I'm in the market for my first router. What are the must have features I should look for if I am interested in a long term investment? (i.e. motor, adjustment features, etc.) Research shows specs / features vary widely. If asked what I will specifically use it for, I don't know but I DO know that I don't want to buy one and realize any major limitation.
This post by heathicus showing under table mounting on a ER10 seemed like it may be a consideration but wouldn't be a must.
What are must have router features?
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mickyd
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What are must have router features?
Mike
Sunny San Diego
Sunny San Diego
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curiousgeorge
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Mike,
I suggest, for your first router, getting a "kit" with fixed and plunge base. That way you have the plunge base for hand routing and/or you can use the fixed base for table mounting. Sears has an excellent 2hp model that would be just what you need. If it were to be used for mounting in a table and with large bits, such as panel raisers, I would suggest a 3hp, but that is really too much and too hard to handle for most hand routing jobs. Be careful! Routers are habit forming once you get into them. I now have five (5) different routers and counting. You might want to go to the Router Forums and do some browsing or ask questions. Before you buy I suggest going somewhere you can pick up and handle the routers. Be sure you can reach all the switches and controls easily and does the mechanism's operate smoothly. There is nothing worse than having a tool that just doesn't feel right in your hands. I'm sure Ed Reible will chime in here, since he is a router expert.
I suggest, for your first router, getting a "kit" with fixed and plunge base. That way you have the plunge base for hand routing and/or you can use the fixed base for table mounting. Sears has an excellent 2hp model that would be just what you need. If it were to be used for mounting in a table and with large bits, such as panel raisers, I would suggest a 3hp, but that is really too much and too hard to handle for most hand routing jobs. Be careful! Routers are habit forming once you get into them. I now have five (5) different routers and counting. You might want to go to the Router Forums and do some browsing or ask questions. Before you buy I suggest going somewhere you can pick up and handle the routers. Be sure you can reach all the switches and controls easily and does the mechanism's operate smoothly. There is nothing worse than having a tool that just doesn't feel right in your hands. I'm sure Ed Reible will chime in here, since he is a router expert.
George
Ft. Worth, TX.
Go TCU Froggies
Ft. Worth, TX.
Go TCU Froggies
What to look for in a router...
Variable speed, if you are going to be using large bits (like for panel doors).
I have the Sears that George suggested, and it has been pretty good. I also have a couple DeWalts (DW621, DW610) and both of those are great.
Riot Nrrd
I have the Sears that George suggested, and it has been pretty good. I also have a couple DeWalts (DW621, DW610) and both of those are great.
Riot Nrrd
What to look for in a first router
Like curiousgeorge, I suggest a kit with both fixed and plunge bases. Also you should get both a 1/4" and a 1/2" collet with the set. Porter Cable makes pretty good routers and bases that will fit standard guide bushings that you might get soon. Template Guide bushings are needed for multiple applications using guides and jigs, eg. butterfly patches and dovetails. You will also need a centering guide for these uses. Some guide bushing sets come with these centering cones.
HP? Don't know for sure, but something in the medium range of what's available.
As I understand, routers with round motor cases seem to be more adaptable for multiple uses.
HP? Don't know for sure, but something in the medium range of what's available.
As I understand, routers with round motor cases seem to be more adaptable for multiple uses.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Just like everything else, everyone has their own favorite. I use the Porter Cable 890 series kit, but as curiousgeorge suggested, go and handle the router to see how it feels in your hands. There are numerous reviews out there so do some reading.
Having variable speed control, about 2 - 2 1/4 hp should suffice in most instances, and dual bases are very handy for a first set. Having both 1/4 and 1/2 inch collets are usefull but I would suggest getting primarily 1/2 inch carbide bits as the are more stable.
There are many sites that have done reviews. Some such sites are:
http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking ... cessories/
http://www.woodmagazine.com/dgroups/ind ... 814f521765
http://www.finewoodworking.com/ToolGuid ... x?id=24090
(you will need to take a trial membership if you don't already subscribe to be able to read the article)
Take your time and read, but don't forget to feel. Good luck in your search.
