Okay take the word "straight" out of the question. Now can I get a STRAIGHT answer??navycop wrote:This brings me to a good question. I have a 4' level. If I was to attach the floating table all the way (or as close as possible) to the end of the 5' tubes. How can I lay the level to get an accurate read? Would a straight 2x4 work?
Main Table Alignment
Moderator: admin
Mark V 520, Ryobi 12" mitersaw, Delta 10" tablesaw, DC 3300.
Mike
Mike
straight answer
if one end of the 5' connecting tube is fully inserted in the extension table and the other end is fully inserted in the floating table (so you put the support legs on before the floating table and the floating table is cantilevered), then the gap between the extension table and the floating table is 3' 9" since the 520 rails are 7.5" each (I could find the rail length on the SS site but not the table size).navycop wrote:Okay take the word "straight" out of the question. Now can I get a STRAIGHT answer??
since 3' 9" < 4' then anything else that I add here has the risk of "sounding" wrong.
I just do not understand the problem. what am I missing?
Ivan
Mark V (84) w/ jigsaw, belt sander, strip sander
ER10 awaiting restoration
ER10 awaiting restoration
- dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21530
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
navycop wrote:This brings me to a good question. I have a 4' level. If I was to attach the floating table all the way (or as close as possible) to the end of the 5' tubes. How can I lay the level to get an accurate read? Would a straight 2x4 work?
I don't believe you can do what is required here by using a 4' level and the 5' tubes.
I work the main table first (always) and then I work the right hand extension table and a floating table.
The first thing I do, after the main table is complete, is slide the carriage to the right so that the right edge of the main table is very close to the left edge of the right hand extension table.
With a level laying across the main table and the right hand extension table I check for level (both infeed and outfeed edges).
If(when) they are level, I then slide the carriage far enough to the left to insert a floating table and I check it for level (infeed and outfeed).
Now to the left end.
Install the left extension table and slide the headstock all the way to the left. Move the carriage (and main table) as far as it will go left.
There is an unavoidable gap between the right edge of the left extension table and the left edge of the main table.
Using the 4' level (laying on the main table) raise the extension table until the table just kisses the level. Secure the extension table at this position and check for level across the gap between the extension table and main table. Repeat this process for the outfeed side.
Do the same with the left hand floating table as was done previously for the right side.
At any point throughout this procedure, if something is found to be out of level or out of alignment, it is necessary to stop and fix that before proceeding.
If I am working on an unknown table set or on one that I know has been a serious alignment issue, I loosen ALL the screws that secure the rail to the EXTENSION/FLOATING tables. I also loosen the studs that secure the EXTENSION TABLE BASE to the extension table.
Then I level and secure these items as I mover through the previous outlined steps.
Remember to secure all locks during the alignment process. It is amazing how much the carriage moves when you secure the carriage lock OR the headstock when you secure that lock.
I hope this helps. If I rambled so much that it is not understandable - ask questions.
I have pictures.
- Attachments
-
- P9290026.JPG (154.42 KiB) Viewed 3200 times
-
- P9290019.JPG (147.99 KiB) Viewed 3197 times
-
- P9290022.JPG (139.69 KiB) Viewed 3198 times
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.