TIP - Adjustable Story Stick

navycop · Post by **navycop** » Mon Aug 24, 2009 12:27 pm

I like this forum because charlese had a good idea and he shared it. He didn't charge a fee for a set of plans like alot of people do. There are a couple other people on here that do good work (strike that) GREAT work and are willing to share it. I never feel embaressed to ask a question. It might seem stupid or simple to figure out, but nobody judges.

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Mon Aug 24, 2009 1:04 pm

Chuck
From all the glowing accolades your recieving it is evident to me that I don't understand how you use your story stick.

I can see how you use it to check (in this case) the width of the cabinet but what about the length of the legs, the spacing of the dadoes, the width of the dadoes the overall height of the cabinet and etc?

A story stick to me is to tell the whole story of the project being made.

I was taught to make the story stick length to the max size of the project.
On one side to mark all the vertical or length details starting at either the top or bottom. On the other side of the story stick to mark all the horizontal or width details and depending on whether the width or the length was the longest to put the depth details on the other end of the shortest side.

Then I was taught to use the story stick marking to set all machining adjustment for the product. For initial board length I would lay the story stick and use the beginning and end mark to precisely cut my board. To cut dadoes in the board I would use the story stick to precise locate the dadoes and set the dado width.

My story sticks usually have a lot of writting on them pointing to various marks identifing them as drawer width, drawer bottom width, rail placement and width and etc.

I don't see how you do this on your story stick. I seems like a excellent way to duplicate one dimension but I thought story sticks were to include all the dimensions of the project. In other words the whole story not just one sentence of the story. I'm evidently missing something from your design. Please help me understand.

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Mon Aug 24, 2009 4:10 pm

Ed in Tampa wrote:Chuck
From all the glowing accolades your receiving it is evident to me that I don't understand how you use your story stick....
A story stick to me is to tell the whole story of the project being made....

....My story sticks usually have a lot of writing on them pointing to various marks identifying them as drawer width, drawer bottom width, rail placement and width and etc.

I don't see how you do this on your story stick. I seems like a excellent way to duplicate one dimension but I thought story sticks were to include all the dimensions of the project. In other words the whole story not just one sentence of the story. I'm evidently missing something from your design. Please help me.....

Hello Ed, My friend! It seems the issue here is all in a word. That being "story". Will Shakespeare said "A rose by any other name is still a rose" I think that thought also applies here! Only we're not talking roses, but stories.

You can have a long story with many chapters, or a short story with only one sentence! (Shakespeare's rose story is a good example!) This adjustable stick also tells a short story - is extremely accurate, adjustable and therefore can tell many accurate stories - one at a time.

You are right! adjustable sticks are an excellent way to duplicate one dimension. It can also be used as a set-up tool. In this way, it's even better than the "complete story" stick. (It's hard to use an 4 foot stick (containing marks) to set up for a 8" cut). However, it does not, as you pointed out, present a complete a story, of a project, but it is adjustable and re-usable, to tell many stories.

In my experience the stick you described is best used for structural construction such as doorways, moldings, stairs, porches, etc. and is also used in some lathe turnings. Here it is an excellent tool. But for a fine single measurement that involves absolutely no actual measurement in inches, millimeters or other, the adjustable stick is my chosen way to go.

The adjustable stick works so well - thought I'd pass it along! I didn't think that it's presentation would cause consternation to anyone's paradigm or old teachings.

Let's just think of it as "a different way to skin a cat" and pretty handy at that! It is a tool I would not like to be without!

Gene Howe · Post by **Gene Howe** » Mon Aug 24, 2009 5:03 pm

Great idea! Will make one for larger cases. I made one that uses 1/2X1/8 aluminum bar stock for measuring for drawer bottoms, inset drawer openings and etc. The thin stock allows measurement inside the drawer bottom grooves.
Mine is just a piece of wood that I cut a groove in to house two pieces of the bar stock. Then glued another piece on the bottom to capture the stock. Added a "T" nut and set screw. From a 4' long piece of stock, I got enough different lengths to measure almost any size drawer.
Yours will be a great help for the bigger things, and for squaring, too.
Thanks for posting all the pics.

georgek1 · Post by **georgek1** » Tue Aug 25, 2009 11:13 am

Gene Howe wrote:Great idea! Will make one for larger cases. I made one that uses 1/2X1/8 aluminum bar stock for measuring for drawer bottoms, inset drawer openings and etc. The thin stock allows measurement inside the drawer bottom grooves.
Mine is just a piece of wood that I cut a groove in to house two pieces of the bar stock. Then glued another piece on the bottom to capture the stock. Added a "T" nut and set screw. From a 4' long piece of stock, I got enough different lengths to measure almost any size drawer.
Yours will be a great help for the bigger things, and for squaring, too.
Thanks for posting all the pics.

Gene, great idea... but I am having trouble picturing it. Could you please post a picture or 2. Thanks in advance...

George

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Tue Aug 25, 2009 1:45 pm

Gene Howe wrote:Great idea! Will make one for larger cases. I made one that uses 1/2X1/8 aluminum bar stock for measuring for drawer bottoms, inset drawer openings and etc. The thin stock allows measurement inside the drawer bottom grooves.
Mine is just a piece of wood that I cut a groove in to house two pieces of the bar stock. Then glued another piece on the bottom to capture the stock. Added a "T" nut and set screw..

Gene - The use of aluminum bar stock was a great idea. Yep! There are many ways to make one of these sticks. I just might try something along this line.

Gene Howe · Post by **Gene Howe** » Tue Aug 25, 2009 2:57 pm

georgek1 wrote:Gene, great idea... but I am having trouble picturing it. Could you please post a picture or 2. Thanks in advance...

George

Here's a couple pics of the aluminum bar story stick.
[ATTACH]5755[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]5754[/ATTACH]

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue Aug 25, 2009 4:28 pm

Gene Howe wrote:Here's a couple pics of the aluminum bar story stick.
[ATTACH]5755[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]5754[/ATTACH]

When you make more of these, make the t-nut captive. Counter bore(for clearance) on the side facing the sliding bars b4 glueing. This will eliminate the tendency for tightening to back the t-nut out.

Gene Howe · Post by **Gene Howe** » Tue Aug 25, 2009 4:45 pm

JPG40504 wrote:When you make more of these, make the t-nut captive. Counter bore(for clearance) on the side facing the sliding bars b4 glueing. This will eliminate the tendency for tightening to back the t-nut out.

I thought about doing that but, it was just going to be for a few drawers. That was 8 years ago. The nut (EDIT-BOLT) is just finger tight. I hasn't come apart yet and, I use it at least once a month.

georgek1 · Post by **georgek1** » Thu Aug 27, 2009 7:57 am

JPG, thanks for the tip and pics. Good idea, I am sure I will be building several very soon.

George