billmayo wrote:Excellant idea. I took some 2X4s and built a frame to set on the lower cabinets or floor to support the upper cabinets. I used cedar shingles as wedges between this frame and the cabinets to fully support the cabinets. I used this same set-up to install the new cabinets. I used a 1" hole saw (what I had available) offset to saw all the way through the cabinet for each screw that I could not get out. I left a couple of the screws that would back out to hold the cabinet until I sawed around all the screws with the stripped heads. Once the cabinet is removed from the wall, I used a chisel to split the 1" plug and used vise-grip pliers to remove the stripped screws.
I had no luck using any kind of screw extractor. They would only grind some metal off the screw head. Chiseling around the screw and trying to use vise grips only chewed up the screw head. The hole saw was quick and worked really well. I did not even plug or cover up the cabinet holes I made using the hole saw. I drilled new screw holes.
I knew you were a smart fella, Bill!
Tim
Buying US made products will help keep YOUR job or retirement funds safer.
Here is how I did it. I took a cats paw ( a tool that has a funny head on one end and fan like chisel on the other) I was able to shove it between the back and the 1x3 that is used to hold the cabinets up. Once I got enough room I slide in my recipocation saw and cut the screws. Actually my son in law came up with the idea and we were done in about 30 minutes. (cut the screws, the rest of project took the rest of the day). We tore out all the cabinets then tore out all the dry wall and insulation of the drop ceiling. Loaded it into my truck and hauled the whole mess to the dump. I now have a garage full of new cabinets that will be installed when the contractor raises a support beam and re drywalls.
I'm not sure if I going to install the cabinets or if I going to let the contractor.
I got another question now. On the sink cabinet I have a plumbing nightmare. Two drains, hot and cold, supply to dishwasher, return from dishwasher. The wall is totally dry walled.
I know the normal is to cut holes for each pipe and all but since the lines have the fittings (valves) I was wondering if I could simply cut a 12x12 square out and slide the cabinet over it all. Like I said I could cut each hole but like for the 3/4 water lines with shut off valves I would have to cat about a 2 inch hole. Then the waste lines have a pvc fitting so I would have to cut about 1/2 inch bigger. The one supple line has a t with a 5 inch drop for a dishwasher. I shut off the water and sweat the fittings off and then resolder but it seems like a lot of work since the wall behind is finished and 12x12 hole isn't all that big.
What say you guys???
12" by 12"? That is a small 'hole'. Methinks this is a no-brainer!
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
I think that, ideally, you want to seal the cabinet so that no vermin can get in or out when you are done. I would think that if the drywall openings are sealed against all the pipes, then you would be okay (maybe better) to cut the single larger hole in the back of the cabinet as long as you seal that hole to the dry wall.
also, if you are doing that, you might want to consider whether drywall is good enough for that section or if you need a section of the other stuff (concrete board??) that they use instead of drywall in the modern bathrooms.
it seems to me that the big question is: what does code require that you do? if you have a building permit for this work, then the inspector might care whether you meet code. if there is no permit, then if/when you want to sell the house. you may have to bring it up to code before closing.
note that I am talking local building code and not common sense or best engineering design practice here.
Ivan
ps: this is one time that you _really_ want to avoid "Made in China" for the drywall based on all the recent recurrent problems. we are going through another round of news stories about the Chinese drywall here. it makes me wonder if it is a sweeps period.
Mark V (84) w/ jigsaw, belt sander, strip sander
ER10 awaiting restoration
Here is how I did it. I took a cats paw ( a tool that has a funny head on one end and fan like chisel on the other) I was able to shove it between the back and the 1x3 that is used to hold the cabinets up. Once I got enough room I slide in my recipocation saw and cut the screws. Actually my son in law came up with the idea and we were done in about 30 minutes. (cut the screws, the rest of project took the rest of the day). We tore out all the cabinets then tore out all the dry wall and insulation of the drop ceiling. Loaded it into my truck and hauled the whole mess to the dump. I now have a garage full of new cabinets that will be installed when the contractor raises a support beam and re drywalls.
I'm not sure if I going to install the cabinets or if I going to let the contractor.
