Stripped set screw hole on sanding drum
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Stripped set screw hole on sanding drum
I was going to try my sanding drum for the first time (purchased used), but found that the set screw hole is stripped out. Do I have any options for repair? Tap to a larger size? Tap a new hole on the other side? Suggestions are appreciated. Thanks,
Loren
Loren
Stripped set screw hole on sanding drum
I would drill and tap the other side if you have the drill and tap available. The next larger set screw 3/8" requires a larger allen wrench 3/16" that you have to keep track of.hobbydad wrote:I was going to try my sanding drum for the first time (purchased used), but found that the set screw hole is stripped out. Do I have any options for repair? Tap to a larger size? Tap a new hole on the other side? Suggestions are appreciated. Thanks,
Loren
You can use a Heli-coil but it requires a special drill, tap and insertion tool. Other types of sleeves/inserts still requires drilling and taping and there may not be room on the sanding drum hub for these solutions.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
- RobertTaylor
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yes, you can BUT you need to plan ahead about how you are going to support the shaft and clamp it in place. do not expect to get away with hand-holding it.hobbydad wrote:Can I use the SS to drill the hole?
you can use the SS in drill press or horizontal mode. which mode you use will make a difference in the clamping/support.
if you drill a pilot hole, it will make your life easier. use a pilot drill that is large enough to be stiff and also larger in diameter than the tip of the tap drill.
I don't think I would want to prick-punch the metal that my SS drum sander is made of. (I could be wrong) instead, I would use a small flat file (or even the side edge of a mill smooth file) to put a small flat where you want to drill.
Ivan
Mark V (84) w/ jigsaw, belt sander, strip sander
ER10 awaiting restoration
ER10 awaiting restoration
- JPG
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iclark wrote:. . .
I don't think I would want to prick-punch the metal that my SS drum sander is made of. (I could be wrong) instead, I would use a small flat file (or even the side edge of a mill smooth file) to put a small flat where you want to drill.
Ivan
It all depends on how big a prick you use and how hard you hit it!:D
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so true:DJPG40504 wrote:It all depends on how big a prick you use and how hard you hit it!:D
I was thinking hard enough so that the pilot drill would not walk.
hmm, perhaps I phrased that poorly. let's try again:
I had in mind hitting the punch with sufficient force to make a dimple sufficiently large enough that the tip of the pilot drill would be guided along a radius of the cylinder without walking off to unintended locations.
Ivan
Mark V (84) w/ jigsaw, belt sander, strip sander
ER10 awaiting restoration
ER10 awaiting restoration
- JPG
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[quote="iclark"]so true:D
I was thinking hard enough so that the pilot drill would not walk.
hmm, perhaps I phrased that poorly. let's try again: ]
Providing a 'holder' for the cylinder being drilled into and positioning the dimple under the bit IS important. A very small pilot hole requires only a small dimple. A small bit tends to bend making the wandering more likely(and breaking the bit).
I was thinking hard enough so that the pilot drill would not walk.
hmm, perhaps I phrased that poorly. let's try again: ]
Providing a 'holder' for the cylinder being drilled into and positioning the dimple under the bit IS important. A very small pilot hole requires only a small dimple. A small bit tends to bend making the wandering more likely(and breaking the bit).
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- a1gutterman
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Especially those made in China bits!:rolleyes:JPG40504 wrote:Providing a 'holder' for the cylinder being drilled into and positioning the dimple under the bit IS important. A very small pilot hole requires only a small dimple. A small bit tends to bend making the wandering more likely(and breaking the bit).
Tim
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