Restoration Progress On My 1952 ER10

mickyd · Post by **mickyd** » Thu Sep 10, 2009 1:30 am

FYI - With the thread getting so long and covering so many topics, it was getting difficult to locate specific items / topics. Decided to put a hyperlinked index back at post #1 . Works out pretty well! Check it out.

Also added an index to my Greenie restoration thread.

mickyd · Post by **mickyd** » Thu Sep 10, 2009 6:30 pm

Here's my recreated CUSTOM brass motor nameplate for the ER10. I decided to try a water slide decal process instead of the acid etch process used for recreating the main ShopSmith nameplate, reason being, I didn't think the tiny lettering above the information blocks stood a chance at making it though the acid bath without getting etched away. Water slide decals are the same we used as kids when making models.

Original nameplate
Water Slide Decal
.032" Brass stock trimmed to size
Finished part

[ATTACH]5902[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]5901[/ATTACH]
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I bought a 5-pack of the clear inkjet water slide decal stock from Papilio.com. (~$15.00 with shipping) I was going to buy from Testor’s but it took them 2 days to answer an email I sent asking them a question. After 1 day, I located the other source. Couldn't wait! Too bad.....I spent a lot of hard earned paper route money with Testor as a kid.

Process was pretty straight forward.
1.Prepare your artwork. Blank GE motor artwork below.
2.Prepare your metal sheet stock. I used .032” thick brass.
---a.Sand the front surface with 1500 grit sandpaper on a mirror or flat surface to make it shine. Double sided tape works well here.
---b.Coat the back surface with 3 or 4 light coats of clear lacquer for protection and allow to dry for 8 hours.
3.Print your artwork to the correct scale onto the waterslide decal paper and let dry for a couple hours.
4.Coat the inkjet image with "fixative" (similar to a clear lacquer) to protect the image when you submerge it in water then let dry for 8-hours.
5.So that the decal slides easily on the nameplate once initially applied, spread a very light coating of “decal mounting fluid” on the nameplate surface. This allows you to make fine adjustments sliding the decal into position without it stretching or tearing.
6.Put decal paper in warm water to loosen the decal.
7.Apply decal to the nameplate.
8.Squeegee out all air bubbles, water, and the decal mounting fluid with your finger OR preferable, a small curved plastic squeegee, similar to the one shown toward the bottom of this page.
9.Sit back and watch your masterpiece dry for about 2 hours while enjoying a tall glass or two of your favorite beverage.
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GE Motor Artwork below
(right click, save picture as)
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[ATTACH]5900[/ATTACH]

tom_k/mo · Post by **tom_k/mo** » Thu Sep 10, 2009 7:00 pm

Mike, that turned out really nice. Great work.

mickyd · Post by **mickyd** » Fri Sep 11, 2009 1:34 pm

I'm debating what to do or what knot to do with the open nots on my bench boards. There are three of them visible on what will be the top surface. They all look similar to this:
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[ATTACH]5909[/ATTACH]
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My plans are to use a tung oil / spar urethane finish mix recommended by Nick over at his Workshop Companion website. Color is natural. For those of you that aren't a member of his forum but wood like the recipe for the finish, here is his posting:

My favorite finish for shop furniture is a homemade recipe that lathe-turning-guru Rudy Olsolnik turned me onto years ago. He said take a cup of tung oil finish and mix it with two tablespoons of spar varnish. The tung oil contributes flexible alkyd resins, the spar varnish hard phenols. What you get is a durable finish that penetrates the wood for a good bond and easily moves with the wood as it expands and contracts. These days, I substitute Spar Urethane for spar varnish, but the principle remains the same. I've applied this stuff to shop furniture, jigs, fixtures, and airplanes with good results. I have a drill press table that I've used day in and day out for 15 years and the finish is barely worn.

With all good wishes,
Nick

So, what wood you say you would gurus? Wood you fill the nots or knot fill the nots? If yes, with what?

Len · Post by **Len** » Fri Sep 11, 2009 1:41 pm

Aesthetically, I would fill it. It's not symmetrical. It looks "wonky" and after all that you've done I would find some wood filler. I would even consider another board if the other side of this one looks as "funny". I know staining filler material is important. I can be no help there, so all I can wish is the best of luck.
=

beeg · Post by **beeg** » Fri Sep 11, 2009 2:23 pm

Leave em and use as is.

ddresser · Post by **ddresser** » Fri Sep 11, 2009 2:51 pm

Mike,

I'd fill them with epoxy, but not sure if that is compatible with the finish you want to use.

Duane

tom_k/mo · Post by **tom_k/mo** » Fri Sep 11, 2009 3:27 pm

Personally, I'd leave it as is. The boards are not part of finished cabinetry, and there's nothing in what's shown on the photo that creates a structural defect. It's kind of like the voids and inclusions you find in burl that you turn for a pen. It's character.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Fri Sep 11, 2009 3:34 pm

I would leave them as is unless it appears that they might break up and fall out. If that was to happen, I would try to epoxy they for structural reasons. As for appearance, this is a work bench, right.

Len · Post by **Len** » Fri Sep 11, 2009 6:58 pm

Can't agree, Dusty. It is a work bench that has taken off and become a work of art.

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Restoration Progress On My 1952 ER10

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Recreated motor nameplate - Waterslide decal process