1957 Mark V, Changed gilmer and drive belt, length of spindle on Quill

[golf4letterword]

I just completed the belt changes mentioned, also pulled and pressed a new bearing on the Drive Sleeve assembly. After reassembly it seems the main shaft (spinning steel bar, extruding from Quill) has resessed and when the Knob-spindle A2836 is installed there is not quite enough left to mount a saw blade etc. In the removal of the drive sleeve assembly using the quill I tapped lightly on this shaft as to encourage the drive sleeve assembly to move as machine is 50 years old and the drive sleeve assembly was tight and did not want to budge. (I evidently have an upgraded quill with 2 bearings)
Question is how far should shaft protrude once A2836 is installed and how should I proceed to get shaft extended to original position. thanks

[JPG]

I just completed the belt changes mentioned, also pulled and pressed a new bearing on the Drive Sleeve assembly. After reassembly it seems the main shaft (spinning steel bar, extruding from Quill) has resessed and when the Knob-spindle A2836 is installed there is not quite enough left to mount a saw blade etc. In the removal of the drive sleeve assembly using the quill I tapped lightly on this shaft as to encourage the drive sleeve assembly to move as machine is 50 years old and the drive sleeve assembly was tight and did not want to budge. (I evidently have an upgraded quill with 2 bearings)
Question is how far should shaft protrude once A2836 is installed and how should I proceed to get shaft extended to original position. thanks

A picture sure would help here! Both with the spindle knob on and off.

The spindle knob mounts onto the quill shaft and is tightened onto its own tapered flat inside the tapered flat to which arbors are fastened. The inner end of the arbor tapered flat is almost 1/8" beyond the outside surface of the spindle knob. The spindle knob enters the quill barrel almost to the bearing retaining ring. All this should be correctly in place unless the quill has been disassembled.

I am thinking that by tapping the output shaft to drive the main shaft bearing(s) out you probably drove the quill shaft into the quill barrel away from its front retaining ring. If so it needs to go back. I am not sure What limits travel of the quill shaft to the rear. Whatever it is, you may have forced the quill shaft/bearing(s) beyond it. Someone more familiar with the 2 bearing quill please step up and speak!

[SDSSmith]

(I evidently have an upgraded quill with 2 bearings)

For what it's worth, I do not believe that Shopsmith sells a two bearing quill for the Gilmer drive. I believe that Skip Campbell has added second bearings to the single bearing quills found on the Gilmer drive system. Did you have someone modifiy your quill?

[billmayo]

A common problem on single bearing quills when the bearing is replaced. The quill shaft has been moved inside the front bearing when installing the quill shaft and bearing by tapping on the quill shaft to install. Remove the shaft and bearing from the housing (snap ring removed). Reseat the bearing on the shaft. Then using a large deep well socket (OD same or slightly smaller then the bearing OD) or use a large washer/pipe or a bearing tool to install the shaft and bearing into the housing. Do not tap on the quill shaft while doing this installing. Be very careful not to hit the bearing shield or seal. Alway only put pressure on the outter or inner race being fitted, not the ball bearings as it will pit the races and cause early failure.

There were no double bearing Gilmer quills made by Shopsmith. There were some made by Skip Campbell and myself available. I added a second same size bearing behind the original bearing for doing metal milling and molding/routing operations.

[golf4letterword]

Thanks VPG, Rob, Bill Mayo for your replies. I have quill shaft in front of me.
Bearing on left, splines on right. Came out fairly easily. You correctly stated that it is a single bearing one.
I did the check for single or double bearing using allen wrench on one of Drew's instuctionals and my wrench extended in about the distance he said I would hit bearing two. (But it was instead hitting a beveled steel (seal ) I would guess) which may or may not have moved on shaft also. Bearing is not bad but not smooth as silk for sure so will replace as long as I have out. I wanted to pick your brain a little more for when I press new bearing on Monday on positioning of bearing and seal.
On left end of shaft I can see flats for arbor and spindle knob and diameter of shaft has been reduced for about 2 5/16 " to receive bearing. There is a shoulder there where shaft goes to maximum diameter and there is a little aprox. 3/32" area in front (left) of shoulder where shaft is milled smaller than diameter for bearing. do I press bearing to shoulder or line at front of 3/32" area or somewhere else.
On area of shaft that is large diameter, looking from shoulder toward splines there is an area that is almost blackish for a distance of 2 7/8" and then shaft has a polished look to it for a distance of 2 1/2", nice staight line of demarkation between black and polished areas. Then a milled reduction of dia. for the splines area.
The seal is a little over 1/8" thick, with large end on left toward arbors side of shaft and taper (looks like it is made to fit into something like a cap) on right toward spline side of shaft. End of seal/taper/right side is currently sitting approx. 3/16" left of line created by milled reduction for spline dia. area of shaft.
A novice such as myself might think the seal should be moved to the left to line between black and polished. However my taping with hammer (creating orginal problem) appears to have moved bearing or shaft about 3/4" total and distance to move seal to the left to get to line between black and polished is 2 1/8" or so. I appreciate your patience reading this and I am hopeful it makes some sense to you.
Thanks