Binding Quill

[rkh2]

Catfaber

Welcome to the Forum from the south and middle part of TN (Only 300 plus miles away). Seems like you have most of your questions already answered and probably will be posting pictures with your next posts if needed. The link I am including is a bit more discussion (Post # 1 & 3 of link) on the rubber spacer you were in question about. By the way, that is one nice looking canoe you built. I would venture to say that you are not new to woodworking, just the Shopsmith. I think you will find it to be a very user friendly tool that has endless possibilities. Also curious about your user name?

http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... pacer+tube

[catfaber]

lv2wdwrk--I'm pretty sure I have a gmail address; I will try sometime this weekend.

beeg--thanks for the reference on how to add photos. And it's good to hear that the rubber ring on teh quill is not a problem. I was afraid that in working on one problem I had caused another; I'm glad that's not so.

Yes, the canoe floats :-) That's not really an endorsement of my tight joints or anything; epoxy and fiberglass will waterproof a multitude of sins. She's not for a novice paddler (she's the only canoe I've ever tipped by accident) but she handled 15 mph headwinds and 2 foot waves (whitecaps on some, but only on some) in Quetico and never once felt like she was close to her limits. I like her a lot.

Her name is Patience :-)

JPG40504--thanks for the suggestions about adding pictures/links. And the canoe thread (and linked web pages) is great! There are some good ideas there I want to steal (ahem) I mean incorporate in my shop.

I'm glad you think my 510 is in good shape. I'm impressed by the restorations some people have taken on, but that's not really where my heart lies: I will take good care of my tools (in my opinion) but what I really want is what they can do, so having to work on them a long time before they can do anything is not really what I was hoping for :-) I have a serious hankering to GET STARTED which I am controlling with difficulty.

And thanks for the explaining what the quill "gasket" is--I feel better about it being "loose" now that I know that won't interfere with it doing it's job.

joedw00: thanks for the welcome and the compliment :-) The way to a boatbuilder's heart is to say nice things about her boats. They're beautiful, they're intelligent, talented, loyal, thrifty brave clean and reverent--wait, that was something else...

rkh2--hey! You're practically next door! Howdy, neighbor!

Thanks for the link about the rubber spacer on the way tube. Good to know it's supposed to be there :-) And thanks for the nice words about my canoe.

Don't get the wrong idea about me: that canoe is probably 95% or more of all the woodworking I've ever done. I learned a lot from it, and from the people who helped me with it. There's a shop teacher in Maryville who has built two boats a year for 20 years with his shop classes: he was a big help--both because he knew how to solve most problems that came up and because he has a very laid back, reassuring attitude. "It's wood; you can fix it," he says when something goes wrong. And usually he knows how. He had the tablesaw and bits to shape the strips and recruited two husky high school students to help feed the 16 foot boards through the table saw to produce 1/4 inch strips, and then twice each through the router to shape the edges to mate with each other. He let me help when his class fiberglassed the outside of their boat (conveniently a week ahead of mine) so that when I did the fiberglass on mine, it wasn't my first time. He let me help again when they fiberglassed the inside. (Which has a different set of problems)

And I had a neighbor at the time who made fine furniture. I asked for his advice on the mortise and tenons for the seat, and he was so happy to help I almost didn't get to work on the seat at all. I'm grateful for his help, really I am, but basically he *did* the mortises and tenons, which was not what I had in mind when I asked for advice. I practically had to yank it out of his hands to get to drill the holes for the cane myself. :-)

I will be making a workbench soon. For the last couple of years my bench has been the strongback from the canoe form, laid over a couple of sawhorses I made--but when I start making another canoe, that "bench" goes byebye first thing, and I don't have so much as a card table in the garage to lay my tools on otherwise. And I *will* do the mortises and tenons for this bench, so I know how. I mean, the principle looks pretty straightforward but I bet the devil is in the details.

Anyway, don't get the wrong idea about my woodworking skills: I'm pretty sure I haven't done woodworking as you guys practice it. I mean, until I read chapter 3 of Power Tool Woodworking For Everyone this morning I had no IDEA what people could do with a table saw. I mean, compound miters? Grooves, dadoes, rabbets? Splines and keys? Finger joints? That is X-treme tablesawing. Full-contact woodworking. I've never done anything like that.

[JPG]

In Case Y'all Are Wondering!:D

Watch out for Ron! He will try to get you turning! Also he works for Home Depot!:eek:

Patience! An apt name for a tippable(sp?) water craft! Or were you referring to the build process?

[catfaber]

In Case Y'all Are Wondering!:D

Watch out for Ron! He will try to get you turning! Also he works for Home Depot!:eek:

Patience! An apt name for a tippable(sp?) water craft! Or were you referring to the build process?

