Alignment of worktable with powerhead

[dusty]

I have watched the critical alignment video where Nick aligns the miter slot on the worktable using a depth guage to a marked tooth on a saw blade. Doing this on a saw blade with carbide tips is tricky working down to 1/1000 to 2/1000. I seems to me it would be easier and potentially more accurate to do the same alignment process using a mark on the sanding disk. Any thoughts and experiences??

Yes, doing it on the carbide is tricky but I think there might be a way around that problem. It is rather easy, get rid of the carbide.

You can see what I mean in these shots.

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I have given thought to getting rid of some old saw blades but I am now glade I did not. This reaffirms my life long belief that nothing is junk. If you hang onto it long enough it will prove useful.

This approach, keakap, does not get rid of the sanding disk but it uses it differently and I also am taking measurements at the edge of a large circle thgan before.

The table, BTW, is sitting on the trunnions with only one bolt (outfeed/left) tightened and it is just a bit more than finger tight.

[dusty]

After reviewing the previous post, I suppose it is obvious what I was doing in these next three or four images.

Study the first one. The tubes are in the rails but they are secured only in to the extension table. The threaded rod is also secured to the extension table.

The last two images show the same threaded rod (still firmly attached to the extension table).

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The last shot you've seen before (previous post).

The plywood blade that I used here is nearly flat. It deviates only about .003" as I rotate the arbor (using the sanding disk to turn it) and allowing the dial gauge to ride on the body of the blade. I've seen reference to some alignment plates that are perfectly flat to be used for this purpose. I am not certain that I see them to be any better than this.

The alignment is right on now. Break the setup down and put it back as a table saw and we all know it won't be +- .001" anymore but it will be properly aligned blade to miter track. Can you do this WITHOUT the threaded rod and the the dial indicator? Yes, you absolutely can - be my guest. Knock yourself out!

The main table was moved back and forth, to do the alignment, using the knurled knobs on the threaded rod. Doing it this way, it was very easy to zero down to .001" difference between infeed side and outfeed side. The measurements, as always, are taken at the "same spot" on the blade.

[dusty]

He! He! I really don't know if I should believe that statement at face value. The "don't concern myself" is ????:D

Aw! - Just kidding!

This jibe is brought to you from Jackson, WY

Actually, you are correct. I still find myself measuring things and trying to cut to far greater precision than needed. To say nothing of the fact that I can't cut to that same level of accuracy. Hell, I can't see that well. Oh, I see a lot better that I did before my cataract surgery but I still don't use my rules with 1/64" markings.