To Resharpen or To Purchase New

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Thu Aug 02, 2007 6:35 pm

that is the question.

A new Shopsmith blade 555958 is in the catalog at $57.59. Total cost with shipping and tax will be close to $65.00.

I have a Shopsmith Carbide Combo blade that Forrest will resharpen. Total cost, including test cut, sharpening and shipping would be $33.

For an additional $45, Forrest will redrill my Systematic for an 1 1/4" arbor and resharpen.

Is this a no brainer? Does anyone have experience with resharpened Shopsmith blades?

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Thu Aug 02, 2007 11:20 pm

No - it's not a not a no brainer, in fact my brain hurts now. If I were you I'd spring for all three of your options. Buy the new narrow kerf combo blade, have your older 1/8" blade sharpened, have your other blade bored out.

The one exception I would suggest is to go for the three pack of carbide blades with arbors. (556037) instead of just the combo blade.

Recently, I bought that package. At first, I wasn't overly impressed with the narrow kerf blades, but after a while, I could feel the difference. Especially the rip blade! It really turns out good cuts.

I have never had a SS blade sharpened yet. I do touch up the old 1/8" combo blade with a diamond paddle. Only on the front, flat surface of each tooth. These touch ups will make the blade work better for a time. One of these days I'm going to take it to the local saw shop and have it done right.

Bruce · Post by **Bruce** » Fri Aug 03, 2007 12:06 am

I remember reading somewhere that Forrest does an excellent job of sharpening your carbide blades. They even said that after they sharpened some non-Forrest blades, that they were better than when they were new. That's a subjective claim, I know, so take it for what it's worth. At any rate, if your blade is dull now, sharpening it should return it to like new performance. Forrest will also replace broken teeth, for an additional fee. I have not used them, but I do have a SS 1/8" combo blade that I intend to get re-sharpened in the near future. I quit using it because it would overload my motor, probably because it needs to be sharpened. I bought a Forrest WWII and another fairly inexpensive thin-kerf blade that I use.

Chuck, I didn't realize that the SS blades were thin-kerf now. The 3-pack sounds interesting. I've never had a dedicated rip blade.

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Fri Aug 03, 2007 1:30 am

I have my SS blades sharpened and the shop here in Tampa does an excellent job. Without fail I think the blade cuts even better after sharpening.

I'm totally satisfied with SS blades but I do intend to try an Infinity blade one of these days.

I got my blade sharpened for less than $25 I think I remember the cost at around $15. And he replaced two missing carbide tips.
Ed

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Fri Aug 03, 2007 11:09 pm

batg4 wrote: Chuck, I didn't realize that the SS blades were thin-kerf now. The 3-pack sounds interesting. I've never had a dedicated rip blade.

Batg - Thanks for your comments re: Forrest sharpening service.

Check out Page 34 of the "Father's day Catalog". There is a good write up on the Shopsmith blades. Most of the blades have alternate bevel ground teeth (points on alternating sides) The combo blades have alternate ground and one flat ground top tooth at the start of each group of 5 teeth. The crosscut blades are all slternate ground.

The rip blades have the tops of each tooth flat ground. The flat ground tops give a chiseling action. In my estimation, this works wonderfully well on oak as well as plywood. Even somewhat better than even the combo.

popstoyshop · Post by **popstoyshop** » Mon Aug 06, 2007 1:07 pm

Hi Guys,

Why on earth would you have a new blade bored to fit the SS arbor? SS also sells a 5/8 in. arbor that fits anybody's blade.

Another thing Freud, Forrest etc. all make blades that are better than SS.

Bill G.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Mon Aug 06, 2007 2:04 pm

bill g. (popstoyshop)

Can you be a bit more descriptive. You have said that you would not buy Shopsmith blades and that Freud, Forrest and others are all better.

We all know that the others are "more costly" but that in itself does not make them better.

What, in your mind, makes a blade more worth having than a Shopsmith blade?

Bruce · Post by **Bruce** » Mon Aug 06, 2007 5:08 pm

popstoyshop wrote:Hi Guys,

Why on earth would you have a new blade bored to fit the SS arbor? SS also sells a 5/8 in. arbor that fits anybody's blade.

Another thing Freud, Forrest etc. all make blades that are better than SS.

Bill G.

The large 5/8" SS arbor may negate any difference, but in general a blade with the 1 1/4" hole is stiffer than the 5/8". That is what I've read, anyway.

james.miller · Post by **james.miller** » Mon Aug 06, 2007 6:31 pm

I would think it is the outer diameter of the arbor where it tightens onto the blade that gives the stiffness to the blade. Both sizes of arbors have approximately the same outside diameter and the same width of flat area to engage the blade. I would think that they should both hold a blade the same and give it the same amount of stiffness for either size hole.

Do we have an engineer that works with this type of thing that could tell us which is correct.

popstoyshop · Post by **popstoyshop** » Mon Aug 06, 2007 8:07 pm

Hi Dusty,

Several things come to mind about blades. One is the steel itself and thathas to do with carbon content. Too much the blade is brittle. Too little the blade is soft and warps. TLikewise he balance of the blade. An example of this is the fact that a Forrest blade should ONLY be resharpened by Forrest. This is due to the fact A Forrest blade is balanced by hand by a man with a hammer. They are the only people who can do it like it was done on the new blade. Likewise the Freud blade is computer balanced and laser cut to reduce vibration. Another big thing is the amount and hardness of the carbide tooth insert. This is one of the things that high price buys you. The harder carbide the longer between sharpenings. The thicker the more times it can be sharpened. The part of the arbor that helps reduce vibration is the flange collar and this is the same on both of SS's arbors. I have 3 of the large hole arbors, but I keep most of my blades at 5/8 inch so I can move them between my SS and my table saw.

I sell power tools and woodworking supplies. Our store carries Bosch and Freud blades. We don't carry the rolls Royce of saw blades the Tenryu. This is a super high quality Japanese saw blade from the people who once made samurai blades. It cost a bundle but it's worth every penny.

Bill G.

Shopsmith Forums