Replacement Drill Chuck

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Thu Aug 27, 2009 11:20 am

a1gutterman wrote:Is it keyless???

My experience with keyless chucks is that all they are good for is with bits that have flats(3) or to booger up the shafts of round ones!:eek:

I do have one dewalt cordless drill with a decent keyless chuck. I also have a dewalt cordless drill with a keyless chuck that is worthless. Even the 'decent' one will slip under hard load. A properly tightened jacobs chuck does NOT slip unless a lockup conditon occurs(And not always then).

I really really hate bits that have been spun in a chuck so as to scarf the nicely precision ground shaft.

keakap · Post by **keakap** » Thu Aug 27, 2009 3:32 pm

JPG40504 wrote: I really really hate bits that have been spun in a chuck so as to scarf the nicely precision ground shaft.

Well I'll be...

I though the whole purpose of the keyless chuck was to grind off those pesky bit size numbers, especially on the smaller bits.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Thu Aug 27, 2009 5:40 pm

keakap wrote:Well I'll be...

I though the whole purpose of the keyless chuck was to grind off those pesky bit size numbers, especially on the smaller bits.

Sure! That is why you need a micrometer to measure each bit b4 you use it. As I get older, I realize why model makers ALWAYS found the proper size bit by measuring it(they(I) couldn't read those 'pesky little numbers')! unboogered shafts ARE easier to measure though!:rolleyes: They tend to wobble less also.

horologist · Post by **horologist** » Thu Aug 27, 2009 10:02 pm

dicksterp wrote:The Albrecht chuck is probably one of the best you can buy. Not cheap, but worth every penny.

I second this! They are fantastic tools and I have two that I use with metal lathes. The smaller one is a "sensitive feed" chuck that is missing the outer sleeve. When complete this allows you to advance the chuck by grabbing the aluminum disk at the base and pushing it forward. This helps to limit drill breakage.

New they are very expensive but with a little effort you can get used ones reasonably. Even with a #2 Morse taper. To attach it to the quill you could buy one mounted on a 1/2" rod and use the 1/2" router arbor. I have considered doing this with my Shopsmith as my Delta drill press is pretty wobbly.

Troy

[ATTACH]5773[/ATTACH]

a1gutterman · Post by **a1gutterman** » Fri Aug 28, 2009 12:33 am

JPG40504 wrote:My experience with keyless chucks is that all they are good for is with bits that have flats(3) or to booger up the shafts of round ones!:eek:

I do have one dewalt cordless drill with a decent keyless chuck. I also have a dewalt cordless drill with a keyless chuck that is worthless. Even the 'decent' one will slip under hard load. A properly tightened jacobs chuck does NOT slip unless a lockup conditon occurs(And not always then).

I really really hate bits that have been spun in a chuck so as to scarf the nicely precision ground shaft.

My experience with keyless chucks (yes, in DeWalt cordless drills) has, for the most part, been good. I wood keep and use my normal chuck, but I sure wood like a keyless one too. I am knot interested in the work-around solutions, as I believe that they will produce too much run out.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Aug 28, 2009 7:47 am

a1gutterman wrote:My experience with keyless chucks (yes, in DeWalt cordless drills) has, for the most part, been good. I wood keep and use my normal chuck, but I sure wood like a keyless one too. I am knot interested in the work-around solutions, as I believe that they will produce too much run out.

How does the LACK of a key produce less runout? ORRRR How does a key create more runout??? ORRRRRRR Do the best chucks happen to be keyless(and if so, why)?

P.S. The Dewalt chucks seem to be better than chucks on other brands. The 'best' one I have is on a 'heavy duty($$$) model. It tightens, and then further tightens with a different action(like a geared down ratchet action).

a1gutterman · Post by **a1gutterman** » Sat Aug 29, 2009 6:15 pm

JPG40504 wrote:How does the LACK of a key produce less runout? ORRRR How does a key create more runout??? ORRRRRRR Do the best chucks happen to be keyless(and if so, why)?

P.S. The Dewalt chucks seem to be better than chucks on other brands. The 'best' one I have is on a 'heavy duty($$$) model. It tightens, and then further tightens with a different action(like a geared down ratchet action).

My reference to less run-out was directed at a comparison between a keyless chuck that has the correct mount (5/8" plain shaft) and one that requires an adaptor of some kind to allow mounting to the SS. The work-around solutions that allow the use of a keyless chuck on a Mark V requires some kind of adapter, and this (IMHO), will always create more run-out then a chuck mounted without an adapter will. I have knot been able to find a keyless chuck that will mount to the SS without an adapter.

regnar · Post by **regnar** » Sat Aug 29, 2009 10:53 pm

Has anyone pulled apart a keyed chuck that came from Shopsmith? I cant imagine that they would re-invent the wheel so there might be a tapper under that chuck that might fit a keyless. I could be wrong to.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sun Aug 30, 2009 2:19 am

regnar wrote:Has anyone pulled apart a keyed chuck that came from Shopsmith? I cant imagine that they would re-invent the wheel so there might be a tapper under that chuck that might fit a keyless. I could be wrong to.

A 'tapper'???

horologist · Post by **horologist** » Sun Aug 30, 2009 10:21 pm

a1gutterman wrote:My reference to less run-out was directed at a comparison between a keyless chuck that has the correct mount (5/8" plain shaft) and one that requires an adaptor of some kind to allow mounting to the SS. The work-around solutions that allow the use of a keyless chuck on a Mark V requires some kind of adapter, and this (IMHO), will always create more run-out then a chuck mounted without an adapter will. I have knot been able to find a keyless chuck that will mount to the SS without an adapter.

Tim,
This is true to a point. Chucks are made so that they can be fitted to a variety of tapers, etc., the quality of the chuck and the mount will determine how true the assembly is. The Albrecht chuck mounted on a 1/2" rod is designed to be used in a collet and should have very little run out.

The 1/2 router arbor for the Shopsmith is designed to hold router bits with a 1/2" shank. My dad has one on his machine and I have found it to be made to an acceptable degree of precision. The combination would probably have less error than the existing error in the quill bearings.

Having Albrecht or a similar manufacturer make a run of Shopsmith specific chucks would be sufficiently expensive that I doubt any of us would even consider the purchase. It would probably be cheaper to buy a milling machine. A chuck made by a lesser manufacturer would also likely have more error than the above combination.

Just a thought...

Troy