Thanks all for the great advice.
Glad to see this is an active forum and community of people who really care about preserving these classic machines. I really think these ShopSmiths optimize 1950's-60's Americana. Multi-function in a clean design.
In terms of the restoration, this will be a summer project when I have time (I work 12 hour night shift 7pm to 7am). My goal is to take my time and do it right. The plan is to sandblast the big stuff (legs, castings, etc.) lathe all four tubes, then work the small stuff by hand. I am going to replace all the bearings as I have access to a veritable catalog of them at work and can order what ever I need. Also, I have access to industrial cleaners, polishes, and other heavy duty stuff which should help the process along.
Moving forward, deconstruction day should be tomorrow night with pics included. Wish me luck
Dwight
A new restoration project...
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judaspre1982
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Last edited by judaspre1982 on Thu May 18, 2017 6:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Welcome to this forum Dwight. Hope ya enjoy our merry bunch of woodworkers.
Now about the motor and the gilmer drive. That would cost about $800. in parts.
Now about the motor and the gilmer drive. That would cost about $800. in parts.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
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mickyd
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- Location: San Diego, CA
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Dwight - Make sure to register in the Greenie poll
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=3518
Read post 1 post before you answer.
Also, participate in this "Where you live in the country poll" also.
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=3141
Again, read post 1 first
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=3518
Read post 1 post before you answer.
Also, participate in this "Where you live in the country poll" also.
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=3141
Again, read post 1 first
Mike
Sunny San Diego
Sunny San Diego
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ajohnson024
- Silver Member
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- Joined: Mon Jun 08, 2009 11:55 pm
- Location: Raleigh, NC
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ajohnson024
- Silver Member
- Posts: 8
- Joined: Mon Jun 08, 2009 11:55 pm
- Location: Raleigh, NC
Hello again.
I've started breaking my beaut down and I'm got some questions that ya'll may be able to help me with....
First, I found a dent in the back cover of my headstock. What is the best technique for getting this out? I've decided to go with electroylsis for the rust removal so should I get the dent out first or clean it up then try to get it out. I was going to try and put the piece on a stiff pillow and hammer it out with a ball pien hammer but I'm looking for a more accurate technique.
Secondly, how do I remove the way tubes? I can't get them to budge and certainly don't want to crank on them with a pipe wrench and mar the metal.
Also, what is the best technique for cleaning the logo pieces? They need a good sanding but I don't want to remove the red paint. Any ideas?
There are some more issues I'm having but these seem to be the most pressing. Thanks in advance for any ideas you may have....
Dwight
I've started breaking my beaut down and I'm got some questions that ya'll may be able to help me with....
First, I found a dent in the back cover of my headstock. What is the best technique for getting this out? I've decided to go with electroylsis for the rust removal so should I get the dent out first or clean it up then try to get it out. I was going to try and put the piece on a stiff pillow and hammer it out with a ball pien hammer but I'm looking for a more accurate technique.
Secondly, how do I remove the way tubes? I can't get them to budge and certainly don't want to crank on them with a pipe wrench and mar the metal.
Also, what is the best technique for cleaning the logo pieces? They need a good sanding but I don't want to remove the red paint. Any ideas?
There are some more issues I'm having but these seem to be the most pressing. Thanks in advance for any ideas you may have....
Dwight
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JPG
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- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
First you remove the tie bar from the end of the way tubes. Make sure the setscrews(underneath the way tubes) are removed. Then GENTLY and EVENLY tap the tie bar to the end of the tubes. It is best to support the tubes/headstock etc. while doing this. An easy way to do this is to raise the way tubes etc. and put a board under the table legs protruding below the carriage. Table height locked of course. This will leave the tie bar end suspended above the bench tubes etc.
Slide the headstock off the now open end of the waytubes. Repeat for the table carriage. Raise the waytubes to the vertical position and remove the setscrews on that end of the waytubes. pull the waytubes out of the end casting(straight out). There may be a slight burr on the way tubes caused by tightening the setscrews INTO the waytubes. This burr will tend to make removal less than easy.
Slide the headstock off the now open end of the waytubes. Repeat for the table carriage. Raise the waytubes to the vertical position and remove the setscrews on that end of the waytubes. pull the waytubes out of the end casting(straight out). There may be a slight burr on the way tubes caused by tightening the setscrews INTO the waytubes. This burr will tend to make removal less than easy.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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mickyd
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Mon Feb 09, 2009 1:18 pm
- Location: San Diego, CA
- Contact:
ajohnson024 wrote:Hello again.
I've started breaking my beaut down and I'm got some questions that ya'll may be able to help me with....
First, I found a dent in the back cover of my headstock. What is the best technique for getting this out? I've decided to go with electroylsis for the rust removal so should I get the dent out first or clean it up then try to get it out. I was going to try and put the piece on a stiff pillow and hammer it out with a ball pien hammer but I'm looking for a more accurate technique.
Secondly, how do I remove the way tubes? I can't get them to budge and certainly don't want to crank on them with a pipe wrench and mar the metal.
Also, what is the best technique for cleaning the logo pieces? They need a good sanding but I don't want to remove the red paint. Any ideas?
There are some more issues I'm having but these seem to be the most pressing. Thanks in advance for any ideas you may have....
Dwight
Dwight,
The dent in your belt cover will have to be dealt with in a similar fashion as body work on a car, including finishing the job with body filler if cosmetically, you'd like it to look new. If you've never done it, it's not all that difficult. Watch a few you tube videos and read some web articles.
Make sure you only use electrolysis on the steel parts (tubes, motor cover, belt cover) NO ALUMINUM. Use sheet metal vs. rods for the sacrificial anode material.
Mike
Sunny San Diego
Sunny San Diego