Rear trunnion gotcha, not.

[reible]

Hi,

Got a new to me 510 table to replace a junker that came with my basket case 510 I got some years back. Anyway, I did an alignment when I did the upgrade to a 520 and I noticed it seemed to be a bit harder to align then what I was use to on my other machine but hey I got it.

Now this was before Nick told us about the parts that had managed to sneak out of the factory somehow. Anyway I know a few people here have found that they had them on their machines. So when I disassembled the old table there was yet another wrong one. This might lead me to believe a lot more got out then a few????

Here is a picture to illustrates the problem. Notice the smaller holes on the rear trunnion (on the right in the picture).

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I know I could have called and sent it back but I figured I can handle to job and get back to the task at hand which was replacing the main table top.

For a set up I went to my second shopsmith and into drill press mode. There are a lot of ways to do this but I picked using the vice I got from shopsmith which is not very heavy duty but will work if you take your time and know what you are doing. The key here is that the lower part of the trunnion is rounded and you sure don't want to have it move while being drilled. It is also nice to have the holes square to the mounting area so a quick adjustment is in order. You might also note the extra C clamps to make sure it was solidly held in place.

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I also decided to drill dry. And for this reason and the fact I wanted to go lightly due to the vice I was using I decided to do the drilling in steps using the bits from smallest to largest. I also did the alignment before turning on the headstock to do the drill and went slow.

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After drilling I used a large bit to deburr the holes, a trick I picked working in a machine shop back in my youth. This is really a must do operations as you want this to be smooth when it contacts the casting of the table so it will allow easier adjustment. The other side of the hole I used a file on.

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The dry drilling then allows a faster clean up. If you happen to have a magnet, even one of these "release" ones you can use a plastic bag then turn the bag inside out leaving the metal bits in the bag. This is of course only one of the steps needed to make sure all the metal is gone before you get back to woodworking.

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Just another day in the shop.

Ed

[mickyd]

Good job. Nice photos. Nice set of drills.

Making chips with a SS vs. making sawdust can also be just as fun.

Is that Arm and Hammer washing soda in your last photo (the yellow box)?

[reible]

Yes that is Arm and Hammer washing soda... my box now as it migrated to the garage from the laundry room.

Ed

Good job. Nice photos. Nice set of drills.

Making chips with a SS vs. making sawdust can also be just as fun.

Is that Arm and Hammer washing soda in your last photo (the yellow box)?

[JPG]

Yes that is Arm and Hammer washing soda... my box now as it migrated to the garage from the laundry room.

Ed

Now that it has migrated, whatcha gonna do with it???

[mickyd]

Yes that is Arm and Hammer washing soda... my box now as it migrated to the garage from the laundry room.

Ed

Ed - You got an electrolysis project your going to use it on or do you use it for what it was engineered for....washing stuff.

Can't find that stuff anywhere out here. Funny how demographics go.

[dusty]

There is some related reading in this thread.

http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... t=trunnion

[reible]

The wife has been using it for intended washing purposes but since I have adapted it to a bucket of water and some iron rods... which I have now emptied for our IL winter.

A story and pictures at:
http://www.ssug.org/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=100005&func=view&catid=1&id=&id=10375&catid=1

Ed

[reible]

Thanks Dusty!

Ed

There is some related reading in this thread.

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=1769&highlight=trunnion