Having variable speed control, about 2 - 2 1/4 hp should suffice in most instances, and dual bases are very handy for a first set. Having both 1/4 and 1/2 inch collets are usefull but I would suggest getting primarily 1/2 inch carbide bits as the are more stable.
There are many sites that have done reviews. Some such sites are:
http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking ... cessories/
http://www.woodmagazine.com/dgroups/ind ... 814f521765
http://www.finewoodworking.com/ToolGuid ... x?id=24090
(you will need to take a trial membership if you don't already subscribe to be able to read the article)
Take your time and read, but don't forget to feel. Good luck in your search.
Regards,
Joe
New Jersey
1985 Mark V totally upgraded to Mark 7, dedicated Drill press, setting up Shop Deputy Sanding Station, plus...
Joe
New Jersey
1985 Mark V totally upgraded to Mark 7, dedicated Drill press, setting up Shop Deputy Sanding Station, plus...
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Ed in Tampa
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Everyone suggests a kit with fixed and plunge.
Why?
I would rather have a plunge router mounted in my router table any day over a fixed base router. Most of todays plunger routers include some sort of above table adjustment capabilities.
Most dual based kits are over priced compared to buying two plunge routers one for the hand us and one for table use.
I bought my two plunge routers one a 3 1/2 horse Hitachi and the other 2 1/2 horse Porter Cable for less than $180. The only dual base plunge I would consider was the Dewalt 618PK which sold for $220 at the time.
By the way you just missed Peachtree deal on a Freud dual base router for $120 http://www.ptreeusa.com/edirect_102009.htm
Sorry I didn't post sooner!
Why?
I would rather have a plunge router mounted in my router table any day over a fixed base router. Most of todays plunger routers include some sort of above table adjustment capabilities.
Most dual based kits are over priced compared to buying two plunge routers one for the hand us and one for table use.
I bought my two plunge routers one a 3 1/2 horse Hitachi and the other 2 1/2 horse Porter Cable for less than $180. The only dual base plunge I would consider was the Dewalt 618PK which sold for $220 at the time.
By the way you just missed Peachtree deal on a Freud dual base router for $120 http://www.ptreeusa.com/edirect_102009.htm
Sorry I didn't post sooner!
Ed in Tampa
Stay out of trouble!
Stay out of trouble!
Hi,
A lot depends on what you want to do with a router. If you want to spin big 3-1/2" bits you need a hefty router with lots of power and variable speed. If you want to make signs you want something small and light, and with a plunge base most likely. If you think you are going to want to put it in a OPR then think of something with a round body that will fit it.
To be honest I've lost count now, but, I think I have at least a dozen routers. I still have the original 1/4" single speed Craftsman I got in 1976 all the way up to the Trend T4 I got this spring.
Router are really something that is person tool and needs to fell good in your hands and operate with you. It also helps once you pick a brand that you try to make use of exchanging accessories within the brand or with a brand that matches. As an example when I got my first Porter Cable 690 the guide bushing were a very different style then the Craftsman so I had to buy a set to fit the new router, same with the edge guide and other parts. Once I had the first 690 I picked up a second because it fit the same base, and the additional based (plunge and D-handle), guide bushing, edge guides as the first one. I also picked up a trim router from them for the same basic reason. Jumping ahead a ways when I started with Hitachi was because I was looking for something different and in fact when thinking I was going to buy a Bosch... that didn't happen but I loved the feel of the Hitachi in the store and I now own 4 of them. A lot of the accessories happen to be interchangeable with the Porter Cable router I have which was a plus.
I have a couple of special purpose routers that I got because of certain features they had that were not common with other routers. So sometimes that out ways other considerations. This starts to happen after you gain more expedience with what you find you want to do with your router and how you want to be able to do it.
