keakap wrote:Actually, the Mark V has the capability built in of handling an 8 foot or 18 foot board crosscut.
Make the cut, a hair long, with a hand saw or any other saw, then take the board to the SS and make the end perfectly square and true with the disc sander, via quill feed.
:-) Oh, I see: a cross-sand. Very nice. Boy am I looking forward to having my Shopsmith all aligned and everything!
(I got about 1/3 of the way through the aligning today. The rest tomorrow, maybe!)
Catfaber I'll tell ya a secrete that nobody else here will. When ya find the hole to oil the fan sheave. Mark the location on the sheave with a red marker, so it's easier to find next time.
Oh and ANYTIME you have your hand inside the SS, MAKE SURE it's unplugged. The shock isn't to bad, but the jagged GASH left in your hand from pulling it out of the hole is BAD.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop. .
.
Bob
beeg wrote:Catfaber I'll tell ya a secrete that nobody else here will. When ya find the hole to oil the fan sheve. Mark the location on the sheave with a red marker, so it's easier to find next time.
Oh and ANYTIME you have your hand inside the SS, MAKE SURE it's unplugged. The shock isn't to bad, but the gagged GASH left in your hand from pulling it out of the hole is BAD.
How come ya "never told any of US" the red mark SECRET? :>(
I can relate to the gash, but what is a GAGGED gash?
I do not know if this is 'up your alley', but it WOULD be easier(and more educational) to drop the motor/pan and REALLY have access to the inside of the headstock. It IS easier to perform the lubrication/cleaning pinion/rack(quill) quadrant gear teeth when not having to both look through that hole and have your arm in it! If you have the medallion version that is retained with a flat spring, the tabs sticking into the opening that prevent it from rotating can/will scratch the back of your hands when removing them even without the benefit of an electrical shock!:D
I recommend disconnecting the motor/linecord wires from the switch so that the motor/housing can be COMPLETELY removed.(BTW it is easier to find that floating sheave hole with it sitting on the bench). B4 putting it back together, put a connector(s) in the wires going to the switch. This allows not having to access the switch in the future.
The most difficult part of this IS removing the drive belt(brute force).
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
JPG40504 wrote:How come ya "never told any of US" the red mark SECRET? :>(
I recommend disconnecting the motor/linecord wires from the switch so that the motor/housing can be COMPLETELY removed.(BTW it is easier to find that floating sheave hole with it sitting on the bench). B4 putting it back together, put a connector(s) in the wires going to the switch. This allows not having to access the switch in the future.
When the switch on my 510 failed some time ago I replaced it with a NVR (No Volt Release) switch. This means that if the power goes down for any reason while I am working the machine will not start up automatically when I restore the power. Two reasons for fitting this:
1 It was easier and quicker to buy the NVR locally than order from SS and wait for delivery
2 I find that the red OFF switch is easier to hit in emergency than the SS one.
A negative result is that I don't have the removable red switch handle to remove when not using the machine, but I don't have any young children any more wandering into my workshop.
I drilled a 1/2" hole into the casing to thread the wires through and fixed the switch with self-tapping screws. The position of the switch makes it much easier to access it. I plugged the hole wher the existing switch was with a piece of wood, screwing it into another piece inside the casing.
Now I would REALLY LIKE a switch like that. Thanks for the info.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop. .
.
Bob
I like the idea of the NVR switch feature. I've tripped a breaker a number of times and when coming back from around on the side of house, where the main breaker panel is at, the Mark V is running. This could be a serious accident in the making.
Of course, some simple brain work would do the trick too.
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
rayjack wrote:When the switch on my 510 failed some time ago I replaced it with a NVR (No Volt Release) switch. This means that if the power goes down for any reason while I am working the machine will not start up automatically when I restore the power. Two reasons for fitting this:
1 It was easier and quicker to buy the NVR locally than order from SS and wait for delivery
2 I find that the red OFF switch is easier to hit in emergency than the SS one.
A negative result is that I don't have the removable red switch handle to remove when not using the machine, but I don't have any young children any more wandering into my workshop.
I drilled a 1/2" hole into the casing to thread the wires through and fixed the switch with self-tapping screws. The position of the switch makes it much easier to access it. I plugged the hole wher the existing switch was with a piece of wood, screwing it into another piece inside the casing.
Great Idea! Where does one get them?
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
beeg wrote:Catfaber I'll tell ya a secrete that nobody else here will. When ya find the hole to oil the fan sheave. Mark the location on the sheave with a red marker, so it's easier to find next time.
Oh and ANYTIME you have your hand inside the SS, MAKE SURE it's unplugged. The shock isn't to bad, but the jagged GASH left in your hand from pulling it out of the hole is BAD.
Eeep! I always unplug any machine I'm going to work on. But I will make doubly sure to unplug the Shopsmith before I get into the housing.
Thanks for telling me your secret--I will make sure to have a red marker on hand and mark the sheave.
rayjack wrote:I drilled a 1/2" hole into the casing to thread the wires through and fixed the switch with self-tapping screws. The position of the switch makes it much easier to access it. I plugged the hole wher the existing switch was with a piece of wood, screwing it into another piece inside the casing.
I would believe the hole and screw holes in the belt housing looks to be a better place for the switch and looks like it was there at one time. If so, why did you move it to the motor pan which is lower on the headstock and looks harder to find. Did you look at any of the red paddle to turn off type switches which you can hit with your knee or hand in case of quick turn-off?
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
JPG40504 wrote:
I can elate to the gash, but what is a GAGGED gash?
I'm betting it's a "jagged" gash. Which is even more painful than a regular gash.
JPG40504 wrote:
I do not know if this is 'up your alley', but it WOULD be easier(and more educational) to drop the motor/pan and REALLY have access to the inside of the headstock. It IS easier to perform the lubrication/cleaning pinion/rack(quill) quadrant gear teeth when not having to both look through that hole and have your arm in it! If you have the medallion version that is retained with a flat spring, the tabs sticking into the opening that prevent it from rotating can/will scratch the back of your hands when removing them even without the benefit of an electrical shock!:D
I think I can probably remove the motor pan--I'll have to check that part of the manual. Easier is better, even if it takes a little longer, so I will try.
JPG40504 wrote:I recommend disconnecting the motor/linecord wires from the switch so that the motor/housing can be COMPLETELY removed.(BTW it is easier to find that floating sheave hole with it sitting on the bench). B4 putting it back together, put a connector(s) in the wires going to the switch. This allows not having to access the switch in the future.
The most difficult part of this IS removing the drive belt(brute force).
Um, I'm more of a brute finesse kind of person. I will have to think on this.