I got another question now. On the sink cabinet I have a plumbing nightmare. Two drains, hot and cold, supply to dishwasher, return from dishwasher. The wall is totally dry walled.
I know the normal is to cut holes for each pipe and all but since the lines have the fittings (valves) I was wondering if I could simply cut a 12x12 square out and slide the cabinet over it all. Like I said I could cut each hole but like for the 3/4 water lines with shut off valves I would have to cat about a 2 inch hole. Then the waste lines have a pvc fitting so I would have to cut about 1/2 inch bigger. The one supple line has a t with a 5 inch drop for a dishwasher. I shut off the water and sweat the fittings off and then resolder but it seems like a lot of work since the wall behind is finished and 12x12 hole isn't all that big.
What say you guys???
I don't like to pay anyone to do what I know I can do myself.
So if I were in your shoes, I'd have to get honest with self and decide just what I can do and what is contracted out.
There are some things that I used to be able to do well that I should probably get help doing now. That is the hard part for me; acknowledging that I am no longer as physically capable as I once was.
As for pipes coming through, I'd make the holes as small in number and size as could be done. If that means replumbing, so be it. Now, that attitude is somewhat biased because I can do all the pipe fitting myself.
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
I may be wrong, but I don't think building codes cover cabinets. At the most, they might cover how cabinets are mounted (i.e., for safety).
But this is not a plumbing issue, so long as you don't actually do anything other than put a big wooden box over the existing plumbing. So I don't think you will get into building code issues. Check with your code officer, but I doubt it.
You may want to follow up with a pretty 2-piece panel (maybe hardboard?) to cover the hole.
I thought of the pretty two piece panel but you know the more I think about it I don't really see a need. The pipes come through the dry wall and are perfectly sealed. The hole will be such that no one will see it unless they open that cabinet and get down move everything my wife usually keeps under the sink and looks for it.
To do it right I would have to sweat the hardware off the pipes, remove the t with five inch drop for the dishwasher and cut the holes exactly right then try to sweat the fittings all back on without setting the place on fire.
I hate plumbing. I'm sure plumbers use some sort of magic to fit pipes that look good, don't leak and are problem free. When I plumb it either looks bad, leaks or causes some sort of problem down the street.
Right now the 12x12 (just a guess it might even be smaller) is looking better than 2 3"+ holes for the drain, 2 3/4" holes for the supply, 1 1" hole for the electric to the garbage disposal, 1 2" hole for the dishwasher return and 3/4" inch hole for the dishwasher supply.
And I would have to get everyone of those holes perfect or enlarge them so everything would slide on.
Ed, Maybe I missed it. How did all the plumbing and electric get through the cabinet you took out? I have seen some expensive cabinets that have some rather large holes for plumbing, etc.
Makes it easier for plumbers & installers. Good luck.
In the state of WA, there is no code effecting the installation of cabinets. That is to say, no inspection is ever required for cabinet installation. Many kitchen sink cabinets do KNOT have a back panel. If your kitchen sink unit does, it may be to help with the stability of the cabinet. The cabinets that do knot have a back panel usually have wood gussets in the corners or a piece of plywood 3 or 4 inches wide across the top of the back. I have installed many cabinets and I do knot see a need to have a back panel in the sink unit. If the panel IS there for cabinet stability, cutting a hole of ANY size will KNOT hurt that stability as long as you leave a few inches all the way around the edges. You have already stated that the sheetrock wall is "sealed" around the plumbing; that is all you need!
Tim
Buying US made products will help keep YOUR job or retirement funds safer.
lv2wdwrk wrote:Ed, Maybe I missed it. How did all the plumbing and electric get through the cabinet you took out? I have seen some expensive cabinets that have some rather large holes for plumbing, etc.
Makes it easier for plumbers & installers. Good luck.
That cabinet was installed before the fittings were in place. I had to tear it off the back of the cabinet and tomorrow I will use a sabre saw (jig saw to some) to cut it off. Funny thing was even it was cut big around one drain line were I used spackling compound to seal it before I realized the pipes were sealed where they came through the dry wall.
If I decide to cut individual holes I will use the panel I will take off to place the holes in relation to each other.
But again the more I think about it I will probably just cut one hole big enough to get everything through.