I have the old opr set up with a Hitachi KM12V in the arm and a second in the table. I have one in a case which is the kit version (KM12VC) that I use in the shop or take with me as needed. I have a fixed base mounted on one of my Oak- Park (Router workshop tables). I have a spare fix base mount on a router plate that goes to the Jointech table on the shopsmith as needed. Bingo 4 router just like that. I have a fix base mount on my Joint-Matic that excepts a 690. I have another router plate set up with another fixed base mount that takes a 690. One of my 690's gets used for these while the other one is either in a D-handle or a plunge base for hand work. That gets us to 6 routers. I have a 3-1/2 HP router that is permanently table mounted (at 12.8 pounds + router lift this is where it fits in best). That's 7. I have 2 trim routers, one is a Porter Cable with several bases (both homemade and purchased) and is also used as a trim router. The other one is a Hitachi that I got as a special purpose router with some interesting attachments... So that gets us to 9. I still have the original craftsman which is used with some old attachments that are special to craftsman hardware. That is 10. I have an old wards router that must have been made by a tank manufacture that has a long cord and internal light and just will not die. This one I lone out. That is 11... and so with my purchase this spring of the Trend T4, (mainly for the fact it is a plunge based router and small thus great for things like making signs or other work where a heavy router is just to heavy to make it comfortable for me to work anymore) it comes out to an even dozen.
Just remember the cost is not in the routers, they are cheap enough that a well paid engineer can afford at least a dozen of them. The bits how ever can eat you up. I don't have a good count on how many I have but it is over 300. Now some bit are cheap and some are expensive so lets go with an average cost of $15... now do the math $4500.
If you want a general purpose router for mostly hand work do a little hands on at a couple of stores, pick one with at least the following:
10 to 12 amps
1/4" and 1/2" collet
plunge base or a combo kit with both(fixed and plunge)
variable speed
accepts standard Porter Cable template guides
name brand
If you get hooked on using a router you can expect to have several with in short while and those you will get because you know what you want which is the way it should be.
If I had the money I get at least 2 more routers this year but as it is they are not even making next years list....
I did a few write ups at the routerforums, one was a review of the Hitachi router and another was something like new router my way... you should be able to find it my adding reible and site:http://www.routerforums.com to your google search.
Ed
A lot depends on what you want to do with a router. If you want to spin big 3-1/2" bits you need a hefty router with lots of power and variable speed. If you want to make signs you want something small and light, and with a plunge base most likely. If you think you are going to want to put it in a OPR then think of something with a round body that will fit it.
To be honest I've lost count now, but, I think I have at least a dozen routers. I still have the original 1/4" single speed Craftsman I got in 1976 all the way up to the Trend T4 I got this spring.
Router are really something that is person tool and needs to fell good in your hands and operate with you. It also helps once you pick a brand that you try to make use of exchanging accessories within the brand or with a brand that matches. As an example when I got my first Porter Cable 690 the guide bushing were a very different style then the Craftsman so I had to buy a set to fit the new router, same with the edge guide and other parts. Once I had the first 690 I picked up a second because it fit the same base, and the additional based (plunge and D-handle), guide bushing, edge guides as the first one. I also picked up a trim router from them for the same basic reason. Jumping ahead a ways when I started with Hitachi was because I was looking for something different and in fact when thinking I was going to buy a Bosch... that didn't happen but I loved the feel of the Hitachi in the store and I now own 4 of them. A lot of the accessories happen to be interchangeable with the Porter Cable router I have which was a plus.
I have a couple of special purpose routers that I got because of certain features they had that were not common with other routers. So sometimes that out ways other considerations. This starts to happen after you gain more expedience with what you find you want to do with your router and how you want to be able to do it.
I have the old opr set up with a Hitachi KM12V in the arm and a second in the table. I have one in a case which is the kit version (KM12VC) that I use in the shop or take with me as needed. I have a fixed base mounted on one of my Oak- Park (Router workshop tables). I have a spare fix base mount on a router plate that goes to the Jointech table on the shopsmith as needed. Bingo 4 router just like that. I have a fix base mount on my Joint-Matic that excepts a 690. I have another router plate set up with another fixed base mount that takes a 690. One of my 690's gets used for these while the other one is either in a D-handle or a plunge base for hand work. That gets us to 6 routers. I have a 3-1/2 HP router that is permanently table mounted (at 12.8 pounds + router lift this is where it fits in best). That's 7. I have 2 trim routers, one is a Porter Cable with several bases (both homemade and purchased) and is also used as a trim router. The other one is a Hitachi that I got as a special purpose router with some interesting attachments... So that gets us to 9. I still have the original craftsman which is used with some old attachments that are special to craftsman hardware. That is 10. I have an old wards router that must have been made by a tank manufacture that has a long cord and internal light and just will not die. This one I lone out. That is 11... and so with my purchase this spring of the Trend T4, (mainly for the fact it is a plunge based router and small thus great for things like making signs or other work where a heavy router is just to heavy to make it comfortable for me to work anymore) it comes out to an even dozen.