:-) I named her when I was about half-way through building her. My brother suggested I should build a couple more and call them "Persistence" and "Passion."

We'll see.

[mikelst]

Mikelst -- I'm just going through the "set-up" portion of the manual in order, basically. I haven't gotten to anything about lubricating the sheaves or cleaning out the motor pan yet, or checking the speed control quadrant assembly. If the manual doesn't specify them as part of set-up, I will check into them when set-up is done. Does the manual say how to do these things or should I look on the website somewhere?

This is not part of the setup, but is part of the regular maintenance (except blowing out the motor pan). Since you don't 'know' the maintenance history of the tool (although it looks great) it is a good idea to do all periodic maintenance so you know where your starting from. At least that is my suggestion.

[JPG]

Of particular importance is the lubrication of the sheaves(motor/floating and the idler/control). The recommended lubrication period is every 10 operating hours. The motor sheave is somewhat ornery to do but VERY important(many become locked). The control sheave is easier(relatively) and Bill Mayo recommends more than the ss recommendation(he suggests up to 10 drops). The quadrant gear(porkchop) is also a good thing to do at the same time. "# 10 machine/turbine/3 in one" and a spout bottle makes it much easier.

[catfaber]

This is not part of the setup, but is part of the regular maintenance (except blowing out the motor pan). Since you don't 'know' the maintenance history of the tool (although it looks great) it is a good idea to do all periodic maintenance so you know where your starting from. At least that is my suggestion.

That sounds like a good, prudent plan. I'll do it, by jing! It may take me a few days, however, as I just cut the middle out of my canoe-lifter to make it narrower so it would fit in the shop better. Which it will, when I'm done, but the pieces, not so much.

Also I need to rip out a shelf, install more lighting (have to recruit a professional for that, I think) and bolt vertical 2 x 4s to my cinderblock walls. The plan is that then I can drill into the 2 x 4s and install shelves and brackets wherever I like, and move them if I change my mind. Installing the 2 x 4s however involves masonry bits and special drills and lead anchors that expand to fill the holes in the cinderblock when one screws a screw into them. These are all new things, which take longer, because I am timid and need to pace and mutter a lot before I actually drill into my house.

And before I do any of <i>that,</i> I really need to finish painting the shelves I made for the Rural Clinic and get them out of my shop. They're for a good cause and all, but they take a lot of room.

And accomplishing this is not helped by the fact that I read about the difficulties people are having matching infeed / outfeed tables to the shopsmith and I got inspired to try to design something to fill the bill. Spent hours making drawings today--some in five colors to help keep the parts straight. I think I have a good idea for how to support the top but the extendable legs are still too clunky: I just got an idea for how to make them better, but it might be beyond my newbie skills.

I think it might be possible to make it on a Shopsmith, even. Mostly, anyway: I'm going to use a jigsaw rather than crosscut an 8 foot board :-)

Does 8 feet by 3 feet sound like a good length/width for an infeed / outfeed table? Or at least the frame to clamp a table top to?

Oh, and did I mention my books from Amazon on workbenches came today?

[catfaber]

Of particular importance is the lubrication of the sheaves(motor/floating and the idler/control). The recommended lubrication period is every 10 operating hours. The motor sheave is somewhat ornery to do but VERY important(many become locked). The control sheave is easier(relatively) and Bill Mayo recommends more than the ss recommendation(he suggests up to 10 drops). The quadrant gear(porkchop) is also a good thing to do at the same time. "# 10 machine/turbine/3 in one" and a spout bottle makes it much easier.

Right. I remember reading that lubricating the sheaves was important. I will do it after I get the shopsmith set up and aligned but before I seriously start working on it. Even on the extendable legs. Promise.

Mind you, I may come whining back for more advice on how :-)

[JPG]

Right. I remember reading that lubricating the sheaves was important. I will do it after I get the shopsmith set up and aligned but before I seriously start working on it. Even on the extendable legs. Promise.

Mind you, I may come whining back for more advice on how :-)

I have NOT observed any 'whining'! Actually considering you only became aware of a shopsmiths existence less than two weeks ago and how far you have come, I expect to be asking YOU for help in about 2 months!:D

[keakap]

I think it might be possible to make it on a Shopsmith, even. Mostly, anyway: I'm going to use a jigsaw rather than crosscut an 8 foot board :-)

Actually, the Mark V has the capability built in of handling an 8 foot or 18 foot board crosscut.
Make the cut, a hair long, with a hand saw or any other saw, then take the board to the SS and make the end perfectly square and true with the disc sander, via quill feed.