Saw Arbors

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rwyoung
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Saw Arbors

Post by rwyoung »

What is the difference between a 5/8 inch saw blade arbor for a 500 and that for a 510? They list different arbors for the Model 500 and the 510 in the Shopsmith catalog. I bought a 500 30+ years ago, and upgraded to a 510 8 or 10 years ago. I'm still using the same 1 1/4 inch arbors that I got 30+ years ago with no problems. Therefore why would I have problems with the 5/8 inch arbor?
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perryobear
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Post by perryobear »

rwyoung wrote:What is the difference between a 5/8 inch saw blade arbor for a 500 and that for a 510? They list different arbors for the Model 500 and the 510 in the Shopsmith catalog. I bought a 500 30+ years ago, and upgraded to a 510 8 or 10 years ago. I'm still using the same 1 1/4 inch arbors that I got 30+ years ago with no problems. Therefore why would I have problems with the 5/8 inch arbor?
Hi RW,

I guess the short answer is that you should be having a problem with the 1-1/4" arbor. If you are using the entire 510 setup, you need the 510 saw arbor to properly position the saw blade for the 510's upper and lower blade guards. The same is true for the 5/8" saw arbor. The 500 to 510 upgrade kit comes with a new 1-1/4" saw arbor as part of the package, any chance that this is the 1-1/4" saw arbor that you have been using?

I have started a collection of photos of my various Shopsmith arbors. The last two photos compare the 1-1/4" arbor from my 1958 SS500 and my 1989 SS510.

http://picasaweb.google.com/PERRYOBEAR/SSARBORS#

I hope this helps.

Best regards,

Dennis
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

rwyoung wrote:What is the difference between a 5/8 inch saw blade arbor for a 500 and that for a 510? They list different arbors for the Model 500 and the 510 in the Shopsmith catalog. I bought a 500 30+ years ago, and upgraded to a 510 8 or 10 years ago. I'm still using the same 1 1/4 inch arbors that I got 30+ years ago with no problems. Therefore why would I have problems with the 5/8 inch arbor?
When you 'upgraded', did you change the stop ring which spaces the carriage to the headstock when the carriage is slid up against it? You should HAVE to adjust the quill(out) for proper blade to slot alignment when using the older style 1 1/4" arbor.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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dusty
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Saw Arbors

Post by dusty »

If there is NO stop ring installed on the Way Tubes, will the Carriage move close enough to the headstock to align the blade (without using the quill) when using a 500 saw arbor?
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perryobear
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Post by perryobear »

dusty wrote:If there is NO stop ring installed on the Way Tubes, will the Carriage move close enough to the headstock to align the blade (without using the quill) when using a 500 saw arbor?
Hi Dusty,

Yes, if there is no rubber stop ring on the Way Tubes, the 510 carriage will move close enough to the headstock to align a blade mounted on a 500 saw arbor in the center of a 510 table saw insert with the quill fully retracted. (However you will not be able to use the 510's upper and lower saw guards.)

Dennis
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

perryobear wrote:Hi Dusty,

Yes, if there is no rubber stop ring on the Way Tubes, the 510 carriage will move close enough to the headstock to align a blade mounted on a 500 saw arbor in the center of a 510 table saw insert with the quill fully retracted. (However you will not be able to use the 510's upper and lower saw guards.)

Dennis

Thank you, Dennis. Actually, this is just good to know information for me since I don't have any 500 arbors. But there have been so many questions lately about 500 operations versus 510 operations. I just thought it would be good to know.

It makes me want to go buy a Goldie so that I could do in shop comparisons.

It also makes me wonder if there might be an educational grant available to pay the bills.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
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Post by beeg »

dusty wrote: It also makes me wonder if there might be an educational grant available to pay the bills.

Dusty, go for a Government grant.:D
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

dusty wrote:Thank you, Dennis. Actually, this is just good to know information for me since I don't have any 500 arbors. But there have been so many questions lately about 500 operations versus 510 operations. I just thought it would be good to know.

It makes me want to go buy a Goldie so that I could do in shop comparisons.

It also makes me wonder if there might be an educational grant available to pay the bills.
You do NOT need to go all the way back to a Goldie! A SS Inc. 500 Mark V is the same re tables and arbors.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
chan42
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Which Arbor To Use?

Post by chan42 »

I normally use the 5/8" bore saw arbor so I can use non-SS blades (Timberwolf, etc). Most reputable saw blade makers will bore the 1 1/4" for the SS "native" saw arbor.

My question is what is the gain/loss for using the SS bore over the universal 5/8" bore?

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8iowa
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Post by 8iowa »

The 5/8" bore, with its small nut and washer doesn't support the blade very well, so many woodworkers use stiffners on the blade. The 1 1/4" arbor grips the blade further from the center and acts as a stiffner.

This becomes even more important when you use thin kerf blades.
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