Just remember the cost is not in the routers, they are cheap enough that a well paid engineer can afford at least a dozen of them. The bits how ever can eat you up. I don't have a good count on how many I have but it is over 300. Now some bit are cheap and some are expensive so lets go with an average cost of $15... now do the math $4500.
If you want a general purpose router for mostly hand work do a little hands on at a couple of stores, pick one with at least the following:
10 to 12 amps
1/4" and 1/2" collet
plunge base or a combo kit with both(fixed and plunge)
variable speed
accepts standard Porter Cable template guides
name brand
If you get hooked on using a router you can expect to have several with in short while and those you will get because you know what you want which is the way it should be.
If I had the money I get at least 2 more routers this year but as it is they are not even making next years list....
I did a few write ups at the routerforums, one was a review of the Hitachi router and another was something like new router my way... you should be able to find it my adding reible and site:http://www.routerforums.com to your google search.
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
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foxtrapper
- Gold Member
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Soft start! Once you've used one, you'll never want to go back. I've always hated starting up a hand held router. Never lost control of one, but I've always dreaded the day I do. And if you've ever held onto a big 1/2" Elu router, you'll understand my dread.
I like both plunge and fixed base. Fixed base has its place for simplicity and repeatability. Not that I have ever failed to hold a plunge router down fully and securely against its stop. Not me, never.
Fixed base also works better in a table.
I like both plunge and fixed base. Fixed base has its place for simplicity and repeatability. Not that I have ever failed to hold a plunge router down fully and securely against its stop. Not me, never.
Fixed base also works better in a table.Buy any one now and two years from now you will have more than one router.
Porter Cable makes routers that set standards. The 690 is the base model and I would start with that one. Get to know it, feel it, work it and you will return to it like a cat to catnip.
If you are moving large wood, like making raised panels etc, get another router, preferably by Porter Cable, but the above opinions all apply. The DeWalt 618 and 621 are also seriously good for heavy duty work.
Be careful as it is a most dangerous tool and focusing is a real project with something that powerful. Next to a Shoprsmith it is The Most Versatile in your power equipment.
Porter Cable makes routers that set standards. The 690 is the base model and I would start with that one. Get to know it, feel it, work it and you will return to it like a cat to catnip.
If you are moving large wood, like making raised panels etc, get another router, preferably by Porter Cable, but the above opinions all apply. The DeWalt 618 and 621 are also seriously good for heavy duty work.
Be careful as it is a most dangerous tool and focusing is a real project with something that powerful. Next to a Shoprsmith it is The Most Versatile in your power equipment.
Anniversary Model 505 to 520 Up grade, with Band saw, Jointer, Strip & Belt Sander, and a catalog of wishes.
Hi Gang;
I agree with all of the previous posts. The one thing that I consider when buying a router is that the collett should be separate from the armature shaft.
Some cheap routers have the collett machined as a part of the armature shaft and I consider this to be an inferior design. If a bit slips in this design the armature shaft is damaged and it is a lot more expensive to replace the armature shaft than an independant collett. Most of today's routers come with two colletts so this may not be a problem except for the real cheapies.
Bill Van
I agree with all of the previous posts. The one thing that I consider when buying a router is that the collett should be separate from the armature shaft.
Some cheap routers have the collett machined as a part of the armature shaft and I consider this to be an inferior design. If a bit slips in this design the armature shaft is damaged and it is a lot more expensive to replace the armature shaft than an independant collett. Most of today's routers come with two colletts so this may not be a problem except for the real cheapies.
Bill Van