I don't have the wide blade attachment, although I did try to use it to flatten a plane blade. I think I'll need some practise. Rockler sent me a 25% off coupon, it was only good for today. I should have used it for the wide blade attacment.

The key is to keep everything flat and to go slow until you get the hang of it. You'll also need to clean/change abrasives pretty often.

On my plane irons, I only flatten the 1/2" or so closest to the cutting edge. The rest doesn't really matter. I start with the 400 grit and move up through the grits to 1500. I then use the honing disk to finish off. To keep the back truly flat, bring the blade to the wheel with the cutting edge slightly off the wheel and then pivot the blade down until it lies flat on the wheel. Use slight pressure and remove the blade when it gets warm. Repeat the process until you get even scratch marks over the first 1/2" of the blade and then move to the next grit. Flattening the back is a one time thing and once you get it flat you can just sharpen the edge from then on.

Hope this helps.

mtobey · Post by **mtobey** » Sun May 31, 2009 8:25 am

I have actually taught a handtool sharpening day-long workshop. Note that even premier makers like Lie-Nielsen and Lee Valley/Veritas recommend a sharpening before use. Their blades come sharp "enough" for some. I use Wolverine or Tormek and finish out on Shaptons and leather. I also give pretty good workouts to the biggest DMT diamond Duo-Sharps which also flatten my stones and I keep a good inventory of the all metal Dia-Sharps as well.
A well tuned handplane can take half a thousandth. With the accuracy built into my Shopsmiths and properly fettled planes I can do precision unparalleled by anything else. In luthier and handtool forums where I hang out, I "promote" Shopsmith whenever I can. They don't know what they are missing.

shydragon · Post by **shydragon** » Sun May 31, 2009 10:30 am

I tried flattening on the WS3000 and not too bad. I didn't get it perfectly flat, but I can finish that on a stone. At least now it won't take as long. I have 3 more blades to do. I think by that time, I should have the hang of it.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sun May 31, 2009 6:15 pm

Have you had your Work Sharp long enough to say whether or not you would recommend it to others. It is for sale at my local Woodcraft right now for $199.00. I am thinking real hard about going to get one tomorrow.

I spend a lot of time hand sharpening and I'm not always pleased with the results even after all that time.

I do fairly well on my flat chisels but then maybe I don't know. It is possible that I have never used a really sharp chisel.

mbcabinetmaker · Post by **mbcabinetmaker** » Sun May 31, 2009 6:32 pm

I use the scary sharp approach on my hand planes and chisels. I have a slab of granite and and use wet sand paper from 150 to 800 grit. It takes a little time but they are verrrrry sharp. I also have the Wolverine Grinding system that I use for lathe tools and everyday chisels.

Mark

curiousgeorge · Post by **curiousgeorge** » Sun May 31, 2009 6:53 pm

mbcabinetmaker wrote:I use the scary sharp approach on my hand planes and chisels. I have a slab of granite and and use wet sand paper from 150 to 800 grit. It takes a little time but they are verrrrry sharp. I also have the Wolverine Grinding system that I use for lathe tools and everyday chisels.

Mark

Ditto! That is exactly how I do it.

fjimp · Post by **fjimp** » Sun May 31, 2009 8:15 pm

dusty wrote:Have you had your Work Sharp long enough to say whether or not you would recommend it to others. It is for sale at my local Woodcraft right now for $199.00. I am thinking real hard about going to get one tomorrow.

I spend a lot of time hand sharpening and I'm not always pleased with the results even after all that time.

I do fairly well on my flat chisels but then maybe I don't know. It is possible that I have never used a really sharp chisel.

Dusty,

I have had mine for several months. Flat chisels are a snap. In fact so far everything I have tried suggest this may be the best sharpening option to come along. I would buy it all over again. Incidentally mine came from Amazon.com for ness money and free shipping. fjimp

a1gutterman · Post by **a1gutterman** » Sun May 31, 2009 8:29 pm

dusty wrote:Have you had your Work Sharp long enough to say whether or not you would recommend it to others. It is for sale at my local Woodcraft right now for $199.00. I am thinking real hard about going to get one tomorrow.

I spend a lot of time hand sharpening and I'm not always pleased with the results even after all that time.

I do fairly well on my flat chisels but then maybe I don't know. It is possible that I have never used a really sharp chisel.

Hi Dusty,
Have you seen this thread???