Attaching pegboard to a cinder block wall

hobbydad · Post by **hobbydad** » Fri Jul 10, 2009 8:53 am

Thanks to everyone for all of the great ideas. Time to go use that Father's day gift card!

Loren

robinson46176 · Post by **robinson46176** » Fri Jul 10, 2009 10:04 am

ryanbp01 wrote:Gotta love those French cleats! It's an easy way to hang cabinets as well!!
BPR

Is there any experience that 45 degrees is the best angle to cut them? I can see an advantage at times since you could cut both the wall part and the hanging piece out of one piece and in one cut but I wonder if at times a longer angle with a wider cut surface might hold better in the case of a hung item that might be more prone to getting bumped? Any thoughts?
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The thought has crossed my mind of making wall areas with a whole series of long cleats spaced at maybe a foot apart down the wall and being able to hang any number of different items, small cabinets, brackets for tool groupings etc. and being able to relocate them at will much like T-rail paneling but much cheaper.
Of course the cleat on the item being hung would need to extend past the back of the item by the thickness of the cleat since the face of the wall cleats would in a sense be the new wall face.

foxtrapper · Post by **foxtrapper** » Fri Jul 10, 2009 10:45 am

Expansion type anchors are disasterous in cinderblocks. Don't do that. They don't hold well, and spall off large sections of the cinderblock when they let go. You really need a through type anchor for cinderblock.

You also need to offset the pegboard from the wall, or else you'll never get a peg into it. Furring strips are enough offset.

Moisture can be quite a problem if the cinderblock wall is against dirt on the other side. If so, take appropriate vapor measures.

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Fri Jul 10, 2009 11:02 am

tom_k/mo wrote:Loren, another thing you might consider... I build a whole wall of shelves in the basement attached to the wall. I took a 2x4 upright, put a good ribbon of Liquid Nail on the board and used a couple concrete nails to attach it to the wall. Once the Liquid Nail is dry, it's on there for GOOD...

Tom
I once believed as you do in Liquid nails, however things change. When I originally built my shop in my garage I used Liquid nails and concrete anchors to hold shelves and cabinets to my concrete block walls.
I decided to redo my shop and thought I was in for a nightmare having to remove the shelving and cabinets. Much to my surprize the liquid nails presented absolutely no problem. It peeled off the wall or off the shelf unit and with a mimumium of scraping it was gone. I was shocked! Basically the wall anchors was what held the cabinets and shelfs up. But even they have become lose.

My experience now has convinced me to use either Tapcons or anchors (that kind that are two part and that wedge tighter as the screw is pulled into them).

I do believe liquid nails now has a new formulation out for bonding wood to concrete but I'm not convinced.

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Fri Jul 10, 2009 11:02 am

tom_k/mo wrote:Loren, another thing you might consider... I build a whole wall of shelves in the basement attached to the wall. I took a 2x4 upright, put a good ribbon of Liquid Nail on the board and used a couple concrete nails to attach it to the wall. Once the Liquid Nail is dry, it's on there for GOOD...

Tom
I once believed as you do in Liquid nails, however things change. When I originally built my shop in my garage I used Liquid nails and concrete anchors to hold shelves and cabinets to my concrete block walls.
I decided to redo my shop and thought I was in for a nightmare having to remove the shelving and cabinets. Much to my surprize the liquid nails presented absolutely no problem. It peeled off the wall or off the shelf unit and with a mimumium of scraping it was gone. I was shocked! Basically the wall anchors was what held the cabinets and shelfs up. But even they have become lose.

My experience now has convinced me to use either Tapcons or anchors (that kind that are two part and that wedge tighter as the screw is pulled into them).

I do believe liquid nails now has a new formulation out for bonding wood to concrete but I'm not convinced.

tom_k/mo · Post by **tom_k/mo** » Fri Jul 10, 2009 11:34 am

Ed, I have only attempted removing a Liquid Nail glued board from concrete once. My father was a contractor, and one time I was helping him on a job where we were finishing a basement. We had taken a 2x4 and glued it to the floor and shot 2 nails into it,then framed up the wall to the floor joist. The following day the home owner decided they wanted to re-arrange the room a bit, and move the wall to a new location. We pulled the nails from the top of the wall where it was attached to the floor joists. Dad pushed on the top of the studs to tip it over and it broke about 1/8" deep from the surface from the concrete floor where it was glued.

a1gutterman · Post by **a1gutterman** » Sat Jul 11, 2009 12:43 am

robinson46176 wrote:Is there any experience that 45 degrees is the best angle to cut them? I can see an advantage at times since you could cut both the wall part and the hanging piece out of one piece and in one cut but I wonder...

Think a minute, farmer: Regardless of the angle, you can cut both pieces at the same time and from one piece (as long as the piece is wide enough).

robinson46176 · Post by **robinson46176** » Sat Jul 11, 2009 7:45 am

[quote="a1gutterman"]Think a minute, farmer: Regardless of the angle, you can cut both pieces at the same time and from one piece (as long as the piece is wide enough). ]

"DUH"!!

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Some days...

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sat Jul 11, 2009 9:28 am

robinson46176 wrote:"DUH"!!
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Some days...

YEP! Same parallel side geometry that I overlooked regarding Tom's wine bottle holder. "Flip the workpiece END for END" - NOT the 'other way' which WOULD require a re setup.

LESSON: There are TWO(2) ways to flip a workpiece over so as to 'address' the OPPOSITE parallel surface.

alinkrod · Post by **alinkrod** » Sun Jul 19, 2009 7:09 pm

after 23 yrs in construction I have seen thousands of ways to anchor stuff.

Here is a cheap easy fix for both block and concrete, NOT BRICK!!!

standard 16p coated sinker nails
roll of Iron binding wire used to tie re-bar
hammer drill with standard Tap-Con drill bit

Setup and prep the same as tap-con's but instead cut 2 or 3 6" lengths of binding wire, bend 1" L in each and place 2 in hole and DRIVE 16p in.

3 of them in a 8' 2x4 and you can hang 500 lbs easy. BTW if you try to remove the 2x4, plan on using a HEAVY wrecking bar to do it like the ones made by Burk Inc. nails will pull thru 2x4 before they pull out. If you want more holding power add a fender washer to the head of the nail.

If you want easier removal, use weed wacker line instead of the wire..

Hope this helps, Rod

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Attaching pegboard to a cinder block wall